Head unit upgrade

No worries at all! I’m sure OP is totally cool with it and the diagrams I posted would be helpful to anyone replacing the head unit and amp, and OP said previously he might install a gifted head unit or get a new one so he might want the info as well! Cheers!

 

Sorry I missed the 2nd edit on your post. To answer your question yes, you can run RCA’s from your head unit to your new amp when you get it, for the input side of things. Output wires on the 12 and 10 pin harnesses respectively would plug into their corresponding outputs on your new amp. While it’s not hard to pull the head unit at any time, to save yourself the trouble I’d recommend connecting and running your RCA’s when you install your XAV-9000. I too bought from the guys at TrailGridPro and couldn’t be happier!

For RCA’s I went with a 6 channel cord just so everything was bundled together. Made it ever so slightly more annoying to route the cable but I didn’t have any huge barriers. I went with this one from Crutchfield: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hnRw2...JT8KiE7yJUaj_-rPH2T2CHRZMSuvwPucaAriPEALw_wcB


I know other people like Stinger and other brands, but so far no complaints with the T-Spec and $40 seemed reasonable for a 6-ch cable but I’m sure you could find cheaper on Amazon or Sonic Electronix had Stinger 4000 series but it was a flat cable and for looming the wire i wanted round.

Check out Trail Grid Pro’s video on installing their front camera kit, just to see how easy it is to pop off the trim piece above the glove box. When you have the head unit out you can reach in and push that piece out super easy, and then you’ve got great access to route your rca cables across the dash, and down to the footwell. The passenger footwell kick panel is easy to remove, just don’t lose the plastic screw that holds it on! Once you’ve got that out, the floor trim pops off easily by hand and then you can route your RCA’s to under the passenger seat and zip tie or tape them coiled up and tape capped off so that when you get a new amp, your signal wires are right there and you don’t have to monkey with pulling the head unit again.

Another nice thing about the XAV-9000, the factory backup camera wires into the harness and will come pre-wired from Trail Grid. There are an additional 2 RCA camera inputs! I bought a front camera off Amazon and installed it in my grill to have a front camera for parking and I love it! ~$50 mod that took a few hours to install.

Last thing, be sure to take a picture or write down which color RCA’s you plug into each channel behind your head unit!

 

how could i even be remotely bothered after all the help i’ve been given… hijack away!!

 

On a different note, when your amp comes in, I'd recommend carefully opening it and saving the packaging and then doing a basic test fit on the amp rack along with the LC7i. I think it should fit no problem but it is a little on the long side. Worst case scenario you place it diagonally on the amp rack. If you post a top down pic of the amp rack, amp, and LC7i, I can also help with wiring layout.

 

This even got me thinking - run the RCA's and remove the LOC in my setup.
17 feet. yikes thats alot. LOL

 

Yeah lol, in my case I needed all that length to get from the head unit to behind the rear seats, for under the passenger seat something like 12ft would probably suffice.

I must have missed it @purplenova , do you have an aftermarket head unit? I was thinking you had kept the stock one.

 

I just recently installed the Dasaita



Holy crap finger prints everywhere - lol

 

@Snert - has there been any mention of ring terminals or spade terminals for the wire ends?

When I installed my amp wiring and the LOC connections, i went to my local install shop
and purchased a hand full of connectors for almost nothing.

Could help @hvychev77 save some money.

 

Nice! From a quick google, it looks like the Daisaita has RCA outputs for FL, FR, RL, RR, and a mono sub output. It also says that it outputs up to 50w for the speaker wire channels. Coincidentally your Kenwood X8105 says that head unit input can be up to 50w for input:



It also states it has signal sensing turn on so no need for a remote wire.
You could certainly run RCA wires and ditch the LC7i, but since the X8105 also accepts high level input on the RCA channels up to 50w and 5 volts,



You could use the input wires coming off your 12 pin along with some speaker wire to RCA adapters, or those solderless RCA plugs I linked, and wire from your head unit to your amp like this:



And you wouldn't have to worry about a sub input as your amp can derive a subwoofer channel from the FL,FR,RL,RR inputs if you set your Input Selector Switch to AB.

If you decided to run RCA's, since your head unit has a mono sub output and your amp has a bi channel input, you could either do the same AB Input Selector switch thing, or you could get a mono to dual rca cable to use for input.

Many options!

Good point! I think I missed that in the miscellaneous supplies I listed. I think he should be good on ring terminals if he got the Crutchfield amp wiring kit, but as far as spade terminals, definitely want to pick up a pack of ~50 of those to have on hand.

@hvychev77 any old spade terminals or fork terminals will do, you'll probably want the "red" ones that take the smallest wire gauge as opposed to blue or yellow. You could get a pack like these on Amazon that are the same wire gauge just different colors to keep them straight which might be nice:

$10 Teansic 200 Pcs 22-16 AWG #8 Black & Red Insulated Fork Spade Wire Connector U Type Electrical Crimp Terminals (100 Pcs Red +100 Pcs Black)

Teansic 200 Pcs 22-16 AWG #8 Black & Red Insulated Fork Spade Wire Connector U Type Electrical Crimp Terminals (100 Pcs Red +100 Pcs Black): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

Sorry, I went back a page and it appears to have jumbled my screenshots.

 

@Snert - thats a good point on the speaker wire to RCA adapters.
Then i wouldnt need miles long RCA's -

Alright - im done hijacking @hvychev77 thread !!!

 

Lmao yes so long as things work how they should, it would save you the trouble of having to pull the head unit again and running the RCA's, not that it's terribly difficult, but hey the less work the better, and overall the more simple the signal chain, the better. Less chance for interference etc.

I didn't expect this thread to snowball as much as it has and I know people sometimes get tense about thread hijacking, but in this case I think people have popped in and out and there's been a ton of valuable info shared by everyone and hopefully everyone's learned a thing or two about options for upgrading!

 

Good idea on the 6 channel! Ordering today. Glad to hear you like the HU from Trailgrid. Will i still need a remote turn on wire when i install an amp?

 

That will depend on the amp, but I will generally say that MOST, but not all, amps nowadays have some form of signal sensing so probably not. In the event you do, it would be easy to grab a remote signal at the factory amp location.

 

I take back what I said! Since your Daisaita head unit appears to put out 23 watts RMS, at 4 ohms, and your amp only accepts up to 5.0 volts of input, you would either need to keep the LOC, or run RCA cables, my bad! My head has been spinning answering questions and I overlooked that!

 

It's all good.

 

Where did you see 23 watts rms? My documentation and the desc from their site indicate 4 @ 50

 

Maybe this is a different model than yours, I just pulled it up on Amazon because I couldn't find the specs on their website. The amazon description lists 4x50 peak, 4x23 RMS:

$649 Dasaita Android 13 Car Stereo for Toyota Tundra 2014-2021 with Wireless Apple Carplay & Android Auto, 10.2" Touch Screen Head Unit, GPS Radio, 8G RAM 256G ROM, Bluetooth 5.0, 5G WiFi, 4G LTE

Amazon.com: Dasaita Car Stereo for Toyota Tundra 2014-2021 with Wireless Apple Carplay & Android Auto, 4G LTE, 10.2" Touch Screen Head Unit, GPS Radio, 8G RAM 256G ROM, Bluetooth, WiFi, Android 13 : Electronics

 

Thats interesting - that is "Like" mine almost all the details are same except for a couple items that i see quickly.
The Screen on mine is QLED not LCD
The Amp Chip is TDA7808 not 7850

They have another model with a "Vivid" launcher but i believe it Android 11 with PX6 Chip.

Seems as if the Amazon item has "same" but "different" internals
G13 - HA2220H2-G13-CP-HD-Plus-4
Vivid -HA2220-Vivid11-CP-HD-4

They also have an older G12 - which is supposed to designate the Android level.
So maybe mine is the "latest and greatest" LOL

I Dont Know !!! LOL

 

In any case, 20 watts rms is roughly 9 volts on the outputs, and 50 would be closer to 14 volts. Your amp accepts up to 5 volts so well below the safe threshold. My amp accepts up to I believe 8 volts, whereas the Infinity Reference that hvychev77 got accepts up to 20v, so it can handle even a fairly highly amped signal as input. Since he is keeping the stock head unit for now, his output signal voltage from the stock head unit is likely much lower and closer to a pre-amp signal voltage, which then gets amped/boosted when it gets to the factory amp.

I can't find output voltage for the RCA outputs on any of the Daisaita head units, but it is presumably closer to a pre-amp level of 2 volts or so, which brings us back full circle to the idea that if you want to remove the LC7i, you'd be best off just running a set of RCA's for input rather than using RCA speaker wire adapters.

 

hi folks, so i've received everything but my amp rack and replacement speakers / subs. I was looking at all the shiny new bits yesterday, and have a question on the harness. The 12 pin connector goes from factory plug to the LC7i, RCA Cables (3 sets) go from LC7i to amplifier, and the 10 pin connector goes from factory plug to the amplifier. Correct? Will there be any wires on the harness that isn't connected to something? I have all the diagrams printed, thank you so much for those, and i'm feeling fairly confident.

 

Go back and look at pic in post #64.

Input is the LC7i - signal goes in
RCA - transfer sound/signal to amp inputs
Output is Amp - sound comes out to speakers

Looks like pin/wires - 4,8,10 will be terminated/not used
3,7 will go to LOC
9 - may be needed for amp turn on LOC to Amp

I had to use 9 for amp turn on, with my setup.
I called CF and they instructed me to do so when signal
wasnt strong enough to turn it on. You may not need #9.

@Snert - please correct if I'm mistaken

 

Here's the diagram from this thread earlier... I was just wanting to confirm this is correct, and i also thought i may have a spare wire or two not used as well so... We'll see what Snert comes back with. I owe you guys some beers!!

 

Nope I think you nailed it! Only thing is maybe #3 would be the wire to turn on the LOC? It's labeled as ACC which is akin to remote, but if yours works with #3 for power and #9 for remote, it must not matter! @hvychev77 look back to post #68 for the wiring diagram.

To visualize the LC7i to amp pathway with the actual equipment:



Wires #3 and #9 on the 10-pin may be switched. Your amp should auto turn on when it senses signal on the RCA inputs from the LC7i, but if it doesn't, you would just add a wire from the LC7i remote out to the small "Rem" slot between the big red and black wires on your amp.

 

Sorry I had a draft going and didn't see your post until I posted mine, ignore the first part of my message about referring back to post 68, that should match this one I just made!

 

Alright, got my amp rack now in hand and all the goodies... Hoping to bring good news back from the weekend!! Thanks again for all the help through this, i can't thank you folks enough. Stay tuned...

 

Before you get too far, I'd test fit your amp on the amp rack to make sure everything will fit properly since that amp is kind of long. As long as it does, one of the first things I'd do besides running your power wire, is disconnect your battery and remove the passenger seat. Set the amp rack in its approximate location so you can see where the factory wires come in, where your power wire will come in etc. That way you can get the amp and LOC locations on the amp rack, and figure out where your input and output wires will go, along with your power and ground wires. Nothing worse than pre-wiring an amp rack only to find out something doesn't reach etc., or some wires won't fit or route a certain way, and having to redo it. Best of luck!

 

I appreciate the suggestion. That's exactly what i had planned. I did do some preliminary laying out of the LC7i and the amp, but nothing buttoned down until i get under the seat. I'm hopefully starting on this tomorrow afternoon sometime. Wife ain't happy, i gotta leave her ride out in the elements for a day or two

 

Boooyah… worked great!!! @ Snert & Purplenova, i can't thank you guys enough!! I'm really pleased with the increase volume. Now I'll have to dig into upgrading speakers... All in all this took me about 4 hours on Saturday to finish up. Again, thanks so much for the help. All the diagrams helped so much. Only issue i had was i did in fact need to run a remote wire from the LOC to the amp. Other than that, all good!!

 

NICE !!!!!