How to bleed the whole system?

I bought aftermarket rotors on rear, nothing but road noise. they where rubbing on the backing plate. back off put old ones back on. pain in the but after 5 hrs.problem i'm having is half a pedal, if have to stop now push hard on the pedal goes to the floor. how do I bleed the whole system? last month put front pads on, then had to replace a caliper that froze up. pretty sure I got all the air out, I did bleed all 4 calipers. but still have half a pedal.
anyone have this experience before? and for the rotors maybe buy from 1a auto. these ones from parts geek

 

I’ve thought that if you don’t open any brake lines, you should never need to bleed the brakes.
I was wrong. A couple months ago I changed my brake fluid and my brake pedal feels so much better. You may just need to bleed them again to be sure, especially after moving those calipers around with the disc changes.
Start the bleeding process at the rear passenger, then rear driver, and follow through in a circle. For being 9 years old, it may be time to change it as well.

 

how did you change the fluid? that's what I think I have to do

 

Brake fluid likes to absorb water. It turns green. Water boils much sooner than brake fluid and creates bubbles in those conditions which leads to soft pedal. Water in the fluid also corrodes the system slowly. Water and contaminants in the fluid mostly enters through the caliper piston seals. So the fluid in your calipers is the worst. Bleed at every pad change. It's not ridiculous to do so as many on here suggest, it's good practice and it improves your brake performance and the system longevity. And it costs $8.

 

Pull all the existing brake fluid out of the reservoir with a hand pump or turkey baster (it’s all I had, and it worked). Then fill with the proper fluid (at the moment I can’t remember if it’s Dot 3 or 4).
Follow the bleeding process as described, but instead of just waiting for the air bubbles to finish, you’ll wait for clear liquid. If the fluid is as dirty as mine was, it will be easy to tell. Keep an eye on your fluid level, if it gets too low you’ll pump air directly into the lines. Follow around the truck and that’s it. My wife sat in the truck on FaceTime with me and pumped the brakes while I did the ground squirming. I think it took less than 30 minutes for everything.

 

Be careful not to push the brake pedal to the floor. The shaft / piston inside the master cylinder rarely travels that far in normal braking and becomes corroded over time. That corrosion, when advanced across the seals can damage the piston seals and create leaks in the master cylinder. Place a small piece of 2x4 or similar object behind the brake pedal to prevent bottoming it out during bleeding.

 

This makes sense to me. I didn’t do that, I’ll make sure to do that next time. That leak would happen contained in the master cylinder? Or the first seal at the shaft creating a leak outside the master cylinder?

 

Could create less effective pressure in the master cylinder creating poor brake performance. Could externally leak, probably into the brake booster itself.

 

Got it. Thanks for the info!

 

thank you all for the info

 

Worth the purchase
https://speedibleed.com/