First timer

Hello all!
Long time lurker first time poster here. I have a 2005 4x4 phantom grey tundra DC. Bought it off my dad about 3 years ago after wrecking my car. It’s been an amazing truck and I’ve done all the standard maintenance. I’ve changed the upper and lower ball joints, water pump and timing belt, struts and shocks, fan and shroud in the last 3 years. I’ve painted the accents of the truck black and like it much more than the chrome. Still working on upgrading the truck now that I’ve got the major maintenance out of the way but it will be a long process since things are expensive these days.

 

While I have you hear I am in need of some help. When I replaced the struts, I added a 2 in level to the truck. I’ve been reading in the other discussions that 275x70x17 is the largest tire to size up without rubbing. Does anyone know if 33 x 10.5 x 17 would fit without rubbing or trimming instead? I like the idea of a larger diameter without increasing the width but don’t know much about tires and could really use some help.

 

I have 2” lift. I rub with 275/70r17. The tire you’re asking about is significantly bigger larger diameter.

Nice truck. Hope you went with OEM lower ball joints or it may not look that nice for long

Welcome to the fray!

 

THis may help you: It’s the diameter that hurts more than the width IMHO.

 

Yeah I understand it’s almost an inch larger diameter than the 275x70x17 but it’s less wide. Just thinking maybe it wouldn’t rub since it’s not as wide?

and yes everything I’ve used to replace have been from the dealership or Aesin stuff that I’ve read here on the forum! The only poor part is I had rough country shocks. I know nobody likes them but I got them from a friend barely used for really cheap so it just worked out for me. I plan on getting Bilstein 5110 once I save up!

 

Yeah Rough Country is trash, hopefully it doesn’t fuck anything up in the meantime.

I really think diameter is your rub risk. Unless you have a new adjustable uppers that would allow for way more caster than OEM would allow, I can’t see how it’d work w/o rub. You may also want to look into weights on tires. Running 275/70r17, my tire weight almost doubled. Truck is more sluggish. I lost almost 2mpg. I can’t use cruise control [edit: above 60mph] on anything except perfectly flat land without it hunting, upshifting, etc. Are you planning to regear to overcome some of these obstacles?

 

Welcome from the valley

 

I hadn’t planned on regearing. I don’t tow too often or haul. Just when the wife needs me to take a dump trip or move some furniture.

 

Would you recommend 265x70x17 instead then? That’s only slightly larger than my stock tires of 265x65x17 which look very small for the lift that I have on it.

 

My issues with gear hunting were with plain old interstate driving. And that was with a cap on, so more aerodynamic/leas drag. And my truck has under 80k miles … it ain’t like anything is worn out. Had I known this would be the case ahead of time I’d have gone with a 1.25” - 1.5” lift, and rolled with 265/70r17.

 

Curious, what is your lift in the rear currently?

 

Welcome from NY.

 

good to know. Thanks for the info!

 

It’s the same lift as the front. Looking back I wish I had either left it without a lift on the back and just leveled it. Or done an add a leaf 1 inch in the rear. Maybe when I have more time I’ll replace it.

 

Here fren
I use this all the time, its a comparison calculator which allows you to plug in a known tire size, like your stockers, and compare how big and wide a different tire will be. It all depends on your offset of your wheel, and how wide the wheel is, and how large of a diameter and how wide the tire is. Its a funny dance you must learn to play. Listed below is a wheel offset calculator to compare your OEM wheels vs anything else if you get a wild hair to try out different wheels. If you go out to your truck now, and measure the gap between the tire and the upper A-arm, and then turn the wheel full lock and measure the gap between the corner of the tread of the tire and the mud flap area, you can kinda gauge how much bigger you can go in width and diameter.

Here is your stock wheel specs : 17" wheels - Width: 7.5", Offset: +18mm, Backspacing: 5", Hub Bore Diameter = 106mm
Here is your stock tire specs : 265/65x17 = 30.6" x 10.4" x 17"

I have ran 305/50-20 General Grabber on Limited 4runner wheels which are 20x7-15mm backspace which pushes the inner lip of the wheel further outward by 10mm to help get the tire further away from the upper A-arm. I ran these with a completely stock suspension, nothing added, and only rubbed at full lock against the mud flap (it was only a few sheets of paper between the tire and A-arm but it cleared). I could have removed the mud flap but i really like the mud flaps on so i then got 275/55-20 General Grabbers and i do not rub anywhere (except maybe once in a blue moon on a turn, up a hill like driveway entrance on the mud flap)

 

Thanks! It’s late where I’m at and too dark to see but I’ll check the measurements tomorrow! Thanks for the help!

 

With the amount of lift you have, and the stock wheels, the major thing i think you will have to worry about is the tire touching the upper A-arm. My 275 wide, touches the A-arm when i jack the truck up, but at my lower height of stock front suspension the 275 clears the A-arm.

I found this out the hard way, when i measured my stock wheels and tires to get an idea of what i could fit. Measuring the A-arm to tire clearance at ride height, gave me the space i knew i needed to clear the 305/50-20 on the Limited wheels which pushed the wheel further outward.
I ordered the wheels, powder coated them, ordered the tires and when i jacked the truck up to put them on, i couldnt get the wheels on. The angle of the A-arm changes when you jack the front end up. The tire hit the A-arm so bad i couldnt get half the lug nuts started, i had to put a smaller floor jack under the A-arm and jack it up, to reduce the angle of the upper A-arm in relation to the spindle, to get the clearance to start the lug nuts. Once the weight was on the vehicle there was clearance between the A-arm and tire but it was VERY minimal.
With a 2" lift i would have to cut the upper A-arm otherwise i would chew into the side biters of the tire and wear a groove in the side of the tire.
With the 275/55-20 i can not stick a finger between the tire and upper A-arm, i cant even get the tip of my pinky between them, same case, at full droop the tire is hitting the A-arm and doesnt get clearance until i put weight on the vehicle and the suspension goes to full compression at ride height. With the amount of lift you have, those stock wheels, you are going to be hitting the A-arm first i would bet, and then rub at the mud flap area next.

 

I genuinely do not understand the obsession with rubbing. Light rubbing at speeds under 3mph is not a big deal. And I'm an anal bastard with most things.

I think 275/70/17 is the smallest tire I would even consider running. Anything less does not look good if you leveled the front.

 

when it limits how far you can turn, it slightly kinda becomes a problem on these big long beluga whales like mine. They don’t turn the greatest and if you limit it further it’s almost sorta a big deal.
I don’t like the sound, pulling into a parking spot and letting everyone within 75 feet know my tires are rubbing with that unmistakable sound
“BLAAAAHHHHHHHhhhPlapPlapPlapPlop”

 

That’s why I don’t want to rub. The turning radius already isn’t the greatest and rubbing would just make it worse. I’ll keep in mind what you said about the A arm and check to see what clearance I’ll have as to not rub it. Thanks for the heads up!

 

I mean … Rubbing is important because people don’t like it when things that weren’t meant to hit other things are hitting other things. Friction is awesome for sex and tire traction, not so much with tires on frame and plastics. Anything you rub thru - whether it’s paint on your frame, or your mud flaps - comes with some form of consequence. If you’re not getting any gain (other than looks and more tire meat), but end up with consequences of damage, what’s the point?

It’s all relative. You (@FirstGenVol) only rubbed flaps and a little frame with your setup, so you may be biased. You pulled your flaps, which may have the consequence of rusting out your cab/fender sheet metal faster than others who didn’t (via mud/moisture collection), and the frame rub, well, I think that’s fixed now, but in the rust belt, that could result in hastened frame rust if not dealt with constantly.

I learned my lesson on previous cars about mud/rubbish getting trapped in the quarter panels and cab corners, so when I rubbed flap I opted to trim the rub spots out because I don’t want another rust problem. I virtually never rub after trimming, but I still rub up in the fender liner if I’m turning and seeing shock compression. Thankfully my backspacing is at least favorable to keep my tires off my suspension and frame. I’m sure if I added more caster I could probably mostly-correct those rubs, but I can only do that easily because of my aftermarket uppers, which OP doesn’t have.

To each their own. But it’s absolutely worth warning people about it. Because nothing sucks worse than dropping all that money upgrading your vehicle only to realize the change you made has consequences you weren’t expecting. It’s the only reason I am always bringing up rub - what doesn’t matter much to you can potentially mean a lot to others.

I also disagree on going smaller than 275/70r17 not looking good. After customizing more vehicles than I can count, I can tell you with 100% confidence: Aesthetic appearance is absolutely proportional, its Fibonacci in nature whether you’re talking about human faces or vehicles. The sweet spot I’ve found on most vehicles, and with 1st gen Tundras seems to be adding proportional amounts of lift and tire size. With 17” wheels, what that boils down to is adding ~ 3/4” lift with each tire step-up. Going from stock 265/65r17 up to 265/70r17? Add 3/4” lift. Going to next step at 275/70r17? Add another 3/4”. Jumping to 285/70r17? Add another 3/4” lift. Ideally I think you should keep it proportional and I realize those jumps are 1”, 0.6”, 0.6”, but for sake of simplicity I’m saying 3/4” per jump. Staying in those lanes, you’ll give the optical illusion of having more tire meat, at least on these trucks. I’ve seen it also works with the last couple generations of 4Runners too.

Just like there’s a sweet spot for visual aesthetics, it seems pretty clear there’s a backspacing sweet spot on these trucks. Wanna go 9” wide wheel? 4.3-4.5” backspace. 8.5” wide wheel? 4.6-4.8” backspace. OEM 7.5”? 5” backspace. You can stick with OEM numbers on camber/toe/caster and have almost zero risk of tire-to-suspension contact with the most popular tire sizes.

Love it or hate it, this is my 20¢ on it. I don’t think I’m far off the mark of reality here.

 

[QUOTE="shifty`, post: 3532586, member: 48239"Love it or hate it, this is my 20¢ on it. .[/QUOTE]

I got two memes I couldn’t figure which ones to use so you can have them both

on the second one you’re still in the orange so you’re good.

 

To each its own. I think 265/70/17 looks good for a classic look if leveled but anything smaller, I agree.

 

Hey all. I ended up finding a great deal on some method 318. I know this is a larger diameter and the offset and backspacing are different than the stock 17 in tires I currently have. I don’t fully understand offset/backspacing. I believe the 17 in are +12 offset while these are +40? Is that correct? And if so does that mean the wheel sticks out of the wheel well more or is it tucked under the wheel well more? What tire size would fit without rubbing using this backspacing offset of the method 18? Thanks for all the help and info!

 

No way those fit your truck. 8.5” wide with +40 offset is 6.3” backspace which puts you with tire pressing on your suspension and in frame (if no spacer used, and spacers defeat your cost savings). https://www.customwheeloffset.com/tire-wheel-backspacing-offset-calculators

OEM 7.5” wide wheel backspace is 5”

Ideal backspace at 8.5” wide wheel is 4.75”

Ideal at 9” wide wheel is 4.5”

This is a summary of the general 1st gen’ers collective experience.

 

That’s sad to hear. According to their website it says that the wheels should fit the truck.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!