New to this forum, with questions about a 2013 Tundra

Nice to meet you forum members. My older son passed away a little over a month ago, and left behind a truck that he treasured, so I plan to take care of it and drive it very little. Anyway, this truck is a 2013 Tundra double cab with an 8-cylinder 5.7L engine that has 2 pending trouble codes number P0012, and P0022. The BlueDriver scan tool shows them as follows:

P0012 "A" Camshaft Position-Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1 (this has been a permanent code)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position-Timing Over-Retarded Bank 2

P0012 Code: The fixes from other owners reporting the codes have been replacing the engine variable valve (WT) timing solenoid. P0022 Code: The fixes have been replacing the engine variable valve timing (WT) solenoid.

The scan tool also directs to the parts replaced by other owners, found at Amazon as: 15330-0SO10. I could replaced the two solenoids, which I believe are located by the front edge of the engine cover, but still have to figure the exact locations.

Any ideas why these codes would show? The oil and filters were replaced about a week of two (Mobil 1 0W-20, 8-quarts,Toyota oil cartridge), the engine does not burn oil, nor its level low. However, I have noticed that the oil pressure gage's pointer on a cold start takes a few minutes to rise to the middle or normal. And it happens gradually as the engine temperature gage's pointer rises from cold to the middle or normal mark.

I just feel that the oil pressure should rise rapidly instead of being so slow. But once the engine is at normal operating temperature, I can turn it off and restart before it is completely cold, and the oil pressure rises as it should.

 

Hey there welcome from TX!

First. Condolences on your loss. Can't begin to imagine the feeling as I'm a father too...

As for the codes, have you also checked the wiring harness in the solenoid valve for frayed or broken connections? Could be something as simple as that....

The oil pressure is concerning. Could be a gummed up oil pump or the pump could be goin bad. Just my 2 cents.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! You'll get some responses in here, but you might want to try posting your question in the Ask the Toyota Mechanic thread, located here:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/ask-the-toyota-mechanic.2404/

 

Welcome from NY.

Sorry for your loss.

 

My thanks to all of you for your responses. And yes, thank you for the suggestion to post at the Tundras "toyota mechanic" page.

Thanks again.

Edit May 1, 2023: A problem I see with the "ask a Tundra mechanic" thread is that it is not a Forum, but a thread. In this case the "mechanics" would have to read numerous sub-threads (posted in the original thread).

But if it was a Forum, in this case "Ask A Tundra Mechanic" forum, every thread posted would be individual or different from the rest, and also that one could easily find the individual thread or post by choosing "Ask A Tundra Mechanic" Forum from the list of Forums in this website. As it is now, the only way for me or anybody else is to find the questions and answers is by doing a website search, or by bookmarking the thread.

 

I’m very late to this code P0022 and P0012 party, but just thought I would share my experience on the problem. I ran across this code 2 weeks ago. Took my truck to my most trusted mechanic, and upon inspection he determines that the cam sensors and VVT solenoid should be changed. A little over $1000 later, I can still see the codes pending in live data an oil pressure was still down a tick .After reading and researching, I went back and asked him to pull the oil filter. My mobile one filter after 2500 miles was
Collapsed and not allowing proper oil pressure. A $15 oil filter later and no more codes.

 

And $1000 later, a new mechanic

 

I am glad that at least you figured what was wrong with it. I did solve the problem myself without spending but enough for a $36.00 oil cartridge housing, a new filter, and 8 quarts of 0W-20 Mobil 1. Well, I did replaced the cam sensors (solenoids) with 4 remanufactured ones from Amazon, but these cost about $25.00 each. I put saved the ones I removed from the truck after realizing that the problems were not the sensors, but a collapsed oil filter. Last year I posted the details at the "Ask The Mechanic Forum."

I am assuming the mechanic followed the possible solutions to the problem as indicated by the code reader, something that I did myself using a BlueDriver code reader although all code readers with point you in the same direction, other than the following: Very dirty oil and passages that can clog the oil passages. The tester or reader will point to the cam position on Bank 1 or 2 (whichever may be the case as being over-retarded). In this case it is very possible that the solenoids could be malfunctioning, but replacing them did not solve the problem I was having with the truck.

That is when I decided to continue researching about the malfunction, and only after somebody in this forum mentioned that he drove a few miles with his truck with very low engine oil pressure to later find out that the filter was collapsed and the reason why. I was lucky because the next step was planing on taking was letting one of the local shops check the timing chain. Anyway, by then I had already replaced the cam position sensors.

What i immediately did was to call the dealer's part store to ask if the had an oil cartridge housing (oil filter cap) for the tundra 5.7L engine, and was told that it would cost $180.00 and it would take about a week before they could had one shipped from Seattle. But I decided to order one of the off-brand, Chinese-made composite housings from Amazon, and a the following week UPS delivered to me. The two codes above had already been stored in the ECU "permanently". A fiend of mine and I replaced the oil and filter, and sure enough...it was collapsed ( sort of a hourglass or pear shape). I started the engine, and right away the oil pressure pointer came up past the center mark on the gage. I shut the engine, to see if the codes were still there, but there were gone. I haven't had the problem ever since.

Summary: those two codes can be generated because there is not enough oil flow and pressure to flow up to the top of the engine and though the sensors. The sensors are much like solenoids that have oil passages. A collapsed filter, clogged passages, very dirty oil, etc., can generate the two codes mentioned above. The fastest way to find out what the problem may be, is to observe the oil pressure gage for a relatively smooth increase of oil pressure-during a cold start. If the pressure takes a long time to raise past the center mark on the gage (on a cold start), or if the pressure doesn't rise when you press the gas pedal (the engine RPM should be close to 1,000 and even higher on a cold start in snow country). So if the pressure does not follow the engine's automatic high idle speed, it means that something is happening to the oil pressure.

In this last case, it is easier step to take is to see if the filter has collapsed. The filter collapses if the oil filter housing does not have an oil-riser perforated tube in the middle. But lest assume that only one of the two codes instead of two code (for Bank 1 plus Bank 2), then it is possible that there is a malfunction on the cam position sensor on that specific Bank, or even low oil pressure on that side of the engine, and not at the other side.

For those who don't know what the oil riser tube I am referring to looks like (notice the aluminum perforated tube right in the center of the cap or housing). If the person who changes the oil removes the tube and forgets about it (some tubes come off, so I avoid using caps with removable tubes), then the problem will come back before you change the oil again:
Oil cartridge housing for 2013 Tundra 5.7L engine

 

Another note pertaining to the Ask The Mechanic Forum: the problem with that forum is that numerous forum members may have different problems with their trucks. It means that to find the right answer for one's specific questions, one may have to go through pages and pages looking for the answer. That's the reason why I asked about the two codes in this thread. I figured what was causing the malfunction and posted the solution at the Ask Mechanic Forum, but forgot to return to this thread and post my findings. Here is the Ask The Mechanic Forum, but I gave up trying to find my post (102 pages! too many pages to look through):
https://www.tundras.com/threads/ask-the-toyota-mechanic.2404/page-102

Thank you TundraLady for posting your solution above. Much appreciated, and I hope that it can be of help to other forum members. And remember that the filter collapses if the housing (oil filter cap) does not have the oil-rise perforated tube.

Spin-on filters do not collapse like that, since the housing is made of sheetmetal, and the cartridge inside has a tube (like a tunnel with oil passages) that supports the cartridge to prevent collapsing. The 2013 Tundra, 2010 RAV4 V6, and the 2012 Corolla with the 1.8l engine use the filter housing with an oil riser tube.