Kill switch

I have a 2017 1794 tundra, would like to install a hidden kill switch. Has anyone done this and if so how.

 

I asked about this before years ago and the thread got deleted or something cause it disappeared. I think you could put it on ignition wires and hide the switch under the dash somewhere.

 

Search chrisfix on YouTube. He has a detailed video doing this mod.

 

Something like this might be an option. I don’t know how much it costs.

https://www.ravelco.com/index.html

 

Quick fix: Go to a parts store and ask for a High Beam Switch for a 1968 Camaro. Mount this on the floor left of the brake pedal and run the wires under the carpet to the side panel the you can either wire it to the ignition or to the fuel pump. $10.00 or less for the part

 

yes, I use an oem switch inside the cab via a relay to the starter..

hint, you need a momentary switch..

 

If bell bottoms can make a comeback why can’t these switches...

 

I tossed a ignition cable switch from the battery to starter on my c10. Works unreal as it sits 98% of the time. Flick the switch it fires up -20 middle of winter.

Now that I’m working an 8/6 shift the goat sits for 8 days in a row during the winter. I plan on cutting a switch into the tundra circuit here as well. I’ll update once I get it installed.

 

I’ve been wanting to do this. Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

 

doesnt the truck already have this feature or something like it - engine immobilizer

asking for a friend

 

https://www.torquenews.com/4140/inside-toyota-tundra-theft-and-what-you-can-do-prevent-it

I'm pretty sure Toyota/Lexus that don't have the buttonless entry + push button start system are not vulnerable to relay attacks because they aren't actively listening for a signal. Like my wife's Lexus, you walk up without needing to push anything on the fob, pull door handle, open door. Lots of Lexus relay thefts around Toronto.

 

Side note, saw on fb someone had their cat cutoff while parked at the airport. Started the truck, "wow, that sounds cool... oh, NOOO"

 

Can just do what we do on heavy equipment, have a master key switch. Have your ground go from frame to one side of the switch, and your ground from battery to the other side. Switch the key off and battery is disconnected, switch it on and battery is connected

 

@abner

I just added one today.
This setup is more just a prolonged battery isolator than a hidden switch. Although, I’m sure this would still leave most scratching their heads... I work one week at a time and it sits with all its battery robbing jewelry and kills the battery in freezing temps, so here’s my fix.

I started by drilling a 3/4” hole in the inner fender skins and roughing in the switch location.
Then I crimped a 1’ long-0 gauge welding cable for the positive circuit extension. Bolted this from switch side (-) side of the switch to the positive battery lug.
Oh right, I decided to upgrade the oem battery lugs for some generic brass lugs as the factory’s were getting stretched and loose.
Decided to keep all the factory cables/lugs in tact incase I suck at wiring haha. So, I re-routed the winch and oem positive lug cables to (+) side of the switch and taped the hell out them to form a harness.
Then, I added a power-tap, for future electrical panel upgrade and stereo. I started with a 1’ long-4 gauge cable tied to an old Phoenix Gold single 4 gauge to quad 8 gauge power splitter. Bolted the splitter to the top/rear of the oem fuse panel lid.
That’s bout it.