JL 10-TW3, Audiofrog,Kenwood DMX1037s Build

Spent a few weekends over the last month upgrading the stereo in my Crewmax. Thanks to most of you who posted your installs for the inspiration!

First was the

$1,049 DMX1037s 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

DMX1037s from Cruthfield. I ordered all of the accessories to go with it as well. At this point the factory system was much improved but after trying to tune the factory speakers over and over again I decided I had to upgrade.
Picture of the mic in the factory location in the overhead console

Spoke with James @tech12volts and went with his custom tuned ported box with JL 10TW3-D4's. He also recommended the JBL A1000 which is 600 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. After waiting a few days for the box to be built I wrote James again and had him send me the Audiofrogs G60S front components.

Killmat, Stinger sound rings and custom ABS speaker mounts. The stereo at this point with the Audiofrogs running off of the head unit sounded great!

Killmat the inside panel of the back window.

Got some 1/4" ABS to make a amp rack and fuse holded for the engine bay. Ordered techflex tubing to protect all of the wires. Heat shrinked, soldered and wire ferrules where needed. Just finished up on Monday.

At this point I still have to find a way to mount the remote bass knob and get it tuned properly. I am sure I will get some rear speakers for fill and a 4 channel amp at some point.

 

Clean install!

 

Super clean install.

 

Not sure if the user interface is different on the 1037 but the 1057 subwoofer adjust is easy to access so I don't feel like I need a bass knob. Might be something to consider for you, but I'm not sure. Maybe you are running a separate subwoofer RCA signal...

 

Very nice. Those subs are on the expensive side but the reviews are about as good as you'll ever read.

 

looks good. using the killmat in the back,, i didnt take the panel off, i just went over the entire rear with killmat. i figured if i needed to get to the window motor or anything in there, i can just cut the mat.. thats a really nice box. good job..

 

You shouldn't be using the SW level on the head unit to adjust on the fly. For the 1057, you should leave it at +1 to get to 5v on the output and leave it there. (There's a youtube vid on it).

 

After trying every which way to get the bass knob in a factory blank, there was just no doing it with this particular one from JBL. The circuit board behind it is bulky and will not fit. I did find the best hidden spot right next to the hood latch. This wasn't optimal for location but did provide a clean look and can easily reach while driving
Also, for those of you wondering, I bought the grills for these subs and was able to get them in with the factory sound insulation mat. I did cut the factory threaded mounts for the JBL subwoofer. I am not sure if this provided more clearance but it did fit, just barely. In fact i think the seat bar is touching the grills but ultimately my kids won't ever be able to accidentally drop something and poke a hole in these subs.

 

Where did you get the wire clamps for the power wire in the engine bay?

 

Home Depot.

 

Sweet build!!! Question, can you take a closeup picture of your fuse mount and post for us? Been trying to build a fuse mount bracket for mine, and yours looks like a winner.

 

Good work, clean install. I have the same JL subs, love them!

 

I did something similar. I bought some ABS from Amazon, cut a thin strip, heated it and bent it to fit. I put a piece of foam under the mount so it wouldn't rattle.

 

Thanks. I bought 1/4" ABS from Amazon then after i cut it to size with a table saw i placed it in a vice and used a heat gun to slowly heat up the plastic to get the 90 degree bend. I had to cut around the battery hold down a bit to make it work as well.

 

how are the subs?

 

How is that bench front seat?

Clean install..
Looks great..

 

The subs are sound great. They sound clean and can get loud when you want them to.

 

Did you tune it properly now?

 

Oh ok. I went with the multimeter route. Oscilloscope is expensive for one time use. Going the multimeter way vs. by ear made a huge difference for me.

 

Anyone have a static hiss from their speakers after the kenwood 1037 install? I've swapped out RCAs and checked my ground and it's still present.

 

Most of the time static hiss happens because the amp's power cable is near rca or speaker wires.

 

Your gains might be set too high.

 

^this

 

I tore out the head unit and plugged in brand new RCAs that ran directly to the amp (no where near the power cable) and still have the same noise.

 

the noise is present at all gain levels

 

where did you connect the ground for your amp?

 

I've narrowed down the issue to be with the head unit as I disconnected the amp and it is present in the dash speakers. The dash speakers are powered by the head unit.

 

I would disconnect the dash speakers if you are running component speakers with tweeters in the sail panels. Doesn't do much, and will have a volume difference.

 

The thing is this static noise is in all the speakers. I've only isolated it to a head unit issue so disconnecting the dash speakers won't fix the issue.