Has anybody converted their back slider window to power?

The rear sliding window is pretty useless without power. Wondering if anyone else has done something similar to this. I found this mod on a tacoma forum, and would love to do it, but am afraid I'll break the window or something.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/converting-sliding-rear-window-to-power.64816/

also found this description (long read feel free to skip it)
Hey I have a DBL Cab 2010 Prerunner and that manual rear window was just about useless. So I looked at the available window from CR Lawrence and didn't want to drop that amount of coin, plus when you pull out a glued in window you scratch the heck out of the window frame, so I found another way it only cost me $115.00 dollars. I bought a mini linear actuator with a 12 inch stroke and a momentary on/off/on switch. It just so happens that the slider glass only travels about 12.125 inches. The linear actuator was capable of moving 8lbs and the rate of travel was 1.5in/sec. So it opens and closes at a decent pace. The actuator isn't visible from inside the cab, it tucks behind the upper edge of the rear seat. it works like a champ.... The only issue is the actuator is a little noisy, but I figure I can handle it for about 8 seconds. Has anybody else came up with a way to open and close the rear window?

Here is the information for the actuator Mini Style 12" Stroke 8lbs Force Linear Actuators 12v [FA-MS-8-12-12"]$59.00 (on Sale), Mounting Bracket for all Mini Actuators (FA-MS SERIES ACTUATORS ONLY)[MB4] $12.00, Manual "Momentary" Rocker Switch [MAN-RS2] $18.00, Source of supply;www.firgelliauto.com. I had the wire and connectors on hand, I don't think it took more then about $115.00 to purchase everything and get it operational.

Ok here is a little more information for you, I hope this helps. In post #9 you will find most of the items I used to install this linear actuator to operate the rear sliding window of my dbl cab prerunner.
When I first received the actuator I used a 9volt transistor battery to operate it, this way I could ensure it was full closed and ready for installation.
I then had to decide how to mount the brackets, the one mounted to the glass slider was easy as it simply had to be glued in place, and like I said earlier in the post I decided to use super glues five minute epoxy.
Now for the rear bracket I started off on a tangent of some real complicated bracket design, then I realized that the actual weight this actuator was moving was minimal at best so I scaled back my design and made it very simple. I looked at the window and noticed that there was a thick piece of flat rubber that was pretty hard and could probably support the bracket and actuator. I had a piece of plastic lying around, it was simulated carbon fiber, just a little thicker than 1/8 inch. I cut a piece 1 1/8 inches by 4 ½ inches long. This allowed me to use some #8 x ¾ inch self tapping sheet metal screws to mount it to the piece of rubber. I mounted the bracket to the piece of plastic with a couple of #8 x ½ inch machine screws and nuts.
Once I had that installed I placed the closed actuator on the rear bracket and inserted the pin. I then got the other bracket and placed it on the actuator rod and inserted the pin. I then mixed up my epoxy and applied it to the bracket and held it against the window until it set-up. At this point the actuator was installed and ready to be wired.
To disable the latch on the sliding rear window I had a couple of black rubber faucet washers and a black ty-rap, I slid the ty-rap through the washer holes and then placed the washer between the latch and glass and tightened down the ty-rap. This keeps the latch from engaging and locking the slider. You need not worry about locking your slider after this is installed as the actuator is stronger than the latch and can’t be manually forced open.
I then chose a place to mount my switch, it’s not a factory Toyota switch so it doesn’t match the interior. I wanted a place that would be easily reachable but out of site. So I decided to mount it in the console, at first I simply used some double sided foam tape. I now have made a more respectable bracket which you can see in the picture.
I took my power from the 4WD fuse location under the dash with a power tap which is controlled by the ignition switch. The actuator does not use much power, less than an amp to operate. (Note: I am not much for crimp on connectors, I solder everything and use shrink tubing).
To wire the switch go to:http://www.dclinearactuators.com/linear-actuators/how-to-wire-a-linear-actuator-to-a-rocker-switch/
This should cover just about everything, if you have any questions just ask; I am happy to help. My window is working great I have opened and closed it over 100 times no issues.

No, didn't figure out the latch removal...yet. I do want to mention however, that if anyone else is considering this mod they should use the non-momentary switch that Firgelli Automations offers. I got the momentary switch as I did not realize they sell 2 different switches. The reason I say this is because it takes 8 seconds for the window to fully open/close and your finger needs to stay on the momentary switch for that length of time. The actuator has built in limit switches so it automatically shuts off when fully open and when fully closed and if you wanted to stop it anywhere along the way you can just move the button to the middle position. The non-momentary switch (part# MAN-RS) is definitely the way to go.


Just got this done this weekend. I still need to trim some more to get the switch mounted right (switch blanks under the radio). I didn't take pics as it looks exactly like the OPs, except for switch location. A few notes that I took (some new, some not):

o it is noisier then I thought, even though the OP warned on it. My two boys laugh when I open or close it as it sounds like a cheap robot toy....
o I got a chunk of 1/8 alum fromHome Depotto make the mounting plate, was $10 and only used a small piece, but it worked well.
o I painted everything flat black except for the bottom of the mounting brackets. Didn't think the epoxy would hold the painted bracket too well.
o for the mounting bracket that is screwed/bolted to the mounting plate, be careful with the head size, as I had to remove the front screw since it wouldn't allow the actuator to come down fully level.
o as stated it uses very little current. I used some left-over garage door sensor wire that I had laying around. It's a thin single strand wire, double wire, so it was stiffer than multi-strand and made it easier to route through the panels and floor channels.

 

Pretty sure theres a recent thread on this that I saw a day or two ago

 

Must have missed it I'll search, thx

 

Searched a couple of times and found nothing. Guess it will go on the back burner until I have $$$ for a new back window just in case I break it. My main worry is if I don't mount it perfect I'm afraid the stress of the actuator at an angle will blow the window out.