Inconsistent steering stiffness

So I’ve recently developed an inconsistent steering stiffness on my 2000 tundra

my steering either completely binds up or it gets really hard to turn around the middle and right and left full lock. The thing that really is confusing is that it doesn’t do it all the time. Sometimes I can go full lock with no issues.

When the steering isn’t binding, the steering feels good. Smooth until it randomly happens.

I’ve been having this issue for about a month. And after a 2 weeks since I had the issue .I decided to replace the rack with a brand new Toyota one. As my old one had some play in it and developed a leak on the passenger side. I assumed the rack was blown, causing it to bind.

after replacing it I still have that inconstant binding and stiffness. I still have that binding even with the tie rod ends disconnected from the spindle.

im not sure what else to check at this point. Any feedback would be appreciated

 

Sounds like the U joint in your steering shaft.

 

I’m currently not home so I can’t check it.

Is this u joint greaseble or is it something I’d just have to change out?

 

I believe the entire shaft is one unit on our trucks and has to be replaced but I haven't had to fix this on a tundra. Your symptoms perfectly match this problem on other vehicles I've had.

 

I remember seeing one person on here whose steering shaft seal blew out (common) and his steering shaft was just flopping around all janky. Here's a pic. https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1474#post-3113946

You'd think that'd cause a bind.

But I'd also be checking: (1) standard test for blown tie rods/balljoints by push/pull of wheel while front end is jacked up and (2) steering rack bushings, (3) general look-over of the suspension to look for anything disconnected that could be interfering, i.e. swaybar links, etc. and (4) confirm all nuts and cotters are intact for the LBJ, UBJ, tie rod ends, etc. on both sides to make sure you don't die because something came loose.

 

Since you have a new rack (which I would assume has new bushings installed) and the binding is still occurring with the tie rod ends disconnected, the steering shaft ujoint is worth checking out.

Did you remember any rattling or banging around on bumps? My old Cobalt did that at 350k miles, and the steering ujoint was floppy and shot. Does your truck have high miles?

If yours is worn out and gets replaced, be sure to also purchase 45292-35090, which is the steering shaft seal.

Good luck, and please update the thread with your findings.

 

Did you get all of the air out of the system? It’s hydraulic, so air will cause loss of pressurization and function.

 

Update

I checked out the u joint on the steering rod, and it feels solid but when turning it does make some clicking noise.

I’ve also noticed it gets easier to turn when the weather is warmer and the car has driven for a few miles.
*note* when I did change the rack I used brand new dexron fluid as the cap tells me but is it a possibility that I used too thick of a fluid?.

 

Dexron is the correct fluid. You should be ok there.

Is the ujoint moving around a lot, kind of like the one shown in the picture & thread that shifty linked?

As mentioned just above, air in the system could be a possibility too.

 

I bled the system pretty good in my opinion, it stopped bubbling and taking in fluid, I’m assuming that’s properly bled.

I didn’t pay attention to the seal mentioned but I will take a look and confirm

I’ll probably have to change out the rod so I’ll change out that seal anyways

 

after filling it up, you have to turn full lock one way, and then back the other full lock to get all the air out. Repeat until no bubbles are seen.

 

Agree, this process can take a while too.

@Nate00T Try the above again, just to be sure. If the binding is still present, get a helper to move the steering wheel back and forth, and you observe all the moving parts. Try and pinpoint the problem, if you can. The upper intermediate shaft is an expensive part, and I would hate for you to buy one and it not be the issue.

Is the rubber coupling in good condition (on the lower intermediate shaft close to the rack)?

 

When I diagnosed bad steering joints in other vehicles, I would spray them with some Pblaster or similar...it usually temporarily improved after that, which is how I knew where the problem was. None of them felt loose, it wasn't a problem of being loose, but of dried out, binding needle bearings.

 

Seal replacement info: https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-steering-shaft-seal.48664/