Insane 1st Gen Toytec coilover deal today/tomorrow only (Dec 13, 14)

Posting over here because I know a lot of us 1st Gen guys don't check the deals forum much.

FYI, the Toytec (Elka re-branded) coilovers are going for cheaper-than-Black-Friday pricing for our trucks the next couple days. $799 for just the front coilovers, which is sick - use coupon code TOYTUN20 in the discount box as shown.

Link to coilovers-only: Link to full lift kit:

 

Oh, and Elite Race Fab still has SPC upper control arms with adjustable, greasable SPC balljoints for $560.

https://eliteracefab.com/products/eibach-pro-alignment-front-kit-for-00-06-toyota-tundra

Grab some Suspension Maxx SMT 122270T extended sway links to go with it, and you've got a better lift than 90% of the other heathens around here

 

I got the same deal during Black Friday. I installed them about 3 weeks ago and they're pretty smooth.

 

Weird. How'd you get 20% off? The BF coupon they advertised was only 15% discount.

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I just checked my invoice and you're right, 15% off. I should return mine, then buy a new set for the extra 5% off.

 

That'll show 'em!!

I'm not sweating it over $50. I saved over $500 between buying the SPC arms with Eibach branding and the 15% off BF coupon. I'm feeling pretty good about where I'm at ... now I just need to find a killer deal on tires!

 

Very tempting, Any details on the rear spring note?

Also I was planning on going with dobinson springs on 5100s, Will these ride better? I see the spring rates are very different.

 

I can't speak to ride, because I haven't tried both.

5100 on Dobinsons will be close to 5100s on OME. The big difference is, these Toytecs allow you to dial-in your height just right, whereas anything with 5100s is static. To change ride height, you'll need to pull your suspension and either swap springs, or change circlip height on the strut.

That said, I also can't speak to the rear spring thing. I'm guessing the add-a-leaf (if you so choose one in the full kit) only works with certain leaf springs, and they're warning you about that. I personally don't like blocks and/or pucks for lowering or lifting, I won't do them.

In my case, I just bought the front coilovers, knowing I wanted to run Bilsteins out back, and didn't need a lot of the extras. I don't plan on lifting my rear, so didn't need the AAL or blocks. I didn't want to pay full-gouge price for the SPC uppers. I didn't need the Duros.

I also see the rear shocks in the kit are on backorder. Buyer needs to decide if they need or want to worry about it. If you piece your system together separately, you'll get a better deal. I just wanted the coilovers - $800 for high quality rebuildable coilovers is stupid. Especially when you consider Elka sells the same for twice as much.

 

I’m not really concerned with adjustability. The dobinson springs are 586 pounds vs these at 700. I think the dobinsons will ride better unless that shock is way better than the 5100.

 

Elka definitely makes high quality stuff. I pinged some of the guys who recently installed these coilovers and everyone is very positive about the ride - no complaints, all positive comments.

Adjustability is crucial if you want to get rid of the inherent 'Tundra lean'. Otherwise you're shimming one side to compensate for the truck being off-kilter 1/4" - 1/2" on one side. Most 1GT are out of whack in front, mine is out of whack front and back. But if you're going static, 5100 is definitely the way to go. But when you can pay ~$100 more and get full-on high-quality coilovers, I couldn't bring myself to go with Billies.

 

Dangit, Shifty! I'm new here and don't even know you, and still... every day you post something that I want to spend $$$$ on.

Yesterday it was a whole house networking/cloud system, and today it's a lift.

I think the only answer is to raise my income.

(Seriously though, thanks for the heads up. I was going to put off the lift for another year or so, but this is tempting!)

 

Would someone mind steering me in the right direction to read about the difference between adding a leaf and using the blocks in the rear. What's the functional difference (other than the blocks being $200 cheaper)?

Also, bump stops? Yes or no?

Thanks for any feedback!

 

Blocks are cheaper because they're a cheap means to an end. They can crack, they can compress, steel is ideal (IMO), but most are aluminum. You're basically taking a hunk of metal, and wedging it over/under your axle (depending whether lifting/lowering, respectively) to raise or lower the relationship of your suspension/axle to the frame/body (this is oversimplified quite a bit). Otherwise, all components of your rear suspension stay the same.

With an add-a-leaf, you're inserting an additional piece of pre-arched leaf into your existing leaf spring pack, and achieving lift by combo of stiffening/beefing up/raising the stack height of the leaf spring pack itself.

Clearly, it takes little of nothing to make a metal block, and give you longer U-bolts to hold it to your rear axle. It takes a bit more to make a leaf, arch it properly, and give you longer U-bolts to hold it to your rear axle. This is why one is more $$ than the other.

If you plan to offroad, most will tell you to skip the blocks for reasons of shear/collapse/fracture. EDIT: But we do have a couple of our regular wheelers on here who are using blocks on their rigs. I think it may possibly be more due to the fact it's a pain in the ass to get a properly arched leaf pack that doesn't leave your ass-end squatting though!

The real question I'd be asking you is: Do you need to lift in the rear right now? Do you plan on going more than 2" lift in the front? If not, you probably don't need to lift the rear... With coilovers, you have maximum flexibility to raise/lower the truck now or later. You can always wind down lower if it's too high in the front, or you want bigger tires, wind up to raise the front and add-a-leaf out back later.

It's the main reason I bought coilovers only, and upper control arms, with rear shocks: I just want about 1.75" -2.25" lift (not sure yet) so lift the front a bit, and allow room for some more meaty tire. I don't want to lift the rear now. But if I find I'm rubbing excessively, and need to wind up & go 2.25"+ lift, I'll ultimately lift the rear too.

How much lift you get depends a lot on your cab type + drivetrain. Ideally order your lift based on your cab+drivetrain and what you intend to achieve. What are you wanting to do? Level your truck by lifting the front only? Lift all four corners and offroad the truck?

As for the Duros, if you don't plan on going higher than 2.5" you probably won't need them. Spend the money on extended sway bar links instead. And definitely skip the SPC upper control arms, since you can get them hundreds cheaper buying the Eibach branded version of the same thing.

Hope this helps answer questions, versus create more!

 

Do the maxxsuspenion sway bar end links make any difference or is it simply to replace worn out ones. I have a 2.5" dobinsons and mine dont seem to be in bad shape. Wondering if it makes a difference in something you notice or feel or just to replace something worn... thanks

 

If you have an extended link already in place, you shouldn't have any issues. Due to geometry changes, you'll want to use a longer link on your front swaybar after lifting. Are you still using the stock swaybar end links?

 

Super helpful! I've got a work deadline tonight so I know I'll come back to it later.

I recently picked up a '05 DC. Definitely am more concerned about the front that the back. The rake is pretty substantial, so leveling it out would be great. Taking the back up some would be nice too, but you guessed right, it's not as important to me.

I mountain bike and camp with the family some, so it will get some usage, but I don't need a top of the line setup by any means.

Thanks again for the help!

 

The extra leverage from rear blocks exagerates spring wrap and could cause problems with the ujoints.

and a big yes to bumpstops. Dont wanna bottom out shocks.

 

At 2-1/4" or less, I don't think the bumpstops are necessary, just based on geometry guesstimates. Certainly not for 2" or less. I mean, the installer should evaluate after install to be sure, but I'd be shocked (no pun intended) to see a 1GT bottoming out the shock with only 2" lift.

 

Maybe. Are 5100 billy's and the toytec or kings the same compressed length as stock? Or will the coils bind before they bottom out?

 

Yes @Shifty but when i have crawled under truck they seem to be in good shape. Would i notice a difference if I bought and installed them?

 

I'll find out soon enough, I hope

 

Have you not noticed extra thunks, bangs, or clangs over bumps?

Do you notice your swaybar is limiting suspension travel on extension?

If yes, you may want to look into extended links.

I'm planning to install with my lift because I've seen others on here bitch and show examples of exactly that, and they're not overly expensive. At least one person showed pics of how badly his OEM wore out after a few weeks/months of use after lifting. One less thing to deal with, and I'm sure my 15yo+ rubber bushings on the links are dry.

 

Hell ya i have heard clunks but never knew what it was. Mine are not overly worn out. Ill order a new set. I have no idea if it has if it has limited my travel. Ill take some photos and post in a few days when off work. Anyone here know of them on sale anywhere?

 

It's the one thing I wasn't able to find on sale anywhere. SummitRacing is about the most reputable vendor I could find, but still around $130.

This may be one of those things, like JL Audio, where everything is price-fixed and the manuf'er will come down on you if they catch you selling below MSRP.

And yeah, on the clunks, a couple of people have straight-up bent their OEM sway links because of it. There's pics here on the forum. I can dig 'em up if you wanna see