Help with my alignment specs

So just had this alignment done on my 2018 tundra. Yesterday I put a 2/3 ready lift on it. Are these specs ok?

 

Start your journey in reading about aftermarket upper control arms.

 

IMO those suck.

Camber should be closer to 0.
Caster should be slightly + right side to accommodate for road crown.
Toe should be closer to .14 cross with .07 a side.

Sounds like you either need to find a more competent shop willing to spend time to try and dial it in or you need arms.

What do you alignment cams look like?

 

Terrible as stated above with specs.

 

Figured I'd post here for some alignment guru's to chime in with their thoughts. So I had coachbuilder tie rods installed and had to get an alignment afterwards. The shop said whomever did my alignment last didn't know what they were doing although it drove perfectly fine to me and no uneven tire wear or problems in the 20k miles since it was last aligned. I never had any tire rub issues before either.

Now after this alignment I'm getting tire rub by the cab mount. I'm scheduled to get a cab mount chop on Wednesday which will fix the tire rub, but would like some input on my current alignment specs. I believe the Camburg uca's should be around 6 degrees caster from what I've read. It drives fine and no issues other than the new tire rub that I didn't have before. Let me know what you think.

 

@Overland1992, as others have stated, those numbers are not good.

you should not need new uppers with a 3/2 readylift, only a competent alignment shop.

i am running a 3/1 ready lift w/ stock upper control arms. very happy w/ my numbers. even tire wear, zero pull to either side.

my first alignment was pretty bad, and i was preparing to purchase new uppers, until i spoke w/ the shops senior tech. he assured me that i did not need uppers, and that he'd get me a great alignment. was very knowledgeable about camber, caster, & toe, and the effects of each, not just the difference between red and green on a computer screen.

hope this helps.

 

IMO your rubbing because they took away caster. Especially with Camburg, the more "neutral" they get set, the worse - simply due to design. Camburg arms are designed with a lot of caster built in. And because of that they need high caster numbers when aligned because "giving them negative caster" will push the wheel back towards the cab.

Top "stock"
Bottom "camburg"
Eccentetrics equal ( they are the straight lines)
Hub, LBJ, wheel assembly
Hope it makes sense

 

Thanks @14burrito That makes sense. I figured the caster had something to do with it. Would you leave as-is and get the cab mount chop or try to redo the alignment to correct the rub?

I'm running 295/70/18 Cooper AT3 XLT's with a +25 offset rim. I'm thinking if the alignment is okay as-is then maybe do the chop to fix the rub and hopefully be able to run 35's when these wear out without rubbing later on?

 

FWIW I ran 35x12.5 on RW without rub. Rub, and use rub, is dependent on aligner. If you cannot find someone willing to dial it in, the CMC will open you up to shops and such. If you aren't willing to CMC, you will need to find that proper person to get it dialed and make sure they are your go to.

 

@AZTundra

If you are nearby Tempe/Mesa, I can get you in touch with my guy. Ben with AZ Toy Pros.

 

These are actually good

 

Thanks for the response. I think I'm going to proceed with the cab mount chop and keep the alignment as-is for now. Hopefully that will eliminate the new tire rub issue.

 

Good plan. CMC is a no brainer. Once its done you will have a lot of options to change tire size in the future.

 

Yeah, those alignment numbers are on point. Most likely just a BMC and you’re good.

If you’re only on 295s right now, you won’t need to do too much trimming. And with 25 offset, you’re in the sweet spot. Going outside of 25 and 18 and getting anywhere closer to 0 will require more trimming and cutting as you increase tire size.

And it’s a lot, if you’re looking at 37s in the far future.

Get as an aggressive BMC as you can get.

 

How are these numbers? Just did 5100s set middle setting and a coachbuilder 1/4 shim on each side so I'm up 2inches?

 

It all depends on what you’re trying to achieve really. There’s no set numbers, but the numbers you’d aim for would allow you to fit bigger tires without rubbing.

Are you still on stock UCA? What are you planning to run as far as wheel and tire set up?

That’ll help us guide you through getting better alignment numbers for your truck!

 

Yeah stock ucas, I'm running method wheels with plus 25 offset with 265 75 18s at the moment. I plan on going up a little bigger tires later on . I just don't want to chew up tires

 

Nice!! Yeah man, once you start looking at larger tires, 285 and 295 requires just some plastic removal, 35x12.5 requires BMC. Then you can play around with caster to move your tire away from body mount so you won’t rub as much.

 

IMO you might get feathering/cupping due to toe.

 

I'm going to take it to the dealership and see if they can't dial it in a little more, thanks

 

Hi all, I purchased some 18” OEM alloy wheels and had 285/70 tires installed the other day (5100s in front mid setting). Alignment was done, but now it pulls to the right and steering wheel needs 11 o’clock position to drive straight. Nothing jumped out to me when I compared numbers, was hoping somebody could take a look and see if there is an obvious issue here?


thanks!