No power passed 55mph

So I've had this truck for a little over a year. It's exclusively for moving things so I don't drive it much. The entire time I've had it it won't go passed 55-60 mph.

Things I've changed radiator, serpentine belt, battery, ignition coils, spark plugs.

Things I know valve cover gasket, check engine is on, brake light is on. Engine light reads knock sensor. I've refilled the brake reservoir and the light went away and now has come back. After changing my ignition coils and spark plugs the oil reads high instead of low and it won't tell me temperature anymore.

Honestly at this point I'm about done with this truck, it was a hobby and haul truck but I just don't have time or space to fix the problems. Is there a limp mode my truck might be in? It's 4wd V8, if more information is needed let me know. Thanks for the help!

 

Basically sounds like you pulled out the parts cannon at that thing, fuck having money, you don't need that shit!

Is it 2WD or 4WD? (I'm asking for a reason, see my last sentence)

What codes are logged with that check engine light?

If you remove the negative battery cable for 10 minutes, forcing the ECU to reset and run with baseline parameters until it completes re-learn, do you still have the issue?

If 2WD, can you tell if anyone has touched the rear end? It's possible someone re-geared for who-knows-what reason. If they installed something stupid, it could produce the symptoms you describe.

 

Pretty much, money only pours into it.

It is 4wd, I bought it from a guy that used it for a logging business truck and let it sit for 4 years got it running and sold it to me. He said he had a mechanic that would fix stuff for as cheap as possible. He didn't know anything besides the the starter was killing batteries.

It looks factory normal as far as I can tell. I also want to specify that 0-55mph it moves well just going any faster then that takes far longer than normal. It also has an exhaust leak/clicking noise forgot to mention that.

I didn't think about resetting parameters, I'll give that a shot next.

 

Please don't. Your next move needs to be telling us what codes are stored BEFORE you clear things out.

Actually, if you want to, clear them so we know what codes it ends up setting. But it could be nice, if you don't have a code scanner, if you could run up to the local chain auto parts store and ask them to scan codes. They'll do it for free, all of them in fact.

It would be more helpful if you gave that info ahead, then reset by removing the neg cable for 10 minutes, then drive around a day or two, let it set codes again, and let us know what's there.

There's a solid chance one of those codes is the key, and for example, both upstream air/fuel (O2) sensors are toast, and the ECU doesn't know how to set fuel trims.

But we won't know shit until you pull codes.

 

I'll run the codes tomorrow to get the exact numbers. I did that a couple months back and it had 3 or 4, but I only remember the knock sensor code. I can't remember the other codes though. We did clear them and had them come back after a couple days of driving. I'll update when I get the reader tomorrow.

 

Ok, let me ask you another question. Do you have a snake camera, borescope, or similar? Here's why:

"Knock sensor code"
"Truck was sitting for 4 years"

Rats love nesting under the intake manifold. When they do, they typically chew up the wiring for the knock sensors, sometimes the starter wiring, and misc other shit. They also love nesting on top of the gas tank. With your earlier year, sometimes you can simply look through the legs of the silver intake manifold for evidence of nesting materials.

Also ...

"Truck was sitting for 4 years"

Ethanol doesn't sit well and fucks a lot of shit up. I take it you've replaced the fuel filter. If you haven't, don't use aftermarket filters. It looks like Toyota is discontinuing the filter for 2000-2004 (this is the filter, '05-'06 doesn't have any), I would recommend Wix specifically if you can't easily get Toyota brand. Avoid Fram, Beck Arnley and similar bullshit. It's a pain in the ass to change and is rarely the problem, I would only tell you to change it because the fucker sat so long and ethanol tends to jam shit.

 

Same thing as the code reader got a camera but not where or when I need it unfortunately. I'll look for rat nest, when I bought it was covered in dirt dabber nest and mud. I've cleaned it since, but didn't dig deeper than what I could see.

If the filter looked anything like the spark plugs did then it probably is pretty nasty.

 

We need the codes for sure, and I know someone is gonna come on here and give me shit for recommending this, but before you get neck deep into spending money and tearing shit apart, replace the fuel filter with one from Wix, specifically. It's the only other brand I would trust.

We've seen aftermarket fuel filters jammed up with all kinds of shit, the OEM ones flow well enough they don't seem to clog up. Aftermarket not so much.

I'll LMAO if that ends up being an issue. But the reality is, if you're not pushing enough fuel to the fuel rail, I can see it manifesting this way. I'd expect misfires (but your check engine light would flash if it was the case), but I dunno. It's a cheap expense to be 100% certain there's no fuel restriction.

 

@MakesumNOIZ you make any progress on this?