Lower control arms?

So it seems I am in the market for new LCAs, This one of those toyota/oem only kinda things? Or are there decent aftermarket options...or something more beefy?

Also, any other parts I should be looking at replacing while im in there? Got the SPC UCAs on there already. 2005 SR5 DC with 3in toytec boss lift.

Thinking I will do the lower ball joints at the same time. From what Ive heard thats one I should definitely go OEM on. Thoughts?

Thanks guys, I did some searching but was coming up blank.

 

You can press out the old bushings and press in new ones. White Line makes a kit.

It is easier to heat up the old bushings housing with a propane torch. The old ones come out easier that way. A bit smelly, but it's not hard.

Have you checked to see if you have cam bolts that are removable? Pretty common for them to be frozen. Makes the job a big pain.

 

Yeah they are frozen. Im not exactly set up to tackle all of this. So ill be calling in some support. Just trying to do a little research/crowd sourcing before I just go OEM as well

 

Are you asking if the control arms that for example, Rockauto sells are good enough quality?

I have had no issue using those parts. The are listed as original grade. The only difference I can tell is the paint is thicker on Toyota control arms.

Of course the price is way cheaper. $70 vs $170? Its a "no brainer".

I'm actually running a left control arm for my 2004 Tacoma that I got from Rockauto.

 

I'm running aftermarket lower arms that came with bushings. They've been fine so far, been in for 8 months. I went with Beck Arnley but they sent me two arms that came from different manufacturers, different bushings, different paint, different stamps. If I did it again I would probably go Moog on lower arms. The only ones I know to avoid are Mevotech.

Toyota arms are sold without bushings, the Toyota bushings themselves are about $150 per arm.

Lower ball joint 100% go Toyota. Get a pair of outer tie rod ends too, those arent as critical so go Moog or Raybestos (I ran Ray's for years and they're stamped 555, good quality).

 

Definitely the kind of info I'm looking for. Thanks yall

 

I used oem Ball Joints and AC Delco Pro lower control arms

 

That's a good recipe.

 

A few pics of the arms


Also, for the pivot bolts you might find that Toyota charges an insane amount. As much as I wanted to go Toyota on those I couldn't justify their price. I went with SPC alignment cam/bolt kits, I bought 2 pairs from Wheelers Off Road. Each pair does one control arm. I wasn't thrilled about the plastic sleeves but so far they are good.

 

I was able to buy new Toyota OEM lower control arms for like $170ish each. Bushings installed.

I searched the specific part numbers needed and searched the old interwebs. I think I bought one from Amazon and the other from a toyota dealership with online ordering. Those were the best deals at the time.

20-30 minutes of searching online can sometimes save a lot of money! Best of luck!

 

I just picked up Moog LCAs from Amazon for like $106 apiece. Am also replacing the outer tie rods and lower ball joints with OEM from Cool Springs.

Wait. I know you have the darkest of Tundras, but what Gen is it? I though you have a 1st but those look like the TC cam tabs.

 

First gen. The only TC parts I have are steering rack bushings and spindle gussets.

 

Ok. So what are those cam tabs?

 

SPC

 

Ok. I'll have to see if I can find 'em. That's what I need

 

from what I have researched they're your best bet aside from toyota OEM, but those are stupid expensive.

Good luck!

 

No, Toyota OEM are those stupid little punched/bent out tabs.

 

If you mean the dials with cams, that is SPC. I got them from Wheelers Off Road. If you are looking at the tabs on the frame that the bolts go through that's just Toyota. I know TC makes a tab gusset for 2nd/3rd gen but there is no such thing for 1st gen.

 

I mean the tabs on the frames. Those came on the truck?

How do you like the SPC bolts and how long have you had them?

 

Yeah there are tabs on the frame that kind of guide the cam washers. That's how it came from the factory.

The SPC bolts have been on since January when I rebuilt my entire front end. I wasn't happy about the plastic sleeves they use but they've worked fine so far.

 

These moog Lca probably don’t have same holes as oem for the skid plate?

 

I'll let you know when I get them.

 

Sorry I meant the lca skidplate didn’t see you had a 2006.

 

Ah. Yeah, I don't know if they even have those holes. I was going to check.

 

Going to bump this up. For those that have replaced their lower control arms, did you have to loosen and move the steering rack down to access the rear cam bolts? The bolts exit out the rear side and will hit the inner tie rod boot. The only solution I see at this point is to loosen the steering rack and move it out of the way a bit to slide those bolts out. Just hate having to do another extra step. Any other recommendations for removing those rear cam bolts?

 

Unfortunately that’s the only way.

 

Always gotta be the hard way. Oh well at least I got all the nuts and bolts loose and hopefully I won't need to saw the cam sleeves out.

 

Are the lower control arms all the same for all years of the first generation tundra.

 

No. The earlier years used a smaller lower ball joint and have a smaller taper hole for the smaller LBJ shaft. Looking at Toyodiy, it shows the change-over at build date 08/2004.

Though there seems to be some conflicting info out there on the 'nets (what a surprise...). I've seen folks with 2004 model year trucks indicate their trucks took the later, larger LBJs (but not mention their specific build date) and also seen some folks say 2003 got the larger LBJ.

I'd recommend you verify using your VIN if you have a 2003 as indicated on your profile.

 

I was replacing my inner and outer tire rods at the same time so I was able to remove them, turn the wheel and then pull out the alignment cam bolts without moving the steering rack. Either one is a pain though.

If you do end up loosening the steering rack, replace the bushings at the same time.