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No power to fuel pump relay

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by MooseYota, Apr 11, 2022.

  1. Apr 11, 2022 at 6:57 PM
    #1
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    Hello everyone, I am stumped on this one so thought I would give this a shot. 2002 2uzfe, high miles, rarely an issue. Now I can't seem to get power to the fuel pump or the relay. I have checked the fuses and ignition switch. I also checked ground on driver side rail and engine compartment. I was hoping the miracle road salt snow removal had visibly corroded a ground connector but so far no luck there. I know, optimistically looking for corrosion. Damn fool.
    Anyway, if anyone has any insightful suggestions I would be grateful.
    Thank you.
     
  2. Apr 11, 2022 at 7:05 PM
    #2
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    When are you checking for power? Key on engine off or while cranking?
     
  3. Apr 11, 2022 at 7:08 PM
    #3
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    Key on, engine off.
     
  4. Apr 11, 2022 at 7:10 PM
    #4
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Toyota's of these years don't prime the pump when you first turn the key on, the fuel pump starts once the engine is cranking then if the engine starts it keeps running the pump. Need to check while cranking.
     
    Aerindel likes this.
  5. Apr 11, 2022 at 7:13 PM
    #5
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    Oh, good to know. Thanks. One thing to add to this equation is that I replaced the fuel pump about 6 months ago with a cheap one from autozone. I knew better but it was what I could afford at the time. Likely culprit.
     
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  6. Apr 12, 2022 at 5:13 AM
    #6
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Assuming for a moment it's not the fuel pump, have you physically checked the 15 A EFI No. 1 fuse in EG Bay. There is also a resistor in EG Bay that has been known to cause issues especially on rusty buckets that come thru here. If it's bad, your fuel pump motor won't work. You can unplug the below resistor and jumper the 2 pins of that harness that heads to the fuel pump to eliminate the resistor as a problem.

    Resistor.jpg
     
    Kimosabe, des2mtn and shifty` like this.
  7. Apr 12, 2022 at 7:21 PM
    #7
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    In this area.
    Screenshot_20220412-221901_Gallery.jpg
     
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  8. Apr 14, 2022 at 5:02 PM
    #8
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    Thank you for the help. It seems like the pump is working, well it at least has a buzzing sound when engine stops cranking.
    There is a pretty loud buzzing sound coming from the throttle body motor. I recently cleaned the throttle body with it intact just using cleaner and rag/toothbrush. Could something in the motor or throttle position sensor area clogged enough to prevent starting? Or is the buzzing sound normal? I have never noticed it.
     
  9. Apr 14, 2022 at 5:30 PM
    #9
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Have you tried pumping the accelerator pedal a bit while cranking?
    Try disconnecting the battery for a while too. May need to relearn idle now that it is clean.
     
  10. Apr 14, 2022 at 5:34 PM
    #10
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    It was running after I cleaned it, like 10 miles or so. Then died. I have tried both things you mentioned. It cranks but no start.
     
  11. Apr 14, 2022 at 5:39 PM
    #11
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Weak fuel pump then maybe? Dirty injectors? You're stepping out of my realm of expertise. I think others have said there is not hook up to check fuel pressure so I'm not sure how to go about that.

    Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in soon.
     
  12. Apr 14, 2022 at 5:44 PM
    #12
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    Copy, thank you. From my understanding you have to replace fuel filter with pressure testing equipment. I might be wrong though.
     
  13. Apr 17, 2022 at 7:05 AM
    #13
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    Turns out to be the timing belt is badly in need of replacement. Missing a couple teeth. Going to swap that and all the other items with it and pray for the best. 247k, original done at 125k and mechanic said looked like new. This one didn't come close to same quality. I hope I am lucky enough to try to stick to the recommended schedule on this one.
     
  14. Apr 17, 2022 at 7:07 PM
    #14
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Get OEM or Aisin brand (OEM manufacturer). Aisin kit is on Rockauto. Don't let them put the cheap stuff back in it.
     
    MooseYota[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  15. Apr 17, 2022 at 7:16 PM
    #15
    MooseYota

    MooseYota [OP] New Member

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    I am in the process, tore it open today. Going to use the Aisin kit. Fingers crossed, but pretty straight forward really. Just a matter of being organized and keeping parts togather. Belt was gates, which I have read is okay. In this case it made it almost 110k. Belt broke at idle but pulleys move with compression so hope valves are safe. I'll update when I finish in a few days. Thanks for your help.
     
  16. Oct 30, 2024 at 1:11 PM
    #16
    Mikewill91

    Mikewill91 New Member

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    How’d the timing belt job go for the crank no start I’ve been dealing with the same issue for awhile intermittently. I get it to start with some starting fluid in sprayed into my cold air intake and just replaced my fuel pump with a yota one and now the truck won’t start will for just a second before dying with the starting fluid. Looking for some info if anyone has had an issue like this and if this could be a timing belt issue I’m experiencing truck has 260k and the timing belt and water pump was replaced at 189k.
     
  17. Oct 30, 2024 at 1:18 PM
    #17
    Mikewill91

    Mikewill91 New Member

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    How’d that t belt job go for you and did it solve the crank no start?
     
  18. Oct 30, 2024 at 3:17 PM
    #18
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

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    Check your crank position sensor wiring. Look for nicks, because it wasn't routed properly.
    Fuel Pump Relay is another to test - don't just replace it.
     
  19. Oct 30, 2024 at 5:35 PM
    #19
    Mikewill91

    Mikewill91 New Member

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    Thank you I tested the relay that was good I’ll be looking at wire tomorrow.
     
  20. Oct 30, 2024 at 5:54 PM
    #20
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

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    There’s a PDF* with the fuel system circuit on here, and links to videos to helping test fuel delivery. I’m on mobile still be tough to pull them up. Gaggle of fuel delivery help posts on this subforum.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2024 at 7:02 AM
  21. Oct 30, 2024 at 7:11 PM
    #21
    Mikewill91

    Mikewill91 New Member

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    I appreciate it! seems to be a fuel delivery issue I’m experiencing or possibly an electrical problem with that system. If you have an idea of a specific thread on here I could find that psf with the fuel system circuit that would be very helpful I was browsing them but no luck finding it yet.
     
  22. Oct 31, 2024 at 7:04 AM
    #22
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

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    (see signature for truck info)
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/p1125-and-p1128-on-a-crank-no-start.145745/#post-3657194

    And also

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/no-fuel.144767/#post-3636447

    And also

    https://www.tundras.com/attachments/fp-pdf.978845/
     
  23. Oct 31, 2024 at 3:43 PM
    #23
    Mikewill91

    Mikewill91 New Member

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  24. Oct 31, 2024 at 4:28 PM
    #24
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

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    Check my last link. It shows you the entire fuel pump circuit and what’s involved with getting fuel pumping.
     

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