Oil filter for Synthetic

I’m switching to 5w30 synthetic on my ‘06 DC. Was looking at rock auto to order a filter. Looks like there are filter specific to synthetic oils.
Should I order one of those or doesn’t it matter?

thx

 

Doesn’t matter. Any good filter will work fine with conventional or synthetic. Any garbage filter will be equally as poor at filtering conventional as synthetic.

 

Yup, filters are not synthetic specific.

 

Use Toyota filter - reasonable price at Walmart.

 

You can get an OEM oil filter from Walmart or the dealer, the dealer will be slightly cheaper but only by $1 each. I usually just buy a case from the dealer

 

What brand is OEM. Headed to walmart soon….

thx

 

Denso
Box is red;

$32 Toyota 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

Toyota 90915-YZZD3

 

Toyota

 

I picked up a box of the oem’s for 40.00 for a case of 10 from my local dealer.

 

Many online parts are doing 25% off.
I buy only the TRD oil filters and only during these sales... Best filter and best price. I usually pick up 6@ a time.

https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/

https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/search?search_query=90915-YZZD3

 

Toyota OEM filter is da best. Buy it in bulk and keep on saving a buck or 2. or but it from Walmart almost the same cost.

 

What makes the OEM filter the best? AMSOIL makes the best oil and their filters are ranked in the top 5. If OEM is the best please let me know. Gonna do an oil change soon.

 

Most of us simply use the OEM Yota filter. In my case now, a Nissan filter. As mentioned, grab a few at Wally World or hit up your Yota dealer. Best is relative.

 

In all honesty who ranked AMSOIL the best? For me personally it’s not about the best (which is very subjective to say the least) but what works reliably without fail…hence OEM parts. I learned my years ago to stick with OEM parts ALWAYS when it comes to Toyotas and Hondas. A few good mechanics I have had over the years have also given me the same advice.

 

I'm in the NEK. When temps fall to bone chilling temps, AMSOIL maintains it's viscosity. My mechanic only uses AMSOIL for this reason. He also said it doesn't leave as much gunk in the engine when he compares engine flushes against other oils.

Since I want to do my own oil change (0-20) I have been looking at Liqui Molly, AMSOIL and M1. Looking for a great filter in the meantime.

 

Amsoil doesn’t make oil filters they don’t even make their own oil there are only a few companies that process base oil ( shell, chevron and Mobil) that is sold to blending companies. Companies such as Amsoil will give their minimum requirements to the blending companies they have contracts with than is sent to Amsoil for distribution

As long as you do oil changes when you should you will be good there is very little difference between brands

 

I know they purchase the Synthetic, the additives and blending are done by other companies and in-house as stated on the bottom of the bottle. It's still a top-notch synthetic. It's that "little difference" (blending and additives) that matter. If it means less internal wear/tear then I'd spend the extra amount. Their website lists an oil filter for my truck. It also lists a Wix filter. So, I would imagine that is the company whos making their filters. It's not "the same" filter though. I don't mind spending more on a fluid change knowing I was using a product that exceeds many testing standards. I'd rather use it than a $2 brand.

 

Not that oil has ever been discussed on this board, but I believe you will be hard pressed to find any examples of a Tundra (presumably 5.7) engine failure that was due to an oiling problem when oil and filter changes were performed at reasonable intervals.

I, like many others in here and throughout the world, am using OEM filters that I ordered on Amazon for ~$6 per filter and synthetic oil that I order through Costco for $16 per 5-quart jug when it’s on sale. I have 158,000 miles on my 2018 and it’s still sounding and performing perfect.

I’m all for good fluids and filters, but these are pretty simple and dumb engines. You’re not looking at an F1 engine here…. Feed it good oil and use good filters. More importantly, do it regularly. 5,000 miles is the standard interval.


You’re welcome to buy whatever oil and filters you’re comfortable with, but realize many of us will quietly sit back and shake our heads! lol. Just kidding you. Buy whatever you like. You’re not gonna hurt the truck.

 

Show me an engine that failed because of the oil or oil filter used, so long as that engine was properly maintained, I will wait. Show me a test done on similar engines for lets say 500k with different oils and see which one had less wear, I will also wait for that report. Point is, you can use a $8 dollar oil or a $20 dollar oil on 2 identical engines and neither one will fail because of the oil used. This has been beat to death already, plenty to read on the subject, here and on the web.

 

Synthetic Filters usually have a synthetic media and are built to cope with the longer oil change intervals enabled by synthetic oil. They can hold more crap before they plug up basically.

if you still intend to change the oil every 3000 or 5000 miles then it won’t matter. It’s more for when you plan on running a filter 15000-20000 miles.

 

No it’s not. Toyota filters are actually pretty poor at filtering in all the testing I have seen.

Fram Ultra or Endurance as well Amsoil and Purolator Boss are the top filters.

 

Got any data? Links? Genuinely curious... I've seen a few random tests but all had some bias built in, or a weird test scenario that didn't really make sense in the real world.

 

My Blackstone results using M1 0w-20 and factory filter at nearly 5k miles with heavy towing.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/turbo-charging-a-tundra.115951/page-32#post-3562089

 

Really

 

Just watched a couple test vids. Not sure about the methodology, but the Toyota OEM filter did not do well at the dust filtration test. Flow rate was great though. Maybe a bad pressure relief valve setup? Can’t believe the filter media is that much worse. Would rather see the test back to back in real world usage to see the difference in filtration in a normal scenario and not on someone’s oil analysis frankenbenchtester.

 

Dust? lol.

 

Have to watch the video for the test methods. Engines ingest dust and debris through the air intake. First pass at filtering those out is a quality air filter. Whatever gets passed gets into the intake manifold and passes into the cylinders when intake valves open. Then after combustion they are either burned up, exhaled through the exhaust, or get into the oil via the cylinder walls getting squeegeed by the rings and swept into the crank case. In the test, they pour straight dust into the oil tester and let the filters do their thing. The Toyota filter did very poorly at this. Not a real world scenario, more a capability test for the filter medium. Except it’s not a controlled experiment and we don’t know if the bypass valve is opening on the Toyota (which has a unique bypass design compared to the others) during the test scenario. Also not sure the test scenario is anywhere close to typical operating conditions.

 

Lots of 300k-1 million mile Tundras running around out there, and I bet the majority of them are using the stock oil filter. That’s all I’ve ever used on any Toyota vehicle, the engines were designed for that filter. Are there better options? Maybe, but I just have to much stuff going on in life to be deep researching some things. Let us know what you find out!

 

I run the oversized Mobil M1-301 filter on my FGT. Get an extra 0.5 qts of oil in it that way too. Change annually due to not driving many miles anymore.

 

But you had time to make this post.