Need help identifying correct universal joint

So I have a 2005 Tundra 4x4 Reg Cab long bed, with the two piece drive shaft. I am wanting to get some Dana u-joints to replace all on my rear driveshaft while I have it out replacing the support carrier bearing as well. I looked on rockauto and these are the only options... am I missing something???

DANA 513301X {#13301X, SP513301X} Spicer Life Series (SPL); W/ Inside and Outside Snap Rings; Greaseable Info
Fits Rear Driveshaft at Rear Axle; RWD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft
Or Rear Driveshaft at Transmission; RWD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft
Or Rear Driveshaft at Support Bearing; RWD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft

DANA 513101X Spicer Life Series (SPL); Greaseable Info
Fits Front Driveshaft at Front Axle; 4WD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft
Or Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case; 4WD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft

DANA 51330X Spicer Life Series (SPL); Non-Greasable; W/ Inside and Outside Snap Rings Info
Fits Rear Driveshaft at Rear Axle; RWD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft
Or Rear Driveshaft at Transmission; RWD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft
Or Rear Driveshaft at Support Bearing; RWD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft

DANA 51310X Spicer Life Series (SPL); Non-Greasable Info
Fits Front Driveshaft at Front Axle; 4WD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft
Or Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case; 4WD; 2 Piece Rear Driveshaft

So are the "RWD" rear driveshafts the same as the "4WD" rear driveshafts, and whom ever wrote up the descriptions for rockauto just didn't put "RWD/4WD" for the rear driveshaft?

Also would you go with greasable or non-greasable? I do take the truck offroad occasionally if that matters on the decision between the two.

 

I would suggest heading to the Spicer website and checking there Rock Autos part descriptions leave a lot to be desired most times.

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/aut...joints/list?cat1=312&cat2=406&cat3=331&sort=1

 

Also, I’d suggest if you are not DIY to just tell your shop that is performing the work to buy the brand of u-joints that you like and let them deal with it.

The Double Cardan (if yours has one) is a tricky beast. It also has a spring and ball inside it.

IMO pay someone to do this job. We have a ‘heavy truck service center’ here that does them all the time.

 

Finding the right U Joints for these has been a bit tricky. I recently took my truck to a driveline shop and they seemed hesitant to work on the double cardan. I had asked them to replace my U Joints and called me back saying they were fine. In regards to the greasable vs non. Before it was determined mine were ok, they were pushing me to go with non-greasable. They use the Spicer brand. They also claim the "oem" U Joints are actually made by Spicer. Apparently you want greasable if you go offroad which seems backwards to me. Why would I want dirt/debris getting caught in the grease? But this is the advice I have heard and I trust the people on this forum.


Below are the OEM part #'s for my truck which is a 2002. I you go on this website and enter your VIN it should point you in the right direction.





https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/

 

The theory is after your offroad expedition you should grease them to push all the contamination out. This only works though if they are indeed greased shortly afterward.

That said I travel on dirt roads daily all year round and put 60k on my Wrangler after using the Spicer sealed joints.

 

Here is a shop fix of the double cardan. Yes it is off a jeep, but from what I am reading, they are all the same on every vehicle as spicer/dana builds these for multiple different car manufacturers.

https://youtu.be/VQl68ZbMWrM

Here is a parking lot fix if you don't have a shop:

https://youtu.be/BdN6zM1KxZ4