Is my CV joint seated enough?

Just installed the ECGS bushing and can boot on this reman axle. It really doesn’t want to move anymore. Wondering if any of you guys with the ecgs noticed a difference.

 

That looks fine to me. You heard and felt it pop past the circlip? That's what keeps it from coming out.

 

i didn’t really hear anything, I was lightly tapping but it definitely won’t pull out rn. Looks like the silver ring is still visible as if it needs 1/8 - 1/4 in more. Tried rotating ,tapping the flange and tapping the end in straight.

 

It won't seal flat against the diff housing like your aftermarket CV is doing. On your top picture, I see the dust seal that stays on your CV in that small gap. When the truck is on it's own weight, the gap might appear smaller.

As long as it's in there straight, past the snap ring, it can't come out easily.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/small-gap-between-front-differential-and-cv-axle.112165/

 

gotcha, alrighty I’ll put it together. Thanks dude I appreciate the quick reply I feel much better about it.

 

Follow up, the other reman Toyota axle didn’t come with a snap ring for the inner cv joint. Pretty frustrated

 

Isn't the grease supposed to be a really runny consistency?

 

No, it’s like peanut butter, I had to use a paint stir stick to slop it into the CVS

 

Interesting. I've never done one on a Tundra, but when I've done axles on cars the lube could be poured in/out of the boot. Thicker than gear oil, but not as thick as conventional grease.

 

It’s just like regular old grease on every one I’ve done. Never seen any liquid. That’s probably a bad sign?

 

Only time I’ve ran into grease like thag is water contamination

 

There was a video on YouTube someone posted recently showing something related to rebuild or install of axles, I think it was an OEM axle re-boot kit reinstall. Really really good video from a mech who clearly knew his Toyota. He was given two packets of grease for his, one was the consistency of gear oil and the other the consistency of thick syrup. Was scratching my head also, I hadn’t seen anything that loose either.

 

Update, got myself a new snap ring and put everything back together. Drives super smooth now. Steering shaft and seal + cv axles + ecgs bushing and 99% of my highway vibrations are gone. Drives like a new truck

 

I believe that was the Car care nut on YouTube he pretty recently did a video about rebooting cv axles he is a Toyota specialist and that is a great channel if you like learning about Toyotas.
OP sorry not trying to derail the thread.

 

Here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH5Cf7uJV5Y

 

Yep that’s him.
Love that channel.

 

Hello. I apologize for resurrecting an old thread. I just wanna ask if you reinserted your CV axle again after noticing the gap? If not, did you experience any problems? I have the same problem with mine after installing ECGS bushing with my 2015. I can’t seat my cv axle all the way in. I’m looking forward to your response.

 

Yeah there’s a bit of a gap after install, it felt much better for me with no issues until recently when the passenger side gave out. the driver side joint feels pretty tight and has a 1/4 inch ish gap so the plastic splash guards ride pretty flush with the diff housing.

 

Hello. Just giving an update. I was able to fully seat my CV axle a month ago and I was also able to eliminate the loud clunk at full turn. The culprit was my lower control arm ball joint. I re-torqued it to spec and it’s been silent since then. That’s all. Happy New Year to everyone!

 

The tapered ball joint nut itself, or the 4 bolts that attach the LBJ to the control arm?

 

Really important questions here, but also: did you use thread lock or no? Ideal situation with those:

• Never use anything except OEM lower ball joints unless you like sudden catastrophic failure
• If replacing the ball joint, replace the bolts also, it’s cheap insurance
• If removing the bolts, always use at least a blue thread lock during reinstall
• Mark your bolt position so you can more easily check for back-out at each oil change

I recently bought new OEM LBJ and bolts for a near-future proactive replacement. My OEM bolts came with a red thread lock residue on them, interestingly enough.