How to: Swapping black axles for red TRD axles

Thinking about swapping your black axles out for some red TRD axles? Here’s what you’ll need:

Hammer
Mallet
Pliers
Flat head/chisel
39mm axle socket
22mm socket
Ratchet/breaker bar
Pry bar or air hammer
Drip pan




Disclaimer! Do this at your own risk. I’m already assuming you know your way around a wrench so some of the obvious things are left out(ie using jack stands,etc). with that being said, this took two hours with essentially hand tools with the aid of air. No need to remove the TRD skid plate either.

This should translate to most axle choices. Keep in mind the red axles are the same length just beefier and double jointed for better articulation. TRD Silvers are longer however should come on and off the same way. Not sure what else you would need for the silvers.



I started with both wheels lifted off the ground. Once the tires off, here’s what you’re looking at.


Get your axle nut cover off. Slowly go around the outer edge and work the cap off.



Now get the cotter pin straight and pull it out. I used my pliers to get a hold of it and tapped on the pliers.



The axle nut crown is now off, time to put the 39mm axle nut socket on it. I used air but you can wedge the rotor so it won’t rotate and break it open with a ratchet or bar.


Remove the two, 22mm bolts on the knuckle. No need to touch the center ball joint nut.



Now you’re pulling the entire hub assembly towards you as you push the axle in. Put the assembly to the side.


Place a drip pan underneath the truck. You’ll lose a negligible amount of diff fluid. Carefully pry the old axle out of the diff. Place the pry bar either on the outer body of the axle or right behind it. Be mindful that you don’t want the pry bar too far behind the axle to risk damaging the seal attached to the diff. You may bend some of the outer debris guard ring on the axle but that is easily bent back if you’re planning on keeping the old axles.


You will have a small stream of diff fluid coming out. Don’t panic! You don’t have to rush the new axle in. Dont stop for lunch either haha.

Protect the new axle boots at all times! Make sure you don’t rush this part and rip a boot. I used a bungee to keep the boot from sitting on things for this next part. You want to insert the new axle and spin it until the grooves engage. Then, you want to start pushing the axle in to engage the locking ring. You’ll feel it go in another 1-2 inches. Once it’s properly seated, give it a little pull to make sure it’s locked in.

Used the black axle as an example. This is how I kept the red axle from rubbing and ripping against things as I motivated it to seat home.


It’s time for assembly!
Get the axle back into the hub but don’t tighten the axle nut yet. You need wiggle room to get the 22mm bolts back in. Manually push down the hub assembly to retighten the lower knuckle. Be careful with these bolts as they are entering aluminum threads. Get a few turns in before the ugga duggas.



Torque the lower bolts to 220 ft lbs
Torque the axle nut to 249 ft lbs

I wedged a skinny punch to stop the rotation of the rotor when torquing the axle nut.



Reinstall the crown and cotter pin. Get it bent back to its original locking position.


Use a mallet to pop the axle cover back on, rotating and evenly tapping on the outer edge. You’re done with one side!



Always a good idea to check your alignment after a job like this. You’re not technically altering the suspension dimensions but it’s cheap insurance.

Enjoy the axles that Toyota should’ve gave you!

 

Thanks for the write up, doesn’t look like too bad of a job at all…nice garage too

 

Im only averaging 7k miles a year(at 15k miles) so that might be a while! Haha

 

Very nice, but you forgot to paint the end pieces red!

 

My red sharpie broke lol

On that note, all the colors underneath are getting out of hand

 

Right on time. I am planing to replace mine in few weeks. Thank you very much for taking the time

 

Solid write up. One thing to add is you might want to top off the front differential fluid after doing this depending on how much you lost during the installation. Generally, people drain the front differential before doing this but there are ways to use gravity to your advantage to minimize the amount of fluid you lose.

 

Good point. I forgot to insert the picture of the pan. The procedure only left me with a negligible amount of fluid lost. Not enough for a drain and fill for me

 

If you need diff fluid, here are the specs. Front filled capacity is ~1.4 quarts. 75w-85 or 75w-90

 

I've got some red axles available if anyone is looking to do this swap.

 

If anyone was curious, I went and got the alignment checked at the off road shop after the swap. One side was a little off my previous alignment. It may or may have been tech error from my previous alignment but either way good idea to get it checked!

 

Thanks for this great write up. Easier to follow than most YouTube videos. Just swapped mine today. Piece of cake in 1h20m

 

Great write up. I gave this to the techs that installed my axles, OR shocks and leveling kit. Now I have a slight vibration, almost like a hum, that I can feel at 47-52 miles per hour. It certainly feels like it is coming from the front drivetrain. I had them re-balance tires, check the torque on everything they did today and it is still present. One of the guys feels like it could be my transmission relearning shift points with the larger/heavier tires, but I am not convinced. Any ideas on what I could check for?

 

sounds like a tire out of round. Have you tried swapping fronts and rears?

 

Yea that sounds like tires. Either out of balance or maybe the tire brand is naturally loud(comes with the territory with a/t and m/t)

 

What is the difference in the Red TRD offroad axles and the TRD axles ? I see on some lifts like Dobinson it says if going over 2.5” up front you want to purchase the TRD axles below not the red TRD offroad axles.

• TRD 3" Lift Kit Front CV Axles
  • PT362-34310 & PT362-34320
  • 
    
    
  • Not these below why??
    Toyota/TRD Off-Road OEM Red Axles
    43420-0C020, Right, Front, CV Axle
    43410-0C020, Left, Front, CV Axle

 

skip to 6:40 in the video. It should explain it
https://youtu.be/mF2OxPaPN9I?si=eOe_Kba3lGxgaFzT

 

That didnt discuss the TRD 3" lift ones at all. Only the TRD Offroad and Pro axles. Like I said a lot of companies are stating to go with part numbers

• PT362-34310 & PT362-34320 which are the ones used on the 3" TRD lift and not the TRD Offroad/PRO ones. That is what I am wondering?

 

My recommendation: red axles are overbuilt and capable of handling a small lift. Silver axles are merely extended with no other changes. Either axle will suffice in my opinion

 

Thx for a very nice pictorial. I learned from it. Q? - With such small fluid leakage wouldn’t just jacking one side at a time stop any leakage at all?

 

Yes! I had a brain fart when I started and jacked it up level from muscle memory. Definitely could jack one side up taller and switch.

 

To me this sounds like it could be the classic Toyota needle bearing failure. I saw it’s a very similar, or the same needle bearing that was used in my ‘21 Tacoma. Will be interested to see how many people have this fail on them. I’m surprised that nobody has commented on this or the need for swapping to an ecgs bushing.

 

I just installed a readylift 3in with 1 inch diff drop and new uca bumpstop extension etc... I did notice the driver cv angle looks worse then the passenger but I sure hope both will be alright with the new