Normal Battery Draw with Factory alarm question

In the winter months, I sometimes find a dead battery and was wondering if any of you Tundra "Gurus" might know what the spec Amps or mA draw (even better) would be on a 2003 Tundra just sitting and minding it's own business would be. It has a factory alarm so that pulls something. The pricey dealer blamed my aftermarket radio and wouldn't tell me. My local radio installer says "Your radio isn't the culprit". I need to chase it down with a multimeter but don't know the baseline draw. Any experts out there know by chance?

 

Make sure you have the group 27? battery, not 24f. The v8 (if that’s what you have) needs the larger battery. That will not completely solve your problem, maybe give you a week. So if it sits longer keep it on a trickle charger.

Edit: yes something with the factory alarm, you have my vote in that.

 

Last time someone mentioned that I remember reading 50 mA max draw for our Tundras.

I haven’t verified it myself.

 

It's likely not the factory alarm *if* you only had the TVIP RS3000 or RS3200 system. But some dealers added on a piggyback shitwad system (KARR, SECURIKEY+) which caused boatloads of problems.

Are you aware of how to test for draw?

 

Delandshark - Pretty sure my batteries weren't the problem but that's good to know. The battery now is a Toyota battery I bought through parts and thought this was already solved. Need to check that. Appreciated.

Jack McCarthy - Noted. I actually called Toyota this afternoon figuring they could just look it up and got nowhere. Now I'm here asking the experts that know as much and more. Thanks for that. Does yours also have the factory alarm too?

Thanks guys.

 

Hey Shifty - To be totally honest you lost me as to what I have as far as alarm but I assume it's factory. It works with the factory FOB. And as for as draw, I assume I'd go between the battery and vehicle to test that. The rest would be working on fuses in the panels by connecting to the fuses or pulling them all and adding them to see what changes after that. I don't think I had a piggyback added but I'm wide open for thoughts. The original factory draw would be ideal to know what I'm actually looking for. I have the original sticker from the dealer but doubt it lists the part number on the alarm. Sounds like you've been aware of some options on the offers for what were options. Would you mind explaining those and what you think is the best way to test? Thanks for your input.

 

I have the VIP RIS3000. Everyone after 2002 has one built-in (minus the glass breakage sensor and alarm led), it just needs to be activated. I got mine activated at one time but decided to upgrade to an aftermarket one for better coverage.

 

Start at 6:45 for testing for bat battery, bad-cells-wise. It won't cover battery health/CCA, but it'll at least ID whether a cell is going out/already out.

Start at 18:40 to cover parasitic draw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC--MLNIbik