Looking for positive ways to save my tundra after quote from Toyota

I apologize for the long title I'm glad I found this group online . My name is Chris I've owned assorted toyotas in my life and always enjoyed them and last week I saw a 2008 toyota tundra limited black with chrome nice truck unfortunately I impulse bought because of its reputation .
I read some threads and I know there is way more knowledge about these trucks here .
I live in Penticton BC Canada
I will take pictures tomorrow the truck is still at the toyota service station .
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
If your thinking maybe I should scrap it just lie thank you.

 

You didn't mention what's wrong with it?

Are there no consumer protections in Canada or in your specific province from bad car purchases? Here in the states, we have a consumer protection division (CPD) or equivalent in most states, and even a federal lemon law, IIRC.

I'm going to ask the mods to move this into the 2nd gen forum; you posted in the 1st gen forum which covers 2000-2006 years only.

 

I’m also curious what’s wrong with it.

 

Thank you my mistake.

 

I have a 8 page document from toyota I will take pictures and post it . It's alot easier them me telling you . Bare with me this may take a while ty

 

Start from the bottom up if you have he courage or time . The total quote was over 27,000 Dollars I paid 10,000 for the truck 5 days ago .

 

I think your photos got flipped upside down in the US / CAN conversion of your post

 

I'd say $17 is a decent price to have your cock assembly drained.



Joking aside, hate to hear it. Not many details, on the purchase. Second hand dealer, Toyota dealer, private sale?

Is she even safe to be on the road?

 

Maybe some cliffs notes on what’s wrong? How much did this 360,000+ mile truck cost you?

 

You impulse bought a 08 with 360k on the clock for $10k and you just got a quote for $27k in work. I literally have nothing to add, I just had to type this out because HOLY SHIT. My brother in Christ…why.

Also my guy, this is a great place to be from what little time I’ve been here, so I’m not like super paranoid, but being in LE you’ve got your name, address, phone number and your tag number for everyone to see.

 

Reading the recommended repairs again, I'd get a second opinion.

Some of those items are routine maintenance, or due for repair/replacement from mileage or age. Suspension and brake components, parking brake cables, etc. Stripped diff drain plugs, exhaust leaks, coolant change. This stuff any DIY mechanic can do.

But a complete engine rebuild? You would know within minutes of driving if your truck needed an engine rebuild or head gaskets.

 

First and foremost don’t ever take an old car to the dealer. They will give an estimate just like this one.

What prompted you to take it to the dealer anyway? What problem were you having?

360k guys… those are kilometers not miles. So 220k miles.

nobody is going to flip through multiple pages of upside down dealer nonsense. Find a local Indy shop to take it to if you’re having issues and get a legitimate estimate.

plenty of us can help you if you give us more specific info.

 

First off, OP, you got ripped the hell off if you paid more than $3k CAD for this thing, and I'd be returning it ASAP. Here in the states if I couldn't find some consumer protection law to save my ass, I'd be calling a lawyer and filing a civil suit against the seller unless you can't do that there. THIS IS WHY YOU ALWAYS GET A PRO VEHICLE INSPECTION IN ADVANCE! This person knew there was a host of crap wrong with the truck.

I'll post two sets of images. 2/3 or more is just fluff, bullshit anyone with a basic toolset can manage. They even give him the cheat codes (part numbers) to order everything.

First, you know stealerships and how they work, this is the laundry list of stuff they supposedly found wrong, although some of the descriptions are laughable, like "needs brake service, someone spray painted over the caliper and contaminated the brakes" and "liquid pooling on top of fluid in brake fluid reservoir" which sounds absurd, and even something about sweating in a valve cover? This is what dealerships do, and why we call them stealerships. They write up the worst possible, hope you'll eat it, and then if you do, they'll "find" extra problems in the meantime. But the other description (2nd image) sucks also, it sounds like there's a known transmission issue with this generation and if a known fix doesn't work, the other option is to replace (and they'll opt to replace, and say the fix didn't work, because ... stealership!)

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But beyond all that, I think this is the most concerning thing I saw, while holding my laptop upside down because OP posted most of these upside down. It looks like they're wanting to do head gaskets, major teardown work on the engine. But I know very little about this gen/engine, so ...

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I don’t have time to go through the whole estimate, but in my experience, Penticton Toyota is a dishonest bunch of crooks. Diy what you can, and take it somewhere else for the rest.

 

Sorry to see this, before I would buy a truck with that milage I would have a dealer do a PPI. Sorry to be stating after the fact, but I would sell it or trade it in.

 

You really need us to tell you not to spend 300 on hood struts or $100 on bolts for exhaust shrouds? Or not to spend $500 on a piece of crap Toyota skid plate?

water pump, lbj’s and engine stuff matters. Lots of bs here but heaps of work. You don’t intend to DIY anything? If so then you want to find a trusted independent mechanic.

at a bare minimum independent for belts, brakes and all fluids. Then diy the struts, skids and shrouds. Plan for a new suspension, some options there, take your time. Deal with the water pump and cam issues. Replace the radiator and lbj’s. New plugs for sure.

 

Some of that is stuff that is easy DIY for a fraction of the quoted price. Differential oil for example.

Almost $600 to drill out stripped bolts in skid plate??? You can buy nice extraction tools and helicoil kit to fix threads for under $100 total and maybe an hour work if you are good with tools.

If the brakes seem to work ok, dont worry about paint residue in the pads. For the stuff in brake fluid reservoir, remove cap and use a turkey baster to suck it out. Hold a cup close to drain into so you dont drip it all over. Don't let fluid go too low but you can get some out then bring back to full mark with fresh fluid. Check after driving a few days and repeat if needed. Maybe fully bleed brake lines if you feel like it.

Rear shocks i bet you could find someone's used old ones for free or cheap. Rear shocks are easy to change.

For radiator and engine work, get a second opinion for sure. If it seems to be running ok, wouldnt worry too much. Depends on why check engine light was on though.

 

Echoing everyone else, that’s a whole lot of stealership filler and inflation there.
That said, it sounds like there are some serious issues with the truck, I wouldn’t do a thing to it at this point and I’d be doing everything possible to return it to the seller, possibly right up to legal action.

Who did you buy it from, private or shady dealer? There are typically buyer protections in place for this very reason- despite living in BC myself I’m not sure what those may be as I’ve never needed them, call a lawyer if you have to, I’m sure there are plenty who can at least tell you if you’re totally screwed or not, assuming the seller won’t take it back.

 

Might be SOL unless it was from a licensed car dealer, otherwise looks like small claims court:
https://www.consumerprotectionbc.ca/knowledge-base/cars/

https://ised-isde.canada.ca/site/of...ing-big-ticket-items/recourse-vehicle-defects

 

Also, do yourself a favor and remove those pics you posted. They have all your personal info on them and you don’t want that floating about the internet any more than is absolutely necessary.

 

It's hard to believe that it's 2023 and people still go to dealerships for anything.

 

This is Exactly what they have done for him, a PPI (Post Purchase Inspection).

 

Who did you buy this from? Won't shift into 5th or 6th gear? Throwing codes repeatedly. Missing and stripped bolts, fender liners, skid plates TPMS inop. Did you not notice anything was wrong with the car when you bought it? Bad buy for sure.

 

I myself would not even post BS like this.To go ahead on impulse and buy something like this without possibly knowing how to do any work yourself is embarrassing.I find an other dummy and sell it to him.Just my 2 c

 

You need someone to seperate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak.

 

I was literally just about to write, "Looks like OP got a PPPPI instead, a Post-Purchase Pre-Purchase Inspection" because I missed your expanded acronym on the first read-thru. Nice one!

If it's not possible to return outright because of what you found at the stealership @08tundraBC, I'd hit a 2nd stealership with a better reputation if possible, else find an independent Toyota shop, and have them re-PPI the truck, and have them re-flash it as well, to possibly resolve the transmission issue.

If you want more advice here - and I know I probably won't check back in on this thread, since it's not in the 1st gen section anymore, so I may not see any - I'd recommend posting pics of the truck, outer shots from all 4 corners, inside the engine bay, and underneath from all four corners and both sides. At least you'd have several other pairs of eyes on it.

And I think the TSB the dealership is mentioning with the transmission problem is attached below. It looks like a re-flash may solve the problem, though the problem can be caused by low transmission fluid also, and it can be due to other more-catastophic failures. This may be why the seller sold it to you!!

I'm not sure if that's something an independent shop can do, so you may actually want to pay a dealership to handle that ... (Edit: I also see the TSB has been superceded and was stretched to impact '07-'09 models)

 

Plenty of ways to save money off that quote. Plastic inner fenders can be had at Amazon, along with cabin air filter. Does it run and drive and if so how well. I'd do a 100,000 mile maintenance on it and go from there. Do not pay 27,000. Good luck.