Non JBL factory amp bypass

I’ve done away with the stock HU a couple years ago and installed an Alpine ILX-407 and just ran the factory speakers. I now have one blown and want to replace all of the speakers. I am reading that I will have trouble with the factory amp. I’ve looked and near as I can tell harnesses are available to accomplish this, but all have bare ends to add an aftermarket amp. I’m not interested in adding another amp, I simply just want to bypass the factory one and power the speakers with the HU. What are my options? Buy the bypass harness and connect the wires together?

 

The dash speakers are powered off of the head unit. The door speakers run through the factory amp as you already know. What are you reading that is telling you that you will have trouble? I have never heard of that. Contact James @tech12volts. He is one of the audio gurus for our trucks.

 

All you need to do with the aftermarket amp harness (AutoHarnessHouse.com Factory Amp Upgrade Harness

$18 AHH-4438 2010-2019 Toyota Tundra (w/o JBL Audio) AutoHarnessHouse.com Factory Amp Upgrade Harness AHH-4438

AHH-4438) is splice the wires together. LR+input to LR+output, LF+input to LF+output, etc... terminate the ground, power, accessory wires, and plug in the harness. Now, you've bypassed the amp. There's a pinout on the forums and provided with the harness as well that will show you how to do this.

 

Awesome! That’s what I needed. Thank you

 

Yes, this.
Should have been done when they/you installed the after-market HU.

@BigdaddyII Just connect the speaker inputs to the amp to the speaker outputs of the amp and bypass it..
I have an easy to read diagram somewhere that can help you, it might be tonight before I can post it up.

I'll find it when I get off work tonight.

 

Yessir, this is what I was thinking, just wanted clarification. I installed the HU and didnt know anything about an amp at that time. Frankly, I didnt know anything about it until I started looking around searching posts about replacing speakers yesterday. I thought because its non JBL that I didnt have an amp I guess.

I did order the harness linked above already and will get to work on it as soon as it comes in. Truck is down for rack and pinion replacement so it may be next week before I cant get to removing amp and installing speakers. I appreciate any literature you can share.

 

The color scheme of the diagram I wanted to post from the 2014 is different that your 2018.
The old diagram I had was for the 2014.

Here is a wiring diagram for your 2018.

Just connect the appropriate output from the HU into the amp to the correct amp speaker output from the amp, bypassing the amp.
Make sure to keep the speaker's popularity in order.
Remember all 3 dash speakers come straight from the HU so there is no way to fade the dash from the front doors.
This is why after installing 2-way components in my DC front doors, I disconnected all the dash speakers.

Front Speaker Set is left and right dash, Stereo Component Speaker Assembly is the center dash, all 3 run off the HU

Front NO. 1 is your front door speaker
Rear speaker is rear door speaker
You don't have a No.2 rear speaker since you have a DC, it is the rear door tweeter that runs off the HU in a CM




J144 and J145 are the plugs into the amp that you will be bypassing.





Any doubts just line up the pin number, to the left of the circle, in the appropriate plug.
The A and B represent which plug it's referring to.





Hope this helps..

 

I really appreciate this man. I do have the CM so I would have #2 rear door speakers. I ordered a set of speakers and my plans so far don’t include using the dash wiring for the tweeters. I plan to use existing door speaker wires to run to a crossover, and wire tweeter and woofer to the crossover. Same in the rears. I am undecided what to do about the center speaker. I understand that it will not work unless the wiring it is tied to is connected to the tweeters, we will see if I miss it.

i am confident that this setup powered by the HUs internal amp will meet my needs, hell I was happy with the factory setup for a few years. If I do need a little more, I have the ability to add a stackable Alpine amp behind the HU and will go that route.

 

Okay, so I may seem like an idiot here, but the 10 and 12 pin harnesses came in and I finally have a chance to look at them. The pin diagram I received with them is attached. All speaker wires are present in the 12 pin, the 10 pin only includes front speaker outputs along with power, ground and others I assume I do not need. I do see both outputs and inputs in the 12 pin harness, so I connect the outputs and inputs together within the same harness? If so, how does this work?

 

10-pin #1: FR+ (output) connects to 12-pin #2 FR+ (input)
10-pin #2 FL+ (output) connects to 12-pin #1 (input)
10-pin #5 FR- (output) connects to 12-pin #7 (input)
10-pin #6 FL- (output) connects to 12-pin #6 (input)
Terminate 10-pin #s 3, 4, 7, 9

12-pin #3 RL+ (input) connects to 12-pin #5 RL- (output)
12-pin #4 RR+ (output) connects to 12-pin #9 RR+ (input)
12-pin #8 RL- (input) connects to 12-pin #12 RL- (output)
12-pin #10 RR- (input) connects to 12-pin #11 (output)

I use crimps, as NASA and the FAA say crimping is far superior to soldering. Get a good crimping plier, and you'll be set to plug this in an bypass the amp.

 

Look about right? Yes, crimped and heat shrink.

 

That looks about right. Plug it in and enjoy your cleaner sounding door speakers, now that you have a proper head unit powering them.

 

How did this end up sounding after bypassing the amp? I'm thinking about doing the same things since I have an aftermarket Dasaita HU.

 

I'll answer my own question.. HUGE difference bypassing that POS factory amp if you have an aftermarket HU. I can't believe I had my Dasaita running through that amp for TWO YEARS!

 

Super easy, super cost effective, super worth it.

I got rid of that stock amp within a week of getting the truck.

 

I haven’t been able to do the bypass yet as the truck is in the shop having the steering rack replaced. Looks like you’ve discovered the reason for doing it though, thank you for the update. I can’t wait to find out for myself.

 

You'll be very happy. On another note.. do you know what caused your steering rack to go out? I heard that is very expensive to have replaced.

 

Did you remove it even with the factory HU or did you get an aftermarket HU a week after you purchased the truck?

 

My truck came with an aftermarket HU

 

I bought a new rack from rock auto and with shipping it was just above $500. Labor and fluids also just over $500. About $1200 for the whole job. I said fluids because I had to buy diff oil as well for the front diff. Being 4wd my understanding is that to have enough room to get the rack out you can either drop the front diff out or take certain pieces off the engine, dropping the diff being the easiest most straight forward option.

My labor is no doubt cheaper than most shops as I use the mechanic at work. The trade off for that is that it will take longer than a shop as he does side work after hours.

 

Thanks to this thread. After market head unit and speakers. Sounds amazing

 

Thank you for this super easy to follow tutorial. I did this bypass tonight and highly recommend

 

Is this worth doing even if I have the stock speakers with an aftermarket headunit? I have the Sony XAV9500 ES from Trail Grid Pro

 

If you're still using the stock amp, yes
Bypass that thing so that the speakers get the signal directly from the headunit.

 

Could I somehow t splice into the bypass harness to run to the outputs of a new amplifier and will it bring that amplified signal too the speakers through the existing wiring.

 

I'll be doing the same. Replaced my factory HU with a Sony XAV-9500ES (55W per channel) and stock speakers with Alpine S2-S65/S69 speakers (80W RMS). Now I need to bypass the stock non-JBL amp and let the HU power everything. Just ordered that adapter and will wire it up later this week. THANKS!!

 

Should be a nice upgrade!

 

Just a quick follow-up. I got the adapter last night and wired it up using the instructions in post #10, and it makes a world of difference! I can crank up the volume now and it sounds great!

 

Nice

 

Are you running the dash/center speakers along with the coaxials in the doors?