Factory Fog Light Harness does not match switch?

Ok, so I decided to install fog light on my 2003 SR5. I have the plastic inserts and a corresponding place on the panel for a switch. From my local pull a part lot I picked up a switch and fog relay from what I believed to be a 2003 tundra. I purchased some lamps separately. The lamps plugged into the existing wiring harness and the relay fit as expected. Then I pulled the panel and found that the wiring harness would not mate up to the switch. See the pictures below. I read several forums but could not find an answer to this problem. ,,

My question is...is there another type of switch? do I have to do the turn signal option, where I need to go back and find a replacement turn signal that contains the fog switch?

 

That switch you have is the heated side view mirror switch.

2003-2006 uses a rotating switch on the turn signal stalk. You'll have to take the steering column panels off (easy. Three screws, and patience.) And then swap in a new turn signal stalk. Someone will come along shortly with a picture of one. Maybe even a part number

2000-2002 used a push button in the panel shown in your pictures. This is my fog light button in the image below on my 2002.

 

I have the heated side view mirror switch installed already. The switch I have looks like the one you show in your picture...I am wondering if someone had switched the switches in the one I pulled from the donor car. It was located in the far right slot (which is the one allocated to the heated mirror switch currently on my SR5)

In my pic you can see that the heated switch is installed already...

 

1st link in this reply: https://www.tundras.com/threads/fog-light-install.66878/page-2#post-2479519

Obviously rectangular dash button won't work, but stalk would.

This is one of those cases where I'd probably look back through similar year and cab truck pics to see the order/setup of switches in their dash to know how it was done from the factory that year, and what to expect, fogs on stalk or fogs on dash.

My advice to OP would be to hit the EWD section and pull the EWD for your truck to see if your wiring colors match what should be going to a fog light switch. OR maybe you could figure out which is power and which is ground, throw a 9v battery and jumper to those to see if the fogs light up at all.

If you find wiring is correct, maybe with help from someone like @BubbaW you can figure out what connector WOULD work with that specific switch, pop the pins out of the connector you have, and reinstall into the correct connector in the correct pinout order. I suck at trying to find correct connectors.

 

I have done a little more digging and determined that the middle slot may have been used for a powered back glass mirror? Does anyone know if this might be the case? Mine is a RCLB so I don't have said mirror but I am trying to track down what this connector is used for.

 

I pulled a switch from the junk yard a while back from an 01 And this was the backside (the one with the two wires). Looked like someone wired it up

 

Bingo! That is exactly what I needed.

I did find out from an EWD search that the connector I had planned to use was for a power back glass window, so it is a no-go regardless. Since I have the slot and a relay that came with the fog lights, I will just wire it directly.

Thanks

 

Another item of concern...I seem to be running down my battery quite often. I do know that I can pull out the key in the ACC mode as opposed to the Lock mode of the ignition and that has served as the source before. But, I am pretty sure I pulled the key out correctly last night and this morning...crickets. Is there something I might be missing here. I do have a backup camera installed but it only connects to the rear lights power switch and I actually had it disconnected last night.
I also have a separate relay for aftermarket fog lights, but once again, it should not pull anything once the key is off?

Any advice would help...

 

Get a multimeter, pull your negative battery terminal off and check for amperage draw. Should be low, like 0.05 or less. More than 0.15 or so can bleed a battery overnight, or in a day or two. Mine ended up being the 7 pin trailer plug has some pins bent in towards the middle of the plug in. Think something was touching. I fixed it unknowingly when I unplugged the brake controller and 7 pin power source and assumed it was the brake controller. Next time I needed the 7 pin and I hooked it all back up, the plug wouldn’t go in. I looked in there and all the pins were bent in. Weird. I fixed them and left it all hooked up to see if it would drain the battery again and it never has.

 

Funny you mentioned that because I have been having a difficult time in plugging my adapter into the 7 pin connector to pull a boat??? I will try that tonight.

So the multimeter should be connected to the positive battery (and terminal still connected) and the terminal separated from the negative side?

 

Unhook the negative battery terminal and put one lead on the negative battery post, and the other on the unhooked negative cable terminal. If the draw is high, you can start with items of highest suspicion and unplug the fuse that supplies them.

 

Got it...Thanks

 

Can also hook up ammeter and then pull fuses one at a time to see what is drawing current

 

Don't open the door or turn on the dome lights or anything while hooked up like this. Make sure you switch your probes over to the amp reading setting. Don't go over 10 amps or pop goes the multimeter fuses.

Yes do this. Procedure as described by knabores.

 

Ok...I tried this and found that I am pulling 0.14 mA constant. I pulled all the fuses in the cab and those under the hoos....and no change.

I did have the door open though so would that cab light pull 0.14 mA?

I looked at the plug on the 7 pin connector and no issues there with bending of the pins.

Provided that the door opening is not the contributor, what else might I check?