leaky oil pan drain plug

I just did my first oil change on my new to me but used 55k mile tundra after only driving it about 1k miles (dealer changed it b4 purchased) because I wanted to make sure it had full synthetic oil with the filters I use etc.... and that everything was how I usually did things.
I started by installing the toyota aluminum oil housing suggested by so many on this forum. The original plastic was on so tight I had a tough time loosening it but it finally gave. The oil pan plug was not on nearly as tight but good enough and was not leaking. After removing the oil pan drain plug I noticed it looked different than the OEM drain plug I had purchased along with my oem gaskets. I triple checked the part numbers on everything and figured the nissan dealership that I bought truck from or someone had just put an aftermarket drain plug on because they also used a copper crush gasket the same as I used to buy from nissan for my Frontier oil changes. Since no leaks I didnt really think anything of it so I installed my new oem oil pan plug (#90341-12012) along with new oem gasket (#

$9 90430-12031 Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10)

90430-12031) and did it hand tight like I have done for years and when I checked same day it was fine but the next day it had build up on the plug enough to drip but had not yet leaked on the garage floor. I wiped and checked next day and same thing. I compared the original plug that came with the truck to the new oem plug I purchased and the oem is just slightly smaller in diameter at top of threads. The oem plug despite only slightly smaller tightened just fine.
I guess the dealer or shop or someone along the way for some reason put a slightly larger plug in the pan for whatever reason and now it leaks with the OEM plug ??

In the morning I will drain oil and reinstall the original slightly larger non oem toyota drain plug along with a new toyota gasket. I am sure it will fix the leak after thinking about it.

Anyone else have this problem or any input appreciated.

I did call nissan dealer where purchased and they said they didnt install a new plug.

 

You said you hand tightened the drain plug, do you mean you tightened with a wrench/ratchet by hand? Because that plug needs to be torqued to 30-35 ft lbs. Or if you don't have a torque wrench, go till it gets tight and snug it up, doesn't need to be overkill, just about 1/4 turn past tight. Send a picture of the "OEM" drainplug you bought, and the one that was on the truck originally

 

Also you can pull a vacuum on the engine by taking a vacuum cleaner nozzle or shop vac and attaching it to the oil fill port, then you can take the drain plug out without having any oil leak out, we do it at the shop all the time

 

yes I used wrench and got it nice and tight but not too tight but I didnt use a torque wrench. I have a torque wrench but never use it for oil drain plugs.
the toyota oil drain plug is part #90341-12012

 

i am not able to get pics up

 

sorry for delay here are the pictures

the left side is the plug that come on my truck when i purchased used along with the gasket
the right side is the one I purchased from toyota to replace it with along with toyota gaskets

 

plug on the left is perfectly fine, some toyotas have either, however that crush washer is incorrect, it should be a black or blue felt or metal disc/washer style crush washer

 

When I bought filters from the dealer they gave me a 10 pack of the blue felt drain plug washers. I use a Fumoto though.

 

You may want to reconsider that oil filter housing. https://youtu.be/G_vl2AYe7Yg

 

Which ever cap he shows in this video is not the one recommended on these forums for our 5.7s. When I did mine the tube easily came off without the bypass valve falling apart. Not saying your wrong. Just sayin.

 

Oh no I know that, but he even mentioned that if the tube comes off your oem cap to just buy a new one because it is not meant to be removed and by removing and reattaching it you are changing the pressure required by the by pass valve. Anyone who has broken a plastic housing has done so because it was put on too tight. I've done 8 oil changes on my truck and have not had a single issue with the plastic one.

 

Well the spring is what would change the pressure, not the tube. My contention is that the center tube on the 5.7 does come off easy and that does not make the cap broken because it is not the same as the one in the video. But, I bought mine used and had to Break and Chip the old original cap off, I then tried the Dorman cap which leaked, then ordered the one recommended on this forum.

 

Hey if you're happy with it by all means. I almost even bought one of the metal ones when I got my truck because I seen so many people here getting them but I have yet to have an issue in the 4 years I've had it. Then he did this video and discussed taking the tube out at the 11:30 mark he says how he bent the tab back to purposely remove the tube and says its now garbage, never try to put the tube back in, which is essentially what everyone here did that switched to the metal housing. I'm by no means an expert, but he definitely is, so I'll take his word for it and stick with the plastic one and just make sure to always lube the o ring and not over tighten it.

 

Many years with the plastic housings and never a single issue unless I take my truck to someone else to do the oil change. Then they usually over tighten everything. Also I have the same drain bolt in my truck OP. No issues

 

Until it cracks it.