No Crank, Click, No Start (the Click Clique?)

I know there's several threads here already I've read through, I just wanted to get the group's input on if I'm potentially missing anything before replacing the starter (or, more likely, bringing/towing it in to have the starter replaced).

It refused to start (just the click) for the last couple of weeks. I got it started this past Saturday morning - let it run for a bit (no problem). Started it again and moved it around the driveway to attach my trailer to go pick up some stuff. Went back out to leave and only the click again. FML :|

-Battery tested good (both on my charger, tester and Autozone tester)
-Will start randomly after sitting for a few days
-Battery checks out at 12v+
-Interior lights kind of die when trying to start
-No codes (saved or pending, according to my reader)
-Jumped the starter relay to no avail (just the same click)

The only thing that gives me pause (aside from the $1,400 to replace it) is the interior lights going out when starting, despite 12v+ on the battery. Last time it was running it was 14.1v tested in the driveway, but when actually on the road it dropped to 13-13.1v indicated on my interior voltage meter (it typically has read high 13s in the past).

Just looking for the group's vast knowledge to see if there's anything I might be missing. The only other option IMO is the wiring/ground? But I don't know how likely that is. In order to get under it I may need to remove the running boards (aftermarket) and/or bull bar (came with the truck and is rusty as <rhyme it!> but it protects from things like deer, potentially).

 

Voltage is not the end all be all test for a battery. Needs to be load tested. Need to check the battery cables and terminal connections

 

"-Battery tested good (both on my charger, tester and Autozone tester)"

What else would you suggest? My tester indicates healthy, Autozone's tester indicates healthy.

 

Get the wife or someone to try and start the truck, while that’s happening smack your starter with a hammer or big ratchet; not enough to dent but enough to wake it up

if it starts after you do that then it’s the starter; even if it doesn’t crank after smacking it, the starter can still be bad, but now you’re in electrical diagnostic territory and I’m not sure how comfortable you are with thag

 

Battery cables, grounds and terminal connections

 

To get to the starter, I basically have to do all the things that are needed to replace the starter anyway, from what I've read? Any tips for simplifying this? At that point...I may as well try and replace it myself if need be.

 

Everything at the battery is good, I cleaned them up a couple of years ago and added on some anti-corrosion rings and fluid (NOCO). The rest are something I'm considering, I'd need to get under there to track them down. I haven't found any videos on actually doing that, just posts. How many ground points are there that I can easily track? I think 3, including the obvious one on the fender?

 

What motor do you have?

 

2011 Rock Warrior with the 5.7, 4WD, double cab.

 

Are you jumping the correct points on the relay. If it's not at 200-210k, I would probably rule out the starter...
I would readjust the steering wheel while turning the key until it starts and lock it in place.

 

It gives me the same click when I jumped it. I'll give it a whirl tonight... You basically mean just turn the wheel around to see if it starts?

 

Unlock the telescope/tilt and move it up/down and in and out

 

What would that do?

 

From memory it’s accessible from the passenger side wheel well, take a long extension and hammer and hit it while trying to start

 

If a wire ia broken, keep it in contact.. I believe that is my problem since I rarely have fail starta now.

 

When you turn the key does it go through a start cycle? Sounds like it is when the lights dim. Take the heat shield off the starter, wedge your hand behind positive lead to the trigger wire and push it in. It works loose. You can get to it without removing the manifold.
Happened to me a few times.
From another tundra site:

 

Sounds like the classic case of a bad starter. Becomes intermittent for a while and then completely dies. What's the mileage?

 

the ignition switch is separate from the clock spring, it doesn't run through it

 

I'm assuming it's the signal wire.. as when I start sometimes it will start strong then sorta pause and lose a bit of power for a microsecond and finish starting strong... sometimes just a single click fail to start, pull the key put it back in and starts strong.

Edit: ignition switch has been replaced.

 

again, none of that runs through the clock spring

but you need to check your battery, terminals, starter, starter terminals and grounds- unless the signal wire is corroded to all get out it wouldn't do that

 

Had to laugh, best I can do here is the dog.

 

99.9% certain...first time doing it, but I watched several videos, tested the voltage and it does the same thing as when trying to start it, so it feels right.

 

Heat shields would still need to come off, I believe? My dad thinks it's the starter itself...I'm not so sure, but if I'm going to go through the process of pulling all those bits and pieces apart I may as well replace it at that point? I've seen videos and posts about rebuilding it somewhat in place with the solenoid and contacts. I mean, if everything passes visuals on the teeth is there anything else that really "wears out" to where I couldn't simply rebuild it (I say simply, but who knows how simple it will truly be!) where it is and bolt it back on?

 

~155k on the truck. I replace the gauges with the Limited Optitron cluster a while back, so I'd have to go back to my snap of the mileage when replaced, but that should be within a couple thousand miles.

 

I have remote start installed on the truck, so wouldn't that sort of rule out any problems with the ignition switch and/or wiring? I may have to get under the dash to take a look at the overall wiring setup for the remote setup. The place that did it did NOT do a great job with the install, cutting my microphone wire and kind of cramming everything in there makes me wonder if maybe there's something with that unit itself. It's a Viper remote start (not alarm) so it should be pretty simple, but I'll check it out. I partially pulled out the main unit last week and it looks okay, but I didn't check all the wiring/connections on it.

 

14+ years in Wisconsin weather and winters, there's definitely some corrosion going on, pretty much everywhere. The catch is right now it's sitting at the end of the driveway almost out into the street, and being new construction the bottom of the driveway is gravel for now until they finish up the roads (2-5 years, I'm told). So I need to get it to the upper part of the driveway, maybe into the garage here soon so I have a flat surface to jack it up on and get under there. I have aftermarket steps on it and they have a lower tube that means on my creeper I can get under it about to my collarbone, which isn't very conducive to trying to troubleshoot. I'll have to remove the runner, as otherwise I can just roll underneath pretty easily. There's a bull bar on the front too that I've been hesitant to remove since we do tend to have a lot of deer running around...but it's seen better days on the whole and probably needs to be replaced or just go anyway. It keeps me from easily getting under the front of the truck.

 

I don’t mean rust corrosion I mean corrosion in wires from humidity or other; but that isn’t your problem

you can rebuild the starter but the windings need to (probably) be replaced, which is taking the whole thing apart, some guys on the forum say it’s a nightmare job and others say it’s not that bad, I can pull up the repair manual for you and post it here, but end of the day the next troubleshooting thing is getting At the starter itself so you gotta decide how far you’re gonna work on it yourself

 

Signal to the immobilizer is what I mean, they will tap into the starter wire and other components, but everything else remains sorta the same.

My thought process or theory is the signal wire getting broken over time which sends the message to the immobilizer saying all is good, key is good, this is not a 1 time thing, it probably sends signals constantly back and forth. If the wire is broken then the immobilizer can stop the start process and causing a failed start, hence 1 click no turn over...

My 02 Celica has a similar issue where I get a single click no start, so I removed it's viper remote starter as well, but the issue persists. Which means its a grounding issue, the hot wire heat soak issue or immobilizer having issues. I can iverride this by disconnecting the ground cable to reset the car and jumping the relay and it will start.

The last time my truck failed to start, I got stranded for 2 hours until it started after trying multiple things to include the spare key. When I got home it failed to start again and wouldn't start, so I started experimenting moving the column all around until it started. It's been continuously starting ever since. Only issue I encounter is when I make 3 stops or more it will fail to start, but just 1 time, and especially quick stops.
Maybe something I'm over looking, bit it appears it's impacting both Sequoias an Tundras

 

I'm planning on getting out there after work today to fiddle with a few things. With the battery out, I may be able to get the wheel a bit more open to see if there's any issues with the wiring. Now that you said that, I vaguely recall hearing some slightly "springy" noises when making turns several months ago but didn't think any more about it. Maybe it's connected...or not, as the case may be.

 

Looking at the wiring from a year ago, there is not alot behind the wheel. I removed the screws of the clam shell, so I can quickly pop it open and wiggle run down wires, but I can tell you the immobilizer is behind the AC, but there is a repeater or a middle amplifier by the accelerator, then the wiring loom goes back up towards the dash/behind the spedometer then wraps across towards the passenger glove box, making a quick detour at the immobilizer behind the AC and right into the ECU.
For context top one is new ignition switch, bottom is 20 year old ignition switch. Pretty straight forward, unplug twist and its out. But you can see where IG1 and IG2 is at, my theory under a failed start is wiggle either of those wires while turning the key and see if it starts that way.