Lots of codes

My son bought a2006 Tundra with a 4.7 motor, he bought it off lot and it's been a good truck for the last couple of years for having 225000 miles on it. The other day it started missing a little so I ran the codes on it and came up with p0011,p0021,p0018,p0016 and some misfire codes,0300,0302,0308. The thing starts great at idle, no misfire as soon as soon as you put a little gas to it the misfire codes start. I've checked the wiring,camshaft oil control valve, crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensorl you know the easy stuff. Have no idea how long the timing belt has been on it but it looks like the next move. Never had a Toyota but heard nothing but good things. Anybody got an idea what might be going on,Thanks

 

I'm going to take a wild stab at this and say you need to check the crank position sensor harness to make sure a pulley didn't clip it.

It's not uncommon for that wire to get nicked or severed if not properly secured after working on the timing belt, water pump, or both. (example of how to tuck below driver's side cam cover if not routed properly)

You may also want to consider testing the sensor.

 

The wires looked good from what I could see, that whole area hasn't been messed with since we've had it, I did pull the crankshaft sensor out put a multimeter on it to check resistance and it showed to have the about the same as the camshaft sensor I'm not real handy with electric but with it set on one of the ohm settings it seemed to show some.

 

maf sensor, fuel pump or timing issue?

 

With all the camshaft and crankshaft sensor codes I'm leaning towards timing issue but I'll do some more checking, it would be nice to find it was something simple

 

Next thing I'd do would be popping off one of the timing covers and inspecting the condition of the belt.

If it looks brand new, I'm guessing the timing is possibly off? If you're correct and there's no rodent damage or rub to wiring, and you tested the crank position sensor (per the FSM, not the test you've written above) then that's where I'd go next.

There are copies of the FSM on this site. You may want to grab one, pick a spot to dive in on diagnostics, and run with it.

 

Maybe a fuel injector or a coil. Unplug a coil one at a time to see if the engine runs rough or same. If one is the same then that coil or wire has a problem.

 

Welcome @driver

Just curious if you happen to know:

1. When was the last oil change?
2. Is the oil level within acceptable ranges?
3. Is the oil pressure gauge showing acceptable ranges during idle and under load?
4. Does it consume much oil between changes?
5. Have the spark plugs been replaced in the last 30-60k miles?

Consider numbering the ignition coils and swapping them around to see if the other cylinders misfire.

Found these resources you might find helpful:
https://f01.justanswer.com/indy-tech/1a0da677-ecfd-48f9-8e40-5da111c92c1f_P0011.pdf
https://f01.justanswer.com/indy-tech/eaaff3ad-bb68-4783-9827-a962b56ef1ae_P0018.pdf

Also, I would suggest getting a copy of the TechStream software if you don't already have it. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=techstream+toyota

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDElMyfDxg4

https://youtu.be/KDpldAv0uQE

 

Thanks for all of the good suggestions and a lot of investigating to do, the oil has been changed when it should be, plugs kinda like the belt,no idea, the thing that throws me is clearing of the codes, starting it up it has the codes for camshaft crankshaft out of whak idle it up then you get the misfire, I'm thinking I might not be testing it right, more reading up on it.Thanks All

 

You know you can carry your vehicle in for diagnostics at any dealership, right?

I've done this more than once. Carry it in, have the pros diagnose it, then take the vehicle after. They'll charge you an hourly rate (for me has typically been 1-3 hours). Let them come at you with a repair quote, you have your laundry list of things. Chances are it's going to be really f'n expensive because it's a dealership. "Jeez, that's high. It's not in the budget now, but I'd prefer you guys work on it. How long is this quote good?" and go on your way.

In difficult cases like this, it clears a hell of a lot of guesswork. Solid chance the OEM dealership certified mechs are going to get it right. I think the only one of us that's certified here is empty_lord.

 

I don't know if "certified" is what it used to mean. I see a lot of certified people who might be good at specifics, but have trouble thinking outside the box. Im not talking just mechanics either.

 

That's an option I was looking at the local dealership said their price would be about 1250.00 if it didn't need a water pump or anything else, I believe your right they would know what's going on. We are almost 60 miles to nearest dealership,so with the misfires and not knowing whats going on it would be a couple of hundred to get towed down there and the same back, it's a spare vehicle right now so I have plenty of time to check out more options before pulling the trigger on that one

 

Oh believe me, I work in the tech/security sector, well into my 3rd decade now. You're preaching to the choir on that one.

 

Hello again, I still have the misfire problems with the Tundra but i've done a little to it this summer when it wasn't too hot. I checked on prices for the sensors, fairly cheap so I changed out the crankshaft sensor, no change, got one camshaft sensor, changed out one side, no change, switched to other side, no change then both oil control valves, no change, then found a local mechanic shop that does that kind of work, they put a scope on the wiring showed to be firing ok, called to get the ok for a timing belt change, they pulled the camshaft gear covers and set the crankshaft where it was supposed to be, looked good, and the belt looked good, they had no idea so I had it towed back home. That was about a month ago I had heard of the ocv filters or screens can sometimes foul things up, I think they are in behind the ac compressor and alternator on other side but wanting to make sure before starting. Sorry for the long-winded rundown, almost forgot been starting it up and letting it run every week or two, I let it run for about ten minutes while I cleared out enough to get it in the garage when I tried to pull it in it wouldn't even untrack itself, waited a couple days started it up still had the misfire but pulled in no problem? Thanks for the patience.

 

Fuel filter, fuel pump, maf sensor?

 

“Certified” in the tech sector is dated.

Proper terminology today is SME (subject matter expert). Get with it. lol

Not that it means anything different.

 

That's where I'm going next. Something related to fuel/oxygen/spark

Like, spark plugs, fuel pump, (it's never the fuel filter), fuel pressure regulator, O2 sensors, MAF, something that would cause the the ECM to not know how much air/fuel was going into the cylinder, and therefore wouldn't mix right, causing potential misfires.

 

I thank you guys for all the recommendations I cleaned and checked the MAF I had to replace O2 sensors on a 98 f150 a couple of years back, but it showed the codes for that, I'm still stuck on all the codes for camshaft and crankshaft problems. If it was a sparkplug or something with the gas, would the thinking be that that would cause the misfire and then that would cause the codes from original post?

 

Yes

 

Codes don't always tell you what is happening. They tell you what the computer thinks is happening. Do the simple stuff first. An engine that idles but won't accelerate is a classic clogged fuel filter symptom. This can lead to so little fuel making it to the combustion chamber that the computer thinks something else is happening. At 225k miles, changing the filter is probably good mojo anyways.

 

On 1st gens, the fuel filter has literally never, ever, ever been anyone's problem. And it's a complete and total bitch to change. Lots of people have replaced it thinking it was the problem, and replacing it solved exactly zero issues to date.

After the wild results my low-mile Gen1 saw, I'd recommend cleaning the MAF with some CRC MAF Cleaner spray. The German Toyota mechanic has a good video covering the "how" if it's interesting

 

I had some CRC MAF cleaner and used it when I pulled it out, I was watching 2 ways to check with a multi meter and letting it idle and unplugging the MAF and seeing if it dies the problem is somewhere else, mine died but that may not be the proper way to check it, I'm going to try to find that German Toyota video. Dropping the tank and changing the filter might be the next move I guess crossing it off the list think with that many miles it's bound to have had some bad gas in poured in it.

 

I can't say this enough: It's never the fuel filter. And in your 2006 it won't be, because the 2005-2006 don't have one.

Everyone here that's ever changed their fuel filter will tell you: It's a total bitch to replace, and you'll take plenty of gas to the face, and risk damaging lines. I didn't believe it after the 5th or 6th complaint, and I went to check mine, and I sure as hell wouldn't want to replace it. There's already a screen on the tank to filter out big shit on these trucks. The on-framerail filter is a secondary filter. This isn't a GM, a Ford, or a Dodge. It's never the fuel filter.

But if you plan on dropping the tank, you may as well proactively buy a new DENSO fuel pump and swap it (dont buy it on scAmazon or fleaBay, they often sell counterfeits) because it's very possibly the fuel filter. Use DENSO part finder on this page to find the right part #: https://www.densoautoparts.com/

I missed the 'misfires when you give it gas' symptom. That makes me wonder if it could throttle position sensor, or throttle assembly too. But at 225k miles, fuel pump going out wouldn't be unheard of. I don't expect anyone to have fuel pressure gauges, but dropping one in line is easy enough, just to see if your fuel pump is having trouble keeping up.

Here's that video, @driver - This Toyota-Maintenance channel is great, he's always deliberate, clear, with a good pace, takes time to explain and walk you through "why" and "what". Yes, he's not working on a 1st Gen here, but this is the same process I follow. Any time I'm doing anything new on a brand or platform I've never worked on, I also hit up a couple of videos to make sure there's no "gotchas" I might hit along the way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDgbiHe__j4​

 

Good video looks like he is pretty thorough, the thing will start misfiring just idling just faster when you give it the gas.

 

Since it only takes 5 minutes to do, I'd also pull and take a couple pics each of the 1st and/or last spark plug on the passenger side (skip the middle two) and attach them here. Those are what's tossing p0302 & p0308. It'll also allow us to eliminate the plugs (either old plugs, or wrong plugs, or fake plugs) as the problem. I presume you still have the OEM coil packs on there, or are you not sure?

Toyota calls for a specific Iridium long-life spark plug for VVTi engines like the V8 in the '05-'06, and there's been so many cases of people buying counterfeit spark plugs off scAmazon and fleaBay and it either nearly destroying their engine or causing stupid issues like this, it's not funny. Like, the legitimate iridium plug installed at the factory should last you 100k miles easily, I just changed my factory plugs at 73k miles, they still have plenty of life left, if you're near Atlanta I'm happy to drive 'em over if you want 'em

 

I'll be checking the plugs and see how bad off they are brand and such hopefully today, we're about 700 miles west of you but I do appreciate the offer.

 

They are Autolite XP3923, coils are Toyota Denso

$103 90080-19027 Toyota Genuine Ignition Coil

90080-19027 no idea if they are originals

 

First time sending pictures sorry too many

 

If I can't find my gauge I'll have to pick one up