Front Springs / Shocks

My 2001 TRD sits at least 1" lower on the RH front side. I can't see a crack in the spring, but the RH front upper coils are definitely closer together than the LH. The truck has 305K and appears to be wearing the original Bilsteins too, so I think new springs and shocks are in order.

Options seem to be limited. The only thing that Rock Auto carries is fully assembled ready strut type assemblies with shock and spring and they show no difference between TRD and standard. Seems similar at other parts stores. It's a work truck for me, so I'm not interested in lifting it or off road performance, but I do want to get the proper size components.

Any recommendations for what shocks and springs to get and where to get them?

 

Fully assembled strut with OEM comparable springs and Bilstein 4600 shocks would be my recommendation.

Im sure some of the guys here could make a recommendation like 1st gen off-road site.

Cheapest route is OEM TRD springs with the 4600 shocks if you don’t mind compressing them and assembling yourself.

 

I would love to do that, but I can't find such a thing. I can find the 4600s but not with the springs assembled. And no standard height springs alone.

I can get different Bilsteins assembled for silly money (nearly a grand for the pair) or there are lots of cheap, off brand assemblies and a few lesser name brands like Monroe, but none specifically for the TRD. Lots of choices if I want to lift it, which I don't.

 

You might be better served finding a set of used OEM springs (or buying new ones) and putting them on 4600's with new top hats.

 

I went for the RockAuto cheapos (FCS ~ $50 ea), and they've served me well for ~ 3 years. I saved the OEM TRD springs, and I plan to put new 4600s back on...maybe this year (who knows, the truck rides just fine for now).

 

You may end up having to piece together a set or go semi-custom/ upgrade. Shock, spring and mount, all assembled for about $6-700 if you do the install yourself... Or go to a local shop with all the parts and see if they will assemble them for you for cheap (ish) and then you do the install...

 

Where are you located? I have a 130k mile used take off front coils and struts (unassmbled) off my 2006 DC in Southern Utah. Rears too. From Arizona all its life. Would love to see them put to good use.

 

I don't mind doing the work, in fact I prefer it. I've changed a number of struts so I'm familiar with working with spring compressors etc. I was planning on installing whatever I bought myself.

I'm on central Ohio. Would the springs from your 2006 DC be the same as my 2001 TRD Access Cab? If so, and depending on what you want for them and what shipping would be, I'd be interested. I'll send you a PM.

 

It looks like they don't interchange. Looking at oemgenuieparts.com and parts.toyota.com, my 2001 uses PNs 48131-AF090 & 48131-AF100. Your 2006 DC uses a number of different numbers, 48131-AF270, 48131-Af280, 48131-AF310, and 48131-AF320. Looks like the 310/320 are the TRD. (It also looks like there is no difference in FR springs for 2001 TRD & base since only one set of numbers is listed.)

Maybe the 2001 & 2006 are interchangeable, but I'm not sure how to determine that.

 

https://www.mckenzies.com/search?page=4&q=eibach

progressive springs?
https://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/coilsuspension.php

 

I was going to recommend toyotec eibach coils as a replacement to the TRD springs but you lose out on the progressive rate feature which aren’t easy to find in replacements.

Also, I’m not a user of them so I’d verify the size in height and width are similar as well as force i.e. 600 lb coils.

 

Maybe? Looks like I'd need to know what dimensions I need and I bet they're pricey.

Honestly, this is sounding like a good way to go, especially since I learned that in 2001 there doesn't seem to be a specific TRD spring (see post 9). Less than $150 shipped. This is a 305K mile truck primarily used for Home Depot runs and to keep my Boxster out of the snow. Those are probably just fine for what I need.

 

The main difference in the TRD trucks are the OEM bilstein shocks with TRD specific coils. Can you use a basic assembled coil-over? Yeah absolutley it just won't be the same as OE. I recommend staying away from the monroe pre assembled stuff. I haven't really heard good things. I'm pretty sure I've seen preassembled 4600 shocks before I just don't recall where.

Edit: Upon closer inspection it seems all the preassembled 4600's that I have seen around are for Tacoma's. For the tundra it looks like they assume you'll reuse the factory spring.

 

Two different items for L/R
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4433589&cc=1375365&pt=15174&jsn=479

 

I wouldn't put Monroe/Gabriel/etc. shocks on one of my vehicles if they were given to me... seriously. It's not a job I want to be doing and redoing every couple years. Also figure in the cost of an alignment every time you replace them, and any savings from the cheap parts is negated.

@salguod The 1" difference in ride height from left to right could be that the strut on one side has lost its gas charge. I'd buy Bilsteins for the front and rear, and reuse the old springs. IMHO, you're better off with 300K mile OEM Toyota springs than with new Monroe/Gabriel/Chinese Knockoff springs.

 

I considered this, but I don't think it makes sense once you think about it.

The shocks don't support the weight of the truck, the springs do. The shock is there to control the wheel motion and to keep the tire on the road. You've probably seen cars with completely blown shocks and the wheel bounces down the road uncontrolled. And I've had cars in that condition and you can feel it in how they drive.

I suppose that the gas charge in the shock provides a very small amount of support for the weight, but if it were gone I'd also expect a lot of bouncing from that wheel and I'd feel it in the steering wheel, but I don't have any of that.

 

Correct, the gas charge does provide some support of weight... not a lot, but some. And 1" of difference side to side is not a lot of variation. But the primary purpose of the gas charge is to reduce foaming of the oil. A shock/strut can lose its gas charge and still provide damping.

 

I just realized I have a spare leveling spacer that gives 3/4-1". You'll just need either longer studs (wheelers offroad has them) or maybe shorter flange nuts from the hardware store.

If you want them pm me, just pay for the shipping.

 

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure I have a broken or fatigued spring. I bought a set from Rock Auto and I'll be putting them on soon.

 

Checking in on this post. What did you go with? Did it help with your sag? I have the same problem on the drivers side and am wondering how exactly i am going to fix it.

 

I bought the FCS from rock auto, but I haven't put them on yet. The truck ended up as my daily all winter, the Boxster was laid up with a bad starter and all my free time was going into a bath remodel. That's pretty much done now and the Boxster is back on the road, so I hope to do the springs this week.

 

I got the old ones off and laid them side by side with the new ones. Some observations:

No broken springs. I expected the R was broken, based on how it sat, but it wasn't.

Different struts R & L. This, I expect, is what's causing the R side to sit lower. Clearly different types R & L. Although, side by side each is similar in length to the new ones. Maybe differences in spring rates R to L with the different brands? We'll see when I get it together.

Both sides had blown lower bushings.

Truck needs brake pads, one brake hose and stabilizer links, lol.

Here are some pics:

 

It is true the coil over(strut to you) right to left is different but to my knowledge, the fuel tank, battery cause our Tundras to have a driver side lean lower not right ?

 

I think the OEM Toyota springs were different rates L to R to compensate for that to make it level, but I'm not certain of that. A friend told me his old Tacoma was that way so it makes sense that Toyota would do it on the Tundra too.

But that's not what I'm talking about. If you look at my old units, they are not the same design and seem to be different manufacturers. That tells me that at some point one FR unit got replaced and it's possible the spring rates are different.

 

I see you have the old off now and have already bought new but they do make a preassembled 4600 set now. They just started very recently.
LINK

 

Yeah, $700 for all 4 for is a bit much for a $2500 310K truck. These Rock Auto units were about $150 for the pair. So far, they are a little soft but should do OK.

 

I got it all done last weekend and it dos seem more level right to left.

Of course, once I was in there I found a lot of other stuff that needed done. Both stabilizer links were broken, one brake hose had a wear mark, and the pads were shot. Trying to replace the pads revealed that the inner caliper pistons were frozen. And I twisted both short brake hard lines off.

So, she's got new shocks and springs plus, new calipers, short brake hard lines, pads, stabilizer links and a brake hose.

Last year she got new rear springs, rides almost like a new truck. Almost.