i dunno what this is

So like I was driving like around 30 to 40mph right, pressing gas then I heard a squeaky noise but I only hear it when it around 30 to 40.mph but when I go to 50 or more it gone? What can it be? I hear it behind me or kinda in the middle, maybe diff? Idk and when i press brake the noise is gone but when i press gas the noise is back at 30-40mph lol.

 

U-joint is what I would expect, but there’s a wild array of things it could be. Sreeching is often something needle bearing. Can be any number of bearings, though. Output shaft bearing, pinion bearing, u-joint. You feeling any vibration at all, in the seat or floorboard, at any speed? Have you checked the state of your brake pads and shoes?

 

nope no vibration at all and the brake pad is good and how do i check on the shoes? most of my car that i own is all awd.

 

I'll break up fronts and rears into two different posts. Front in this reply. Rears in next reply.

Fronts are easy as pie. Take off a front wheel Find the rotor, the clampy thing mounted over your rotor/disc. One side has a slot. Look into the slot. The vented part (in green) is your rotor/disc. The blue part is the baseplate for your brake pad. The red section is the pad surface or stopping material, you see that notch in the center I circled in yellow? If your pad has it, andyou can't see that anymore, you need new pads, they're too worn. Otherwise, you need to have minimum thickness of about 2-3 credit cards still on the base plate, and if you don't, there's a squealer that can create a screech in miscellaneous conditions at higher speeds, one of which could stop if you tap on the brakes. Note: The pads slide out with 2 minutes of very basic disassembly. I can link you to a post that will help you change your own brake pads, it is REALLY EASY on these trucks. No bolts to remove, just clips, and you need to know the correct way to orient the pads, and you DO NOT want to use store brand pads. Buy Advics brand pads, they made the OEM pads and they give you all new hardware, and pre-glue all the shims onto the pad base plates, making it the most-plug-and-play experience possible.

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Rears ... I'm going to show you what you're looking for, then link you with a video from JDM driveway that will show you how to get into the drum, since it's not obvious if you've never done them.

Same deal here. Pad material is the semi-circle band Im showing in red. That's glued onto the thin metal strip the blue circle is highlighting, hope you can tell. You want to have (A) fairly even wear from end to end, though they're always off a bit, and (B) again, you want to have at least thickness of 2-3 credit cards of material on here. Though I don't think your rears are an issue, this is something you should be checking during an annual or bi-annual safety check on your truck. The adjustments Sal shows in the video below will also have your truck stopping on a dime if it's properly bled (i.e. you bled the LSPV if present, and you bled in the proper order after).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_s6uUgV7yyw​

 

ahh got it.

 

NP.

If I were you, I'd consider chocking the front wheels, putting it in neutral, jacking up the rear at the diff, and spinning the driveshaft and testing the u-joints push/pull on opposide sides of the joint, feeling/listening for crunchiness. Also checking the carrier although I doubt that's it. I'd also check for play and crunchiness where the driveshaft meets the diff and the transmission.