Hot no crank no start

Ok guys 06 tundra sr5 and it will start cold and run great…. Then once it’s up to temp and I turn off the ignition, it will not start for 2-4 hours???? Idea’s ???? Beers on me for the one that leads me the right way!!!

 

How does it crank when you try to start it up again? Strong or sluggish?

Where is the needle on temperature gauge before turning it off?

How many miles on the truck?

Have you hooked it up to a scanner to see what the temp is from the ecu?

 

'06's have the bump start. Temp sensor? Fuel pressure?

 

Likely that temp sensor next to the TB

 

Heat soak is a typical sign of resistor failure.

Try bypassing the fuel resistor with a jumper. In the 2006 Tundra, that's the silver flattish finned thing on top of the passenger fender well, next to the power steering reservoir. But could also be the non-green temp sensor (there are two temp sensors, one big one that's green and a smaller one that's black/grey).

 

The temp gauge show normal range on the dash panel. When it starts again it fires right up and runs like it always has. The truck has 249000 miles on it. Before this issue the truck would run like a new truck.
Will try the temp sensor idea. Once it starts up and I let it warm up a bit and then give it some throttle it sounds normal, no bogging down like it is choked for fuel.
I have been going through so many of these threads and a lot of people have done the starter to no avail. Also seen crankshaft position sensor mentioned as well … what to y’all think?
Thanks in advance for more input.

 

Again: There are TWO temp sensors. Both live on the passenger side of the throttle body. One for the dash gauge (green plastic, larger) and one for the ECU (grey/black, smaller).

If the ECU doesn't get a valid range from the temp sensor, it won't start the engine, for safety's sake, is what others have found. Both are resistor based IIRC. Resistors are often impacted by heat soak.

I would start with bypassing the fuel resistor (basic jumper) but if you have skills with a DMM, you can measure resistance across the ECU temp sensor and determine, based on outside temp, if all measures OK. If you find it is still happening after fuel resistor bypass AND the ECU temp sensor is reading in-spec per the field service manual, then ... let us know. But those are the two ultimately-likely things.

 

And no, it's not the starter. It's rarely the starter.

I doubt it's the crank position sensor - you'd see visible damage to the wiring if the timing belt nicked it, and beside that, it's not as susceptible to heat. The fact you're giving us "only when warm" is a super important clue.

 

Will try the temp sensor idea. Thank you will let y’all know

 

Important to note,they changed up for the 05 and 06. They still have the coolant temp sensor and indeed it is Gray(2UZ) and Dark Gray(1GR) that feeds the ECU.

The sensor for the 2UZ is indeed on passenger side, close to TB but on the 1GR it's located driver side back of eng area.

Where they got squirrely in the 05/06 for the combination meter temp gauge is they feed a signal(THWO) to that Temp Control gauge from the ECU that was derived from the E2 Temp Sensor thus doing away with the green connector for Temp Sender used on past years 00-04.

 

Thanks, Bubba!

 

Tried running a jumper on both the fuel and temp sensors and still no start no crank when the truck has been warmed up.

 

does your truck have an aftermarket alarm system??

 

It did I have removed it from the truck. It was definitely half assed put in. I also noted some damage to the starter relay so I replaced it as well. I am lost!!!

 

This is helpful to me. After my recent starter job I have a dead temp gauge, which I'm sure is just the connector, having put it all back together after midnight at a gas station. NBD. However, my scan gauge is showing correct coolant temp's. I wasn't sure how they were reading different but now it all makes sense. Thank you. That is all.