My next project - LED Bed Strip Kit with Waterproof on/Off Switch Blade

What do you guys recommend in terms of approach and parts for a good LED strip for my truck bed. Something that is reliable and it does not break after few months. Any personal suggestions please? Any good experiences you could please share?

 

Contact @mattgecko !

 

What are you looking to spend?

 

I've had this kit in my Tundra for almost 4 years now. Just now getting a little adhesive failure. In the past 4 years, it's been garaged ~1/2 of the time, but been in AZ and now TX, so lots of heat.

$25 MICTUNING 2Pcs 60" White LED Cargo Truck Bed Light Strip Lamp Waterproof Lighting Kit with On-Off Switch Fuse 2-Way Splitter Cable Compatible with Pickup RV SUV and More

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUE9OLM?ie=UTF8

 

One stop shop

https://mattgeckoleds.com/

 

I have kits in stock specifically made for the Tundra's.

 

I have the same ones except mine is the 3-pc kit. (Like $33)

The 2-pc is probably plenty bright.

Love being able to hit the switch and see what I'm doing, find what I'm looking for. Mine have been in for at least a year with no issues. Some people in the Amazon reviews said the adhesive was weak... I cleaned the surface REAL good with alcohol and they're still stuck just fine.

They fit quite well... I have a CM and just had a little extra wire to zip tie in the front corners of the the 5.5' bed, I'm guessing DC would use up that extra and fit perfectly.

 

FYI, I've heard nothing but good things about the MattGecko's above ^^^ & having the dual colors might be kinda' cool.

 

1 year deep with the same Amazon kit above. Still love it. Easy install. I got the 2 pc setup. Plenty of light.

 

I’m super happy with Matt Gecko kit, quick service, and its custom made …lots of experience doing these …it will work if you follow his instructions…one of my favorite mods

 

Order Matt’s truck bed kit AND his under hood kit…they’re inexpensive, and if you’ve gone to the trouble to run the wire from bed to engine bay, you just splice the bed powerline to the hood light and voila!
The hood light is literally less than 10 minutes if you’re also doing bed light…it’s super useful, especially if you go camping or overnighting somewhere…
I can walk you thru it if you need help!

Robert

 

Got a link to the shovel/axe holder?

Is it bolted at the bottom too or just in the rail?

 

What is least intrusive way to tap into something in the back and get a 12V. Perhaps the trailer hitch connector (can I get a source there) or tap into the license plate lights harness? I hate running a wire all the way to the battery or tapping into the fuse box or taping into something else. Not being lazy, just being less intrusive But I do need to keep an open mind as well

 

I went direct to the battery 'cuz I wanted constant power to the bed lights and 12V/USB receptacle, and didn't want to have to futz with turning on anything else like running lights, etc.

I think anything you tapped into elsewhere would need to be energized with another switch.

 

Can I get 12V from this trailer harness? Pin 1 & 4 should give me what I need right?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/trailer-wiring-harness.134516/

$28 CURT 55384 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Black, 6 x 3 x 9"es

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009FJ38Q

https://www.ajtnt.com/Info/7-Way-Diagram

 

https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VTU23BAM-PC.html

It’s only bolted at top, has rubber bumper on bottom to keep from scratching
Well made and simple, but if you get the entire molle panel, might be more useful
https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VTU23FMP-PC.html

 

Thanks, I like it!

I had thought about the panel but don't really need to mount more than a couple of things, and since I have a full Bedrug I like the idea of this just mounting to the rail.

 

I wish I had got the full molle, but this works fine
Got my Bedrug mat today, unfortunately it was for an F150….back to Amazon it goes

 

Running the wire was the hardest part, but not hard. You drill a little hole under rear of driver bed rail, fish it in, pull down and drill a hole in metal by bumper for ground, screw in self tapping screw, then get on your creeper armed with a lot of zip ties, and work your way forward following existing wire looms…I went over spare tire to passenger side, then above frame to front passenger wheel well and up into engine bay…sounds harder than it is

 

There's not a constant at the brake harness. Only voltage when something is on such as brakes, running lights, turn signal. Same with the license plate harness, it's only on when the running lights are on.

It really is easy to follow the factory harness from the bumper to the engine bay. I was even able to snake mine through the factory zip ties on the harness. I want all the way to the passenger headlight then cut across the radiator under the cover

 

I tapped into one of the license plate lights. You will just need to have the parking lights on to get power to the switch.