"just replace the CV axle yourself. It won't be bad" I told myself...

Holy. Crap. Passenger front CV axle replacement.

The two bolts on the underside of the control arm are SOOOO hard to get out. I then found out why; they're torqued to 219 ft lbs! Then I had to rent a socket set from AutoZone for the axle nut; because who in the absolute world has a 39mm impact socket sitting around (which by the way, is torqued to 249 ft lbs?? Then I had to hammer the heck out of the CV axle to get it out.
And then. Oh lordy. Getting the new CV axle in was an absolute beast. I bet I slid it back and forth, side to side, shaked and rattled, a hundred times and could not get it past that ring on the end of the splines. I used grease to try and center the ring but I don't feel that helped much. Finally, the angels came down from heaven and allowed the axle to slide right into place.

Once the axle was in, it didn't take me long at all to put everything back together.

My number one lesson from this job was, "big trucks require big tools".

Also, this is my first post. Thanks for having me.

 

Who doesn’t have a 39mm impact socket? And that’s not even my biggest.

Kinda surprised it was that difficult. I get breaking bolts loose but that’s what impacts are for. The ring is definitely a pain in the butt. They either fall right or fight to the death. There’s no in between.

 

I can't say I've had this problem. The right tools play a huge part in DIY work.

 

I tried compressing the springs on my new shocks manually and swap them out with the old ones.

A broken control arm, no springs on my new shocks, a tow truck, and dealer visit later it worked out great

Welcome .

 

Cool you were willing to try something you hadn’t done before; figured it out; didn’t give up; can rationalize buying more tools; and wrote about it to help someone else have an easier time when they need to do this job!

Welcome!

 

Welcome from OKC! Good job! Next time lock into 4wd first, should make a little more easy.

 

Welcome

 

To the OP I feel your pain. Sometimes the clips on the shafts get just enough gunk or corrosion to where they won't compress and left the axle come out.

 

I go up to 54mm for me after that....too damn big.

 

OP, I too feel your pain, as I just completed this same job in order to replace my starter. 180K miles on my 2009 and that axle did NOT want to come out, OR go back in... will do some things differently next time, in case it's helpful to someone else:

• Use a pickle fork and/or axle puller (instead, I used a set of large handheld pry bars - the screwdriver form factor) - which eventually worked, but also chipped my cast aluminum diff housing in the process... *sigh*... fortunately no serious functional issues or leaks resulted.
• I've heard that engaging 4WD helps because it locks in place the splines within the front diff - otherwise it just spins as your trying to line them up and push the CV axle back in.
• In advance, I would buy a few CV axle retention springs and have them ready when I started the job. The original was chewed up and caused me a lot of problems, but my timeline wouldn't allow for me to order one and wait for it (couldn't track one down locally either). Probably would have made putting everything back together much easier. Retention spring opening goes at 12 o'clock, by the way.
• In advance, I would buy a replacement diff seal - I didn't need one, and there are no leaks, but I definitely don't want to have to get back in there anytime soon just to replace the seal - I regret that I didn't do it.

 

I don't think 4WD should be engaged when removing the CV. Also, a 5lb slide hammer is your friend to remove the CV. The CV has the perfect lip to fit a hose clamp around the CV and lock down a hook attachment.

 

The hose clamps look like a very good idea. I'm getting ready to complete the ECGS bushing install / needle bearing delete on the driver side, so I actually just bought a slide hammer - I think I'll try this trick - thanks!

 

Wish I could take credit for the idea, but I saw a Tacoma owner use that trick for removing his.

I pounded and pried my CV for what felt like an eternity, then went and got this slide hammer and hose clamps. Had it off in like 5 hits with the slide hammer. I was laughing hysterically after and my wife thought I lost my mind (I did, stuck CVs do that to you).

 

Oh yeah, I briefly reached new depths of despair with this CV job haha... again, I can very much relate to the OP. But, per usual, it seems like having the right tools really makes all the difference...

 

My local dealership charged me $300 to remove and install my driver side cv axle after I hit a root on a back road and tore a cv boot. It was $400 all in, including the part, labor and tax. The labor worked out to be around $300. Well worth it. lol

 

The other side will be easier. lol

 

$400!! I need a copy of that invoice so I can shove in my dealers face. They want twice that for a boot replacement here.

 

I stand corrected. $450. Albeit it was 3 years ago. But that was parts and labor.

 

Ah, I see. I found a reman OEM axle at my dealer today and will have a local 4x4 shop install and do an alignment I need. Still about double what you paid...