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Factory JBL amp to aftermarket headunit

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Kaprice919, Nov 6, 2022.

  1. Nov 6, 2022 at 12:45 PM
    #1
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    Hey all,

    Ive got a 2005 tundra limited double cab with JBL speakers and the JBL factory amp (sits behind the rear seat). My wiring harness is a 20pin amp harness.


    Previous owner installed a pioneer head unit that came with a massive antennae, so its a rats nest of wires back there. He installed an axxess amp converter and an axxess steering wheel converter

    Capture_52b8720c8f5d73f208dd114d35a0cf39e933ce5e.jpg
    2_50414e57605b2af98c934698510cf94d1da0dfa1.jpg


    Its a gd mess back there. I'd like to rewire it to make it look nicer + put in a new BOSS head unit (preamp).

    Not sure if I should keep these axxess things or not. Is this the simplest way to wire the factory amp to a new head unit? How are you all connecting the 20pin factory amp wiring harness into your shiny new head units?
    Im not sure exactly what this axxess amp thing even does... Im assuming it makes the old amp harness compatible with the new head unit?
     
  2. Nov 6, 2022 at 6:55 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Boss products are shitware, so is Jensen, so is Atoto in general, to a lesser degree. Axxess products are absolutely killer, but you must know that's probably the Axxess adapter to make your steering wheel controls work with the radio, doubt it has anything to do with the amp. Amp bypass kits are simple wiring harnesses, there's no electronic box of any sort. They just help you extend the speaker leads currently coming off the amp back to your dash.

    The fact you're talking about "goddamn spaghetti" behind the head unit makes me wonder what the previous owner did, if your amp is even bypassed, or what the hell is going on. Without pics, I dunno how to help you, and this is something I used to do for a living :rofl:

    Have you checked your amp out to see if both harnesses are plugged into it?
    Do you have pics of the spaghetti behind the head unit?
    Help us help you here...
     
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  3. Nov 6, 2022 at 8:23 PM
    #3
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    I'd usually agree with this but I've got a 1200 watt boss amp from 2015 that's been used almost daily since new that's still kicking great. I've had another one in another vehicle for about a year too. I can't speak for their radios but their subwoofer amps are pretty good bang for the buck.
     
  4. Nov 7, 2022 at 4:55 AM
    #4
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    It's about the only component they make that was potentially worth buying, but better brands weren't more than 10%-25% more in price, making it senseless to buy. The HU are crap, the EQs/crossovers bitd were crap, it was on-par with Radio Shack's "Realistic" brand.
     
  5. Nov 7, 2022 at 5:03 AM
    #5
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    You mean you have a 400 watt Boss amp labeled "1200 watts" on it.
     
  6. Nov 7, 2022 at 5:24 AM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Yeah, and it weighs about 1/2 what it should even for a 400w :rofl:
     
  7. Nov 7, 2022 at 8:55 AM
    #7
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    great point. Sorry, I got very frustrated yesterday and lost my patience. I got some actual pictures and have better questions. Bit of context: I already replaced the head unit with the new BOSS head unit. I was able to do it by matching up the wires without understanding how anything else worked (the amp and the axxess). It worked fine for a few months until yesterday when my radio stopped working. I'd like to fix it + better understand the wires and converters.

    The amp is plugged in. Was working just fine until probably some of the wires came loose in here, or something :).

    btw this is the Axxess unit I have:
    IMG-7154_878de291b1ef40c088a30d3b989d94f69de34301.jpg



    Heres an overview of my current wiring. I circled (in green) a few places that I think might be the problem areas:
    IMG-7144_808ef13a6fdd3c39a55ddfe989751960cd05fb27.jpg
    #1) There is a thicker black wire coming from the *factory* wiring harness on my *drivers* side. What does this wire do? Its not connected, or it came unconnected when I pulled the radio out. Is it a ground wire? Not sure if black was the color code for ground in 2001. What do the drivers side factory wiring harnesses do?
    #2) This is where all the ground wires connect. One goes to the 20pin factory amp wiring harness on the passenger side - supplying ground. One goes to the BOSS. One to the Axxess. One (#3) is cut off. One (#4) has come out of somewhere.
    #5) This is the blue and white amp wire for the Axxess - which was in a wire tie but has come loose from its friends (Ill show a close up of where they connect below)

    Here is that closeup of #5

    IMG-7147_1585135a96608646e386d1075b3b603bae919587.jpg
    #1) The blue and white amp wire for the Axxess *was* connected here. The other wires pictured here are a light blue wire on top - which goes into the relay in #2 and a blue and white wire which goes back to the BOSS headunit.
    #2) What in the sam hell is this relay thing doing? Looks like it has ground, a light blue wire connecting to the other blue and white amp wires, and a white wire (#3) going back to the BOSS unit.


    Heres a closeup of that relay thing and another picture showing which pin the white wire (connected to the relay) to attached to in the BOSS
    IMG-7152_f6736c98faaa74dd5058d43bcb73ce0498e9bcf6.jpg
    IMG-7153_09991dfdad5153f2b000134272cba4658dd77942.jpg

    Sorry again for getting annoyed and thanks for all your help!
     
  8. Nov 7, 2022 at 9:16 AM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Pictures are king. Yup, that's some spaghetti right there. :rofl:

    Here's the instruction manual for that Axxess unit: https://metra-static.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/INSTTYTO-01_web.pdf
    And here's more technical info: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71Fu7ZE09XS.pdf

    I think that unit is just a simple line level converter, taking the RCA output from your radio, and adjusting it to feed your amp, so you can keep the factory amp with an aftermarket head unit, while maintaining balance/fade which is something people who chose to manually hack harnesses have complained they lost with bypassing in a more crude harness-snipping way. I think if you check your amp, mounted on the driver's side back wall of your truck, you'll find both its harnesses are intact.

    Is it the best way to go? Based on the f'n spaghetti, I'd say "No". Honestly, if it was me, unless you're particularly fond of that Axxess unit and all the extra garbage, I'd consider rewiring with a more-normal amp bypass harness. It would be a female plug that connects to the speaker output of the amp and gives you enough color-coded speaker wire to feed up to your head unit, so your head unit could start powering the speakers directly.

    And as for what that relay is, need to really look closely at that one, but gotta grab lunch first.

    PS - wire nuts are not the correct way to wire things up in car audio They're prone to vibrations. You really need to use crimped connections for those with a GOOD pair of crimpers, not the shitty cheap ones that look like this. I recommend butt splices or closed-end terminals. You're seeing the reason why to avoid wire nuts - wires slip out. They also slip out when you crimp with shit connectors; always tug-check wires after joining/crimping.
     
  9. Nov 7, 2022 at 9:19 AM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    One other Q - I see a shitload of electrical tape on the wiring leading up to your factory harness.

    Did anyone splice into the factory wiring? Are any of those lines cut, soldered, then taped? Just curious what more you may be up against.
     
  10. Nov 7, 2022 at 9:43 AM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Ok ...

    Typically, Toyota uses white wire w/black stripe for grounds, but that wire looks like it's 14ga, maybe 16ga, which is thicker than OEM would use, and black w/white stripe.

    Show us a clearer picture head-on of what the unused grey and white harnesses look like, with some wire colors showing, so I can make heads or tails of them by cross-referencing to the wiring diagrams we have posted for download here at the site.

    Do me a favor, help me understand what your BOSS radio's instructions say that white wire is. That should solve one part of the mystery. Every relay requires ground, power, and an input to toggle back/forth between 87/87A. See the diagram on the side of the relay?

    Typically you'll see a signal you need to split plugged into terminal "30", some kind of input/signaling power source and power plugged into "86" & "85". Whenever a power/signal lights up wire "86"/"85", whatever is incoming on 30 will be toggled between terminals 87 & 87A. We would need to know what's attached to "30" and "85" and "86" to understand what we're allowing to pass through to 87 and 87A.

    I can't read the spade side of the relay to see what each wire is numbered. My guess is, the installer was using the amp turn-on lead from the Axxess and tying it to position 85 or 86 as trigger power to push whatever's coming in on 30 over to 87/87A. The amp turn on comes on with the radio, so ... they wanted whatever it was to fire up at the same time as the radio goes on. But again ... without knowing what to/from is of each wire, it's tough to say.

    In your 1st big pic, black/stripe wire #1, I don't understand what the hell the single black wire coming out of the OEM harness is supposed to be b/c I can't see where it goes to under the electrical tape; I need to know what color/stripe wire it's tied into. I'm wondering if it's not a potential ground, maybe to be connected to wire #4 of the same pic. In that same pic, wire #2 looks like it's been cut, and per Axxess' documentation, that yellow wire is for power. It would appear your head unit is also tied to it; I'm guessing the Axxess unit cannot power up, and thus can't power the amp right now. Wire #5 ... according to the docs, #5 is blue w/white stripe, which is your amp turn-on lead, necessary to make the amp turn on ... I wonder if that's what the installer (Jebus, they must've been a crackhead!) was using the relay for?!

    upload_2022-11-7_12-27-59.jpg
     
  11. Nov 7, 2022 at 3:28 PM
    #11
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks so much for your help so far, I really appreciate it!

    Thats the same manual I found, which Im not sure its the right one. They show a photo of the unit and it doesnt look like what Ive got. Theirs is square and mine is curved... plus I didnt find any wiring diagrams in their manual that matched up to the correct number of pins that I have here. Which is another reason why I kind of just want to forgo using it all together like you suggested.

    You mentioned a normal amp bypass harness? What is that? How do I get one? If I could just wire that from the amp to the head-unit, that would be way more up my alley than trying to figure all this crap out.

    I dont think anyone spliced into the harness... I have a feeling they cut the original wire insulation in order to better see what the colors were, and then re-wrapped them in electrical tape. Unfortunately, there are some wires that have their insulation frayyed off and exposing bare wire - probably another issue :rolleyes:

    So apparently that white wire from the BOSS is a backup wire. I'm guessing that relay thing is there to cut power to the speakers when in reverse. Interesting.

    Here are those unused harnesses on the left...
    IMG-7151_b9f01b115ed837bd0c0a55baaa2697338edfd202.jpg
    Some of the loose wires run down to the steering wheel converter - but these two end caps I have no idea what they do

    This is crazy, thanks again for the help. glad we finally figured out what the hell that relay does
     
  12. Nov 7, 2022 at 3:31 PM
    #12
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    That grey 5 pin connector with 2 wires, the green w/orange stripe is speed iirc. (Only necessary for OEM head units).


    The other white connector has the steering wheel control wires.


    The white wire probably switches it to display the backup screen and the relay either cuts power.or provides power when it does.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2022
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  13. Nov 7, 2022 at 6:33 PM
    #13
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    If you're cool with your BOSS head unit powering the speakers, this is what I'd buy and what I'd do.
    • Metra 70-8117 amp bypass harness (link) which has a radio harness (see next pic)
    • If you have steering wheel controls and don't have this adapter module already, Axxess ASWC-1 (link)
    • If you have the ASWC-1 already, get this Metra 70-8114 adapter to avoid hacking the factory steering controls harness (link)
    This Metra amp bypass harness gives you two connectors in the pack. A wide one with ~15ft of wire, and a much shorter 4-wire one (see pic of both here). I'm pretty sure that wires up as following:

    upload_2022-11-7_21-8-33.jpg
    So, in a nutshell ... really long ass wire harness routes speakers etc. up to the radio to wire in, the shorty harness feeds 12v constant, 12v ACC, ground, and power antenna/turn on lead. The smaller harness up there is going to plug specifically into the bigger OEM dash harness on the right in your pic, to feed power.

    upload_2022-11-7_21-18-11.jpg
    And with that, you can remove the JBL amp totally, remove the Axxess amp-retention module, that stupid relay, unfugger-up your wiring, and simplify everything.

    It sounds like you're saying you already have the ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter, but I'm not seeing it in your pics. I would absolutely get the Metra adapter (3rd bullet) so you can just plug into your steering wheel control unit (small white connecter on left in that last pic) and you don't need to splice OEM wires, just tie this adapter harness into the ASWC-1 harness outside the vehicle, then plug each end in respectively.

    Instructions for installing, programming etc. on the ASWC-1 are here - I don't think you'll need it.

    If I can be any clearer about this, or you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

    EDIT: And buy some damn TESA tape to re-tape those harness wires!
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2022
  14. Nov 7, 2022 at 6:37 PM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Oh - I'll draw lots of shitty pictures in Microsoft Paint to really break this down stupid-simple showing where everything plugs into, if you want. Just say the word. :rofl:
     
  15. Nov 7, 2022 at 7:28 PM
    #15
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    Wow, that is one shit install the previous owner did. Yikes.
     
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  16. Nov 7, 2022 at 7:38 PM
    #16
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Sad part about it is, PO hacked all those harnesses and jury-rigged all that shit, when the steering control harness is a measly $14 and takes 5 minutes of crimping outside the car to install, they probably spent a good hour hacking all that shit.

    I know the amp bypass + radio harness combo isn't exactly cheap at $64, but still ... $76 to wire the entire stereo up right, that's probably half of what the PO paid for that Axxess amp line level module, which is MSRP $150, and still sells for around $80 today. It's bullshit.

    Seeing shit like this pisses me off. Really motivates me to help people un-fugger their stuff.
     
  17. Nov 8, 2022 at 7:05 AM
    #17
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the links! Ill order these and see where I get.. might take you up on the ms paint pictures :)

    Yeah its pretty annoying coming into something like that. I like making cables tidy... hence my overwhelming desire to just cut everything out and rewire it properly haha

    I know I said it before but thanks again, this is incredibly helpful
     
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  18. Nov 8, 2022 at 7:12 AM
    #18
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    I think Im good with this. How noticeable will the drop in sound quality be? I can probably deal with it for a while until I decide I want to buy an aftermarket amp. From some reading, it sounds like there is an improvement in sound quality when bypassing the amp.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
  19. Nov 8, 2022 at 7:31 AM
    #19
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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  20. Nov 8, 2022 at 7:44 AM
    #20
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    That's probably because scAmazon is notorious for selling counterfeits, they don't scan inventory sent to their warehouses for authenticity, and that means the stock bins can easily have loads of shady stuff landing in them from less-scrupulous vendors. Several members here and on other forums have gotten burned on it.

    Doesn't matter what you're buying, but is super common with auto parts, small engine parts, appliance parts. Usually with major appliances and major electronics you're pretty safe, but I've seen people get grey market electronics off scAmazon. For the full-on counterfeits, the packaging would blow your mind with how authentic things look. You should see some of the unboxing videos online where, like, counterfeit spark plugs are exposed.

    It's probably not going to be the case with something small like those Metra harnesses, the price point is probably too low to warrant it. I just prefer to buy from major vendors and pay a little extra knowing I'll get great support, and legit products.
     
  21. Nov 8, 2022 at 7:45 AM
    #21
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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  22. Nov 8, 2022 at 7:57 AM
    #22
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    This, as with many things these days, is debatable.

    JBL makes excellent equipment. The shop I worked for primarily peddled JBL for mids, highs, amps, and subs, along with JL subs and amps. There's a reason tens or hundreds of thousands of concert venues around the world use JBL equipment at their venues, it's not uncommon to see the orange JBL logo on speakers at concerts, arenas, clubs. Their shit is awesome, great natural-sounding reproduction, authentic without muddiness, crisp highs, thundering lows.

    That said, audio technology has improved considerably in the 20+ years since JBL designed this amp for Toyota, for use in this vehicle. Over that same timeframe, improvements in head unit amplification have happened in that same timeframe. In my case, I had the OEM Fujitsu amp powering my OEM speakers. The Alpine ilx-w650 head unit I installed was easily 20% louder, clearer with the OEM speakers. Then, when I installed my JBL components for mids/highs, it was night and day.

    Will you see better quality sound? Best guess, we know that BOSS head unit isn't necessarily a high-end brand, but with its more-modern technology, it should be at least on-par with the OEM amp. Knowing that amp's age and older tech, there's a solid chance the BOSS head unit will be noticeably better. You won't know until you wire it up, and even then, the end result may be dependent on the ear of the listener.

    The OEM speakers have degraded and speaker tech is better 17-20 years later, too. So if you're still running OEM speakers, there may be some more room to grow here.

    The cool part is, in the event it's not enough for you, you can always repurpose the Metra amp bypass harness - just find a nice, compact aftermarket amp from JL or similar, get a good quality long-reach (or pair) shielded RCA cables. Run the RCAs from the BOSS head unit back to the old amp location as you uninstall the Metra amp bypass, then adapt the wiring to work with the newer, more-modern aftermarket amp. JL has a lot of compact offerings out there that pack a punch --- just know it's not the only option to improve things, it's just the route I think I'd probably go. There are multiple avenues here ...
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
  23. Nov 8, 2022 at 8:45 AM
    #23
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Similar to computers... the tech improves so lower quality today is far beyond the high quality of a few years ago. Thanks for all of the thoughtful responses! Ill probably look into new speakers+amp in a few months. I just ordered new struts, so once this radio is worked out Ill be replacing those.

    Ill post back here once the cables arrive from Amazon!
     
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  24. Nov 19, 2022 at 12:32 PM
    #24
    Kaprice919

    Kaprice919 [OP] New Member

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    Just wanted to say thank you once again! I wired up the bypass and the harness for the steering wheel controls and everything works great. Its a lot simpler behind the radio now without 10000 wires going everywhere
     
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  25. Nov 19, 2022 at 1:17 PM
    #25
    shifty`

    shifty` Cockroach dreams, the human dust of pain

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    Good news, and thanks for updating your post. Lots of people just disappear into the ether after getting advice. :D
     
  26. Nov 19, 2022 at 2:17 PM
    #26
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    Sep 2, 2019
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    #35520
    Messages:
    2,067
    'Yonder
    Vehicle:
    Red-Maroon-Something 05 DC 4.7 4x2
    Jes! Great to hear.
     
  27. Mar 7, 2024 at 4:23 PM
    #27
    Rich L.

    Rich L. New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2022
    Member:
    #79045
    Messages:
    18
    Resurrecting an old thread with a follow-up question:

    I picked up an Android head unit that came with a harness for my non-JBL Tundra. It plugs into the two 20 pin connectors and antenna right in the dash. And it works, sounds good actually but only has front 2-channel sound. The factory amplifier is working as is the aftermarket amp and sub already installed.

    But nothing from the rear speakers so I started looking at the pinout of the connectors. They've got FL+ FL- FR+ FR- outputs of the head unit connected to truck's built-in amp and the RL+ RL- RR+ RR- hanging not connected. In the Toyota wiring diagrams; the 4 wires in that connector are FL RL FR RR. Is this a valid way to get 2-channel sound from a 4-channel amp?

    I understand the option of the Metra harness to bypass the amp, glad that worked for Kaprice. But I was curious about this harness they supplied and surprised at how good it sounds.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2024
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