New 1st Gen owner 195k miles too much?

I hope it's not too much...

 

Got me beat. In the Tacoma. Will take a long time to catch up in the Tundra. Had I not towed regularly with my Tacoma, I imagine it would have easily gone 400k with no major work other than the clutch. Still has the original clutch. I imagine it'll go before 400k. But...I towed with it, made it work hard. Still runs strong, but I can tell some major work is coming. Tundra I don't plan to drive to so much, and it'll pull the trailer with a lot less effort, so I'm optimistic about beating the Tacomas mileage someday.

 

If you don't manage to catch 333,333 I'll be highly disappointed.

 

I'll keep an eye out. I might have already passed it....

 

So far maintenance items have been complete are

Timing kit
Toyota thermostat
Brake fluid
PS fluid
New Denso rad
Spark plugs replaced laser irridiums
Oil changed
Trans fluid drain/fill with added lubegard
New rear brake shoes
Rear diff oil replaced with added friction modifier for LSD.
Drive line greased

I've added a bed cover and plan on new tires with new bilstein shocks later on. I've got an annoying loose change jingling sound when I go over bumps. Anyone know what that could be?

 

More than likely sway bar links.

 

If it’s outside the truck (not inside, like in the glovebox, sunglasses holder, back of seat pockets, center console, or change stuck on the floor under the carpet, or under the rear half-seat), I’d be suspicious it’s a bolt that has a washer on it, but the bolt is backed out enough to let the washer rattle over bumps.

There's a lot of bolts with washers on these trucks, though, so it’d help to know if it was before or after the work you did. Else you’re gonna be looking all over the place.


I have similar in the rear, but it’s more of a clank.

 

Yea it's definitely outside the truck to the front/under the cab. Driving me bonkers

 

Does it happen during specific times? All the time, only when hitting bumps?

Got a rubber mallet you can run around and bang on the frame, crossmembers, and other stuff to try and replicate? Have you carefully inspected all the nuts and bolts on the front end? Including the ones attaching your skid plate, if skid plate is intact?

 

Has it been there since you bought the truck? Is it subtle, and subtly annoying, or is it kinda loud?

When I switched from OEM alloys to steel wheels on my Tacoma, the OEM lug nuts drove me crazy. They've got that washer on them, and when you're on a steel wheel, the washer just rattles around freely. Of course I only noticed it around town with the windows down, but I couldn't take it and got new lug nuts.

Doesn't sound like that's your problem but depending on how quiet/loud it is, it could be something like that. Which is basically what shifty` described.

 

It's been there since I got it I do believe. It is fairly loud at speeds around town. Highway, obviously it gets drowned out. Happens all of the time. Skid plate is intact and fastened down. I just did an oil change so I made sure it was gtg

 

Make sure to buy a keg of fluid film and a mechanical sprayer. You'll need it to keep the frame and underside of the bed pristine. As you know, these frames despise salt.

 

Yea, I've got that stuff on tap. I don't drive much in the winter time anyway to be honest. I have a winter beater.

 

Ok so I've confirmed it is my driver's side sway bar link bushing bouncing around. I may as well do both. Which brand should I go with? OEM? Little pricey

 

OEM is pricey, but it lasted this long, and aftermarket doesn't. If you intend to lift or level later, SuspensionMaxx.

 

Planned on doing some leveling with some 5100s and OME springs. SuspensionMaxx it is.

 

Note there are two options, one for stock height, and one for 1"+ lifted vehicles.

Great company to deal with. Read the instructions, especially with regard to the lower cam, which is supposed to stay level to the ground.

 

Option 2: Remove the sway bar.

 

I was just under my truck because I was hearing a weird jangle in the front passenger wheel well while driving around today. When I hopped in the truck to ship something a few minutes ago, it wasn't there anymore. Super weird. I swear, I think most of my jangles and rattles are coming from these Toytec/Elka coilovers. I need to run out there tomorrow and check the collars and shit, make sure nothing is hinky with any of the accoutrements. If the collar was loose, I would expect something would've spun and I would lower on one side. But what do I know.

I guess this is the side benefit to NOT having coilovers is, you don't need to worry about this shit. There's no moving parts to let you compress/decompress the spring.

 

Does yours have 2 collars? I'd imagine it does.

 

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Oh, and I'm not a fan of the lower mount on these. The fitment of the lower shock bolt thru the bushing isn't as tight as I'd like it, and I think that causes rattle when the bushing jumps on the OEM bolt. Tolerance seems a little sloppy IMHO.

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Is it just me or maybe the way the chassis on these trucks are setup but I feel like it’s really hard on my truck to get a damn jack that’s high enough to lift the front end high enough to work on it. I had to get creative when doing my lbjs but damn this truck isn’t even lifted more than an inch

 

As of yet, I've had no issues. I bought this from HF for $229 a year or three ago. I use that to lift the truck, and as you can see in my last pic, I often use my OEM bottle jack to help because I don't have an extra pair of capable hands to hold stuff up, etc. I'll slap it under LCA's, axles or leafs, whatever I need to hold in place, or lift/lower incrementally.

My previous jack? No way in hell that SOB would've lifted this truck without at least one 4x4 in the mix.

 

That's the same jack I have, but in blue. I have to put 4 2x4s on it to lift the front enough to get jackstands under the frame.

 

Those shocks are quite a bit different than mine. Plus your shocks are upside down!

 

For me it's the jackstands. I also have that Daytona floor jack (in black), and it does great. But you really need huge jackstands to reach the frame. Maybe it's just expected that you jack the vehicle high enough to remove a tire, then have to lower it down quite a ways to rest on the jackstand. But then the truck is crooked and a ton of weight is on the stand instead of spread more evenly between the stand and the tires that are still on the ground.

Do other people have larger than 3-ton jackstands? If I set my 3-tons on the ground, truck on all 4 tires, and extend the stand as high as it will go under the stand location on the frame, it doesn't touch. Is that normal, or should I have bigger stands? 3-ton are pretty big already, but I might just still need to recalibrate my eye after living out of my truck and camper for so long, having to haul everything I own around with me everywhere.

This brings up an important question though: if the right place to jack the truck is under the diffs, and the OEM supplied jack doesn't extend far enough to lift a tire off the ground from there, what's the safe protocol? I know I've used the lower control arm in the front, and the axle under the leaf springs in the back.

 

I had to buy 6 ton jack stands for my truck. My 3 ton ones weren't tall enough to reach the frame rails after jacking the truck up enough to remove a tire. I went with the Harbor Freight ones.

 

You're absolutely right, for a rust belt vehicle, that looks fantastic! Very well maintained, congrats!

 

Weird. I typically lift from the framerail jack point, but I can also lift from the front crossmember just fine with mine. Wonder what the difference is?

That's what I did. I got the Torin "Big Red" AT46002 stands in 6ton/black per reco's of others on here. I got a good deal, picked up four of them on scAmazon. I won't use a jackstand unless it has a backup locking mechanism on it, and these did.