No crank, door locks don't work

Hi.

My tundra hasn't been driven for a 2-3 months. Cranked a month ago. Now it doesn't crank, makes no sound when turning ignition (both in park & neutral). Checked battery, was at 80%. Charged to 100%. Battery date 8/22. Cleaned terminals. Tried jumping, but that didn't work. Automatic door locks won't work either. Open door signal lights up with no key in. No other lights come on with key turned in ignition. Checked certain fuses based on other threads and fuse box diagrams. Haynes manual lists many possibilities for problem. This is the first time I have worked on a Toyota, but could previously do most repairs on my old Ford Ranger. I am no mechanic, but I believe the problem could be simple. Did initial check of all wires and connections: nothing loose or disconnected. Any suggestions on what I should try next?

Thanks.

 

Get a new battery.

 

That was my first thought, but I wanted to get opinions. I can't afford to try out different solutions.
Thank you.

 

You might try disconnecting the negative terminal and letting it sit for a couple of hours. Let the ECM reset. It thinks it has a low voltage situation. Maybe, just maybe with a full charge on the battery, and a reset, it might fire off. Try this before you go get a new battery. Either way, leave it disconnected for a while.

 

I will definitely try that first.

Thank you.

 

It sat for a month? Any rodent damage? Or water intrusion issues?

 

None that I could find. Nothing obvious, anyway. All wires and connections look good. Just a lizard.

 

If you've got a good battery in another vehicle you could test it out to help rule out battery. Check the terminals and the battery cables for corrosion as well.

 

Terminals and cables look good. No corrosion. I don't have another vehicle. My teardrop camper has a LifePo in it. (It had an AGM but I switched it out.)

 

Someone that can give you a jump start?

 

I tried jump starting it with a jump charger I keep in the truck. Has always worked better than jumper cables. But no, there is no one else around to try it that way.

 

Are you speaking of the open door indicator on combination meter(gauge cluster) ?

When you open the driver door does the overhead light come on ?

With no key in ignition, do your head lights work ?

When you put key in ignition and turn to ACC position only....

• Open driver door, does the open door chime/jingle make a sound ?
• does radio come on ?
• does the Park indicator come on ?

 

Open door signal comes on. No other indicators do, including radio. Cab lights do not come on. I haven't tried the headlights yet. Key in all positions.

 

Headlights do not come on.

 

I can't remember from a brochure if a Double Cab was offered with a V6, does that mean you have an Access Cab ?

With the items you're saying doesn't work from questions asked, you're needing to look very closely at the big fuses in the engine bay for sure.

Are you familiar enough with a volt ohm meter to make measurements, in particular the big fuseable links that feed numerous circuits

edit.....forgot to ask, with key in IGN ON only, does the gauge cluster light up ?

 

Yes, I have the access cab.
I looked at the engine fuses, but I had difficulty removing the big ones. I didn't want to make something worse by attempting to do so. I have a voltage probe that I can't find at the moment. But I am not familiar with the larger fuses. There were 3-4 that I thought could be the issue, so I'm not sure what to order.

I'm trying to avoid the cost of towing my truck to a mechanic - especially because I haven't found a good one that I trust in my area.

I can get a ride to the parts store to check/replace my battery. And I can order fuses. Beyond that, I'm just trying to figure this out myself.

 

edit.....forgot to ask, with key in IGN ON only, does the gauge cluster light up ?

Understand all that and no, I was not implying that any of the high amperage fuseable links would need to be removed. You can sometimes peak in the bigger fuses and see that they are blown. However, you really need access to a volt ohm meter or someone who can assist you in reading voltages, in particular the high amperage fuseable links that feed many circuits downstream but not with a voltage probe.

Checking the battery would not be a bad thing, simply because even tho it charged to 100% does not mean it's actually holding a charge.

 

I’d ask a neighbor for a jump. I’d almost bet money on the battery holds voltage but can’t deliver any current to start the truck.

 

Thanks for all the input. I am on my own with doing this. I'll either figure it out, or I won't.
Advice appreciated.

 

Update: accessed and went through all fuses and relays in the engine fuse box. Everything looks good.

Still stranded, but maybe getting closer to the problem.
Thanks again.

 

If it isn’t the battery. Have you tried shifting to make sure you are fully engaged in park? Just a wild stab. But I’m guessing it’s a battery issue. Weird things can happen with battery issues.

 

I shifted from park down to neutral and back. Nothing. I should be able to get a ride in a couple of days to take my battery in. Then, I'll go from there.

Thanks.

 

Good luck. I really hope you get it figured out.

 

Thanks. Me, too.

But I guess walking never killed anyone...

Stay tuned. I may come up with more questions. Or not.

 

Have you taken a look at fuses inside the cab ?
Have you noticed any water on the carpet of the driver side area under the fuse panel in the cab ?
Hopefully you can come across a volt meter to check voltages if it comes to that.

 

Yes, I've looked at/for all of those things. My old Ford could be held together with duct tape, if need be, just to get it down the road. This Toyota has got me stumped. I'm quitting for the day; but I'm no quitter.
Thanks again.

 

Do you not have an auto parts store near you?

Pull the battery. Take it to the auto parts store. Have them test it for cold cranking amps. A battery with no CCA can have 14v of power but still can't turn over the engine. Voltage alone doesn't deliver power, amperage does. The more amps, the faster power delivery happens.

It costs you nothing to have it tested for CA & CCA, which is what will tell you if the battery is bad.

 

Thanks for your input, shifty.

There are 3 parts store near me. I'm hoping to get a ride to one in the next couple of days. I will take a screenshot of your post so that I know exactly what to ask them to do. (Often, sales associates at parts stores don't know what they're actually doing, but they'll still try to make a sale anyway.)

Thank you.

 

Qualifications necessary to work at a chain part store are as follows:

1. do you have a pulse?
2. When can you start?

 

Exactly! That's why I try to be as knowledgeable as I can be before I have to go into one. Stores near me include: Advance, AutoZone, Napa, and O'Reillys. Would your recommend the best one that you believe I should have my battery tested?

Thanks.