leveling kit questions concerns

hello all, I will start with my trucks info a 2010 dc 4x4 the truck is not my daily driver I also have a company truck. I use this truck to plow with tow our boat and equipment trailer numerous times throughout the summer. I currently have 95k miles i have a set of 275/70/18 it has timbrens on the rear. I recently purchased a 3/1 leveling kit to get the front end up a bit more while plowing and get a better stance as I'd like to run 295 70 28 on a new set of 18x9 +25 wheels.

CONCERNS: will a 3/1 have to much of a rake when towing heavy? would a 3/1.5 or a 3/2 be better? also I have read numerous horror stories about getting it aligned after any insight to this? also diff drop opinions? driveshaft drop? and I previously owned a chevy with a lift and it would chew through cv shafts like it was it's job really trying to avoid this... ant information would be great sorry for the long lengthy post but the more info the more help I hope it provides thank you.

 

Any dif drop is fine, but it SUCKS to do, especially if you don't have tiny hands. I didn't do it on my first gen with a 2.5" lift and my axles slung grease everywhere. The allignment shop wouldn't even work on it, so i went home and ordered the drop.
I have had alignment ships say that, without my uniball UCAs, they wouldn't have been able to get the alignment right. If you stay 2.5" or less in the front, you might be ok without new UCAs.

 

Had a 3/1 kit on my truck. Took it off because no one could ever get the alignment right.
I suggest returning your kit and getting bilstein 5100s. Or getting new UCAs.

 

I personally like the rake, especially towing so would prefer to lift the rear 1.5 to 2 inches on a 2.5 to 3 inch front lift.

 

Forgot to mention. I now have a 3/1 on my 2018.

 

I agree with both of these. I used 6112 to get 2" in front and a CB +2 Shackle to get 1.25" in back. Staying 2.5" or less up front should allow for an alignment with stock UCA and no need for a diff drop. The extended shackle came with a carrier bearing drop for the driveline.

I don't think those tires will fit those wheels.

 

i really just want to make it done right but I don't want to loose the reliability or always have to worry about changing boots or axles or wearing an expensive set of tires. I don't mind purchasing a set of upper control arms if that will be less of an angle on the ball joints and easier to align. A 3/1.5 sounds like a good compromise on the rake and getting my front end up, my kit came with a diff drop already just read about the same people that used and that were against them. I read about the billsteins up front but it was not as tall as I was looking for and more expense especially as I don't daily the truck. Im just torn as I want the front end up and more clearance for plow and larger tires however I don't want to be 2+ hours away with the boat and the family and have a shaft blow or start leaking greass or cause wear to the front differential. 18x9 +25 with 295 70 18 would pose a problem? Looking at the method wheels and want to be as flush to the fenders and don't want to so a body chop

 

If your willing to buy the UCAs, DO IT. When I had a 2.25" level on my gen1, I added camburg uniball UCAs a few months later and it felt like the missing piece of the puzzle. If you don't mind spending the money, do exactly what you're thinking. Go 3" in the front and get the UCAs, install the dif drop, and throw an add-a-leaf in the back or do shackles for your 1.5" there. You won't prematurely wear out your tires, or have to change boots or axles. I have Toytec Aluma Coilovers for 3" and MCM Fab uniball UCAs on my '18 and I couldn't be happier.

 

Don't forget the carrier bearing drop.

 

the add a leaf is a better alternative than a block? in what ways is it a better option, and at what point in lifting the rear do you need the carrier drop? any recommendations on upper control arms? how many miles on your 2018 have you put on and without any cv boot shaft problems? sorry for all of the questions usually I just go all out without researching and not thinking ahead and end up regretting it and with the family just want it to be safe and not ruin the truck

 

did you have any problems with cv boots or shaft angles when it was in? how many miles was it on for until you removed?

 

I've done these levels on 4 Tundras, an 01 Tacoma, and my dads F150. I'm sure someone smarter will chime in, but from my understanding, blocks are supposed to maintain factory plushness, or whatever. I've also read that they will cause your leaf springs to flatten prematurely and increase axle wrap. Maybe someone else can chime in with their experience. I've gone with either a single add-a-leaf, or 3 leaf AAL on every truck I've worked on. Pros: helps with heavy loads and towing. Con: Stiffer ride. I've never noticed the "stiffer ride". If anything, it feels like the truck can take more of a beating. I don't have any experience with shackles.

I've only put on a couple thousand miles with my '18, but no problems so far. Based on the other trucks that I've worked on, looking at the angles of my CVs right now, I doubt I'll run into issues.

I forgot the carrier bearing drop, but I just ordered it. Probably unnecessary though. If I remember right, You only need to do it if you feel a shudder and I've never done it in the past.

 

great to know thank you for the information I will have to look into add a leafs, what tire size have you been on with the leveling kits? I'm trying to get 295s but don't want to to a body chop.

 

2 of the tundras went with 1 size up, so nothing crazy. MY current 18 has 285/75/r18 going on this week, so I'll let you know how that works out That's a 34.8 x 11.2 tire. a 295/70 is about a half inch shorter and a half inch wider. I also don't want to do the body chop, but I think I'll be ok.

 

have you just run stock wheels with the tire sizes?

 

I've always gone with aftermarket wheels. I've done Level 8 MK6 twice. MY dad kept his stock wheels on his Ford. Current truck is getting Method MR316 with +18 offset, so they'll stick out a little more than stock.

 

+18 should look good, I have heard mixed reviews on running a +25 I really want flush or barely past the fender

 

Well I just got a call from discount tire. Headed to get the new wheels and tires in 15 minutes. I'll post some pics.

 

I have a set of Bilstein 5100's for the rear. Used for about 1,000 miles.