New axles and wheel bearings

Hello all. I’m new here but I’m hoping someone can confirm my job was done correctly

I replaced my drivers side axle and wheel bearing. I bought complete assemblies so no pressing of bearings etc. it wasn’t too bad. The axle was a bitch to get into the front diff but I got it. My question is: the new bearing now assembled is really tight. It turns with the wheel off but I need to use a pry bar. Will it free up? Is that normal because it’s new and packed so tightly with grease?

thank you for any response

kevin

 

Completely assembled, I mean brake caliper pinching rotor?

 

ECGS bushing might be the answer, why did you replace the axle? Might want to research the bushing and the reason for it. I know some bits about it, but not all.

 

Mileage on the truck?

 

Any photos along the way?

 

If the tire is off then it's hanging down at full droop, if you got cheap aftermarket CV axles then they tend to bind when in severe angles. Try putting a jack underneath the LCA and prop it up a little bit, reduce that CV axle angle, then try turning it.
Tip: when installing CV axles, put the truck in 4Hi so that the front diff doesn't freely spin, that way you can rotate the CV axles as needed until the splines are lined up.

 

Hey you guys. I've been working on it since 6AM this morning and it's now noon. I think I got it right.

I bought complete axle shafts and hub assemblies. When I first got it together I had tightened the hub (4 bolts) before making sure the axle shaft was bolted in place. This caused the axle shaft to have a minor misalignment so when I tightened the axle shaft nut it froze the hub from spinning. I hadnt even gotten the caliper back on yet.

I disassembled it, got everything aligned, tightened the axle shaft nut FIRST then tightened the four bolts on the hub and it spun freely. Wholly molly! Don't just watch a couple of youtube videos mechanics show. This was my first time and after three tries and pounding the shit of the axle to get it into the diff I think I got it right.

Thank you all for your quick response.

 

Yes Cruzer. I completely agree. I jacked it up under the frame and put the jack stand under the A arm to get a steady droop. I compared to the other side and it looked good. I also have a 2 inch leveling kit in the front. I think this may be why the axle wore out. I just don't like the stink bug look and I didn't think it would be an issue.

 

I got the hub assemblies from TRQ. I researched them and they seem legit. they weren't cheap but they weren't Toyota.

Well, for now they're in and I took it for a test drive and it felt good. We will see if the hubs burn off the thing.

Kevin

 

Oh. 2muchfun. 130k miles on my truck and it still rocks!

 

You should not have had to beat it to death to get it into the splines I don't think, that sounds concerning a little bit. Hopefully it works out, if not you still might want to consider the bushing by ECGS while you have it apart. You might even actually need it or a new internal bearing. When time permits I will be learning more about this issue.

 

Oh. By the way. To the next guy taking on this task. 39mm socket is needed to take off the axle nut and O’Riely’s will let you use it for free. Just a 20$ deposit

 

I totally agree. It scares the shit out of me pounding on my axle and diff with a 5 pound sledge. The videos I watched mechanics doing it seems like a common thing. One guy disclosed a trick to grease the circlip to keep the open ends out instead of the round side. That did the trick. I put the old nut on the end as to not trash the threads and it finally went in.

 

When I did the ECGS bushing install 6 months ago, during the re-install I damaged the CV axle threads bad enough that I needed a new axle. I thought something was wrong that I needed that much force to get the axle back in the front diff. The new CV axle I purchased slid in with much less force so something else was up with the old one.

Yes I had the end of the axle covered with the axle nut backwards but still screwed up the threads.

 

It shouldn't really matter, but did you mark the axle position before you pulled it out and then try to put it back in the same exact splines? Not implying that you did anything wrong, just trying to help others who might read this thread. Sharing our experience with each other saves us all $$$.

 

Indeed I did, with a paint marker. While having trouble getting the original back in I scoured the web for tips, tricks & found a few posts here, Tundratalk, etc that said "try it oriented @ 12 o'clock, try it @ 6 o'clock, etc".

 

Was the 4x engaged to stop the internal spline from rotating?

 

It was not. The passenger side tire was on the ground though. Not sure if that makes a difference...

 

I see, I think that may have contributed to your problem. Might be helpful for the next guy. Thanks!

 

Hard to believe when the replacement axle slid right in & engaged the c-clip with a few taps from a rubber mallet whereas the old one wouldn't go in for love or money....but stranger things have happened

 

That’s a great point. I neglected to mark my axle so my splines could have been misaligned. I got the axle in the diff every time making sure I could spin the gears so I assumed I had it in up to the circlip. After several removals and reinstalls it went in. Maybe I found the right position by luck?

I hadn’t thought about it cuz the videos I watched didn’t state that point. Just keep pounding and it will eventually go in.