Gear Oil Change Timing and Cost

I took my new to me 2011 in to Toyota for alignment after I put on my 5100 Setup. While there the service guy recommended a coolant flush. It seemed logical so I had him do it.

the truck has 29k on it, just below the 30k gear oil maintenance recommendation in the book...so I asked about it. They quoted approximately $109 per diff, and transfer case. He then said it’s probably unnecessary unless the truck has been towing a lot or off-road, which it has done none of either from what I can tell.

questions -

1) what does the community think? Should I change gear oils now or let it go a while longer? I can DIY and likely would since the quoted price seems crazy high to me.

2) what oils do you typically use? The dealer mentioned needing an additive for the LSD. My past practices on other vehicles is either Amsoil or redline product, or OEM.

thanks for the input.

 

1. Front/rear diff at 30k is fine, transfer case doesn’t need to be changed for quite a while longer, though it might be a good idea based on age of your truck.

2. Toyota OEM or Redline 75w85 is what I’d recommend, any 75w90 will work as well. No 07+ Tundras come with a factory LSD (“auto LSD” is a brake based electronic system) so your dealer is pulling your leg.

 

Good to know about the LSD. So it is not a mechanical limited slip? Was that even an option? If not, it makes fluid choice easier for sure.

 

no and no, there are a few aftermarket options though

 

You are probably good for awhile but I like to be proactive . Do the rear diff your self for less than 30 bucks.

 

thats about what I would expect to spend. If the dealer would swap them both for $100 I would have said do it but $100 each is nuts.

Anyone have a link to a diff oil change DIY?

 

It's a simple job. 24mm drain plug as I recall. Takes longer to refill the diff case than anything.

 

I've ran all the fancy oils and have circled back to supertech. Easy to get and meets spec. Affordable enough to swap out every couple years.

Be ready to have a plan B if your drain/fill bolts have never been cracked open. This was my front drain. Had to use an air chisel to walk it out.

 

https://youtu.be/3iNYj2Wli7I

This guy has a video for each own, front, transfer, and rear. Extremely simple diy.

Also, Amsoil makes these for an even easier job.
https://www.amsoil.com/lander/easypack/

 

Supertech is perfectly fine, made by Warren, they do a bunch of private labels like Kirkland (Costco), etc.

 

I used Amsoil 75w90 in the diffs and Ravenol in the transfer case. Changed both @75k miles, both diffs was their first time being changed, the magnets were covered pretty good and the oil looked pretty wrecked. Transfer case fluid was dark but not past its life span, felt good putting fresh fluid in for peace of mind. Next up is Amsoil in the trans.

 

Im gone try AMSOIL in my trans next. I just did a full flush 2k miles ago so it will be a while. Just make sure you drop that pan and clean the gunk and magnets first! Save yourself a lot of aggravation

 

Didn’t watch the video, so maybe this is redundant.

Always make sure you can remove the fill plug first before you even consider cracking the drain.

The vehicle must be level to get the correct amount of fluid in.

While you have all 4 wheels off the ground, lube the u-joints on the drive shafts, as well. I use Mobil 1 synthetic, don’t cheap out. You will need to rotate the wheels to turn the driveshaft in order to get the grease fittings accessible.


Greg

 

You get much better pricing than I do from my dealer. They wanted $185 per axle. It made doing it myself feel much better.

 

Yep watched a video from Don's Oil. Gonna follow his procedure minus the laser thermometer and lean the magnets and change the filter.

 

Good grief. You'd need to file a police report when you were done.