Knocking motor

I have an 03 Toyota Tundra 4.7 SR5 that has a oil pressure low that has been knocking for about a week I put oil in it every day I drove it home from work yesterday and it shut off the motor tries to turn over but will not crank anybody have any ideas what it could be I just take the oil pan off the bottom there is a little bit of shavings in there but that's it need help

 

Do you have image of the shavings?

 

Yes

 

Welcome from CO. I hope you find answers.

 

That doesn't look good

You said you added oil. Did it run dry before you added any??

 

Hate to say it but it sounds...and looks like a rod bearing. Shavings are from the bearing breaking down, oil pressure is low because that bearing is now just a bunch of metal pieces and there is a big gap for the oil to flow through instead of the small tolerance there is supposed to be.

Time to start looking for a JDM engine to replace it with if you're mechanically inclined....a rebuild if you're REALLY inclined...or a new truck if you're not either of those.

 

Well, since you have the oil pan off, pop a rod cap off and take a peek at the bearings. If it is bad rod bearings and you didnt fubar the crank, they can be done with the motor in the truck.

 

No it never got to run dry and my next step is to take out the oil pump and see what's up I may be a girl but I am somewhat mechanically inclined lol I've had the truck for about 2 years and the oil pressure is always been in the middle or low I've always checked it and it just started showing it needed it it's only 1 time a quart low other than that it was only like a half low I just did an oil change on it to because it was making a little noise but that did not help

 

Hmm

 

Gender has no importance here, you're a Tundra owner the same as the rest of us. The oil pump is on the front of the engine, not in the pan like on GM or Ford products. I'd follow BMF's advice, remove a couple of rod caps and crank caps to determine if the shavings are isolated to to one or the other. I've not read any posts here or other forums of oil pump failures on the 4.7. The pump seems to be pretty robust, and remember, the 4.7 only requires 4 psi at idle. Not to say it cant happen, but it may not be pump failure but maybe a collapsed or clogged oil filter issue?

If the babbitt from all your bearings is wiped, you're going to need to focus on getting another engine as remaining items in the lubrication circuit are probably toast as well. Good luck.

 

Ok thanks I will let you know what I find out

 

Yep. Didn't even notice your name...don't care. Your as capable as you are or not regardless and I'll assume you know what your doing until proven otherwise

Anyway, I second Remingtons post.

Unfortunatly, sometimes engines destroy bearings for no good reason. I have a small fleet of subarus and I just did an engine swap from one with 320,000 miles to one with only 214,00 but the 214,00 vehicle ate one of its rod bearings. No idea why it died and the other one of the same year and model has over 100K mores miles on it and still running great.

 

Physically inspecting the oil pump is one step further than doing a timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt and all belt pulley replacement job. You already have the pan off so checking the rod and crank bearings first, as others mentioned earlier, and is easier while being just as important.

Why? Because if crankshaft journals and piston rods are OK, then replace these lower bearings w/o removing the motor, replace the oil pump with Toyota OEM pump, do a timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt and all belt pulley replacement job before buying a rebuilt motor. Or, if on the low low cheap, just replace the bearings, timing belt, serpentine belt, both belt tensioners, water pump and any pulleys on their way out.

I usually find Rock Auto is the cheapest for cost and give you new parts from factory w/o getting returned parts that others resell at low cost. The Aisin timing belt/water pump kit is what you want along with OEM oil pump. This is a down and dirty do it yourself way out from buying a re-manufactured or rebuilt motor.
Never get a used motor, as that's a roll of the dice.

These are tough motors and after all this it might last up to 100,000 miles. You'll know this after a dry/wet compression test only after repairs.

How long and difficult to you was it to get the pan off? I want to change the oil pump while doing the timing belt job on this trk that was bought not too long ago. And while down there I might change out the lower bearings also.

 

I've been working so this weekend is when I will be able to do it and see what the problem is but to get the oil pan off it was not too hard the only problem I thought I was going to have is to take out the motor because the engine cradle was in the way of like six bolts but I was able to go through the holes and it had about an inch and a half to get a socket in there to finish removing the pan

 

Yeah, sometimes if not all, the motor mounts have to be separated from the motor to lift the motor for clearance to remove the oil pan. And sometimes the trans mount is loosened or bolts taken out for needed clearance to remove engine oil pan or get to the rod and/or main bearing bolts. The lazy like me complain about this extra work, but its really nothing when you have all the right tools for the job, or just have good patience as mothers are with their children.

Nice that you keep everyone here informed.