Factory amp issue.

I'm trying to install a slim amp/sub. This one:

Rockville SS10P 10" 800w Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub,green

$140 Rockville SS10P 10" 800w Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub,green

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTZ35DKY

I spliced into the harness near the factory amp for my inputs and remote wire to the sub. I ran these wires to the rear, for under seat mounting.

The Rockville amp truns on and if I plug my wire for signal into a little home theater speaker (my test bc of my issue...), there is sound; verifying I tapped into the signal wires from the factory amp correctly.

HOWEVER.... if i plug these wires into the Rockville amp high input, as intended, the factory amp goes into safe mode and I only have sound from the center dash speaker... nothing from the doors or anything powered by the factory amp. If I unplug from the Rockville amp, everything in the truck works fine...

Any ideas?

 

Welcome to the forum.

Questions:
I never knew the factory amp had a safe mode.
What exactly is that and how did you know?

All 3 of your dash speakers run off the HU, they don't run thru the OEM amp.
It goes from HU, to side dash, to center dash.
Your side dash speakers should produce high/mid sound if your center produces sound.

Which HU/amp speaker wires did you tap into?
From the HU to the amp, or from the amp to the speakers?
I would have chosen the rear door speakers after the OEM amp to the speakers.
As well the front doors only get mids and lows from the OEM amp, if you tapped into the front doors, that sub/amp may not be getting a good signal to run.

Using the high-level speaker inputs on your sub, you don't need the remote wire.
Make sure the SUB is set to 'auto on' then your amp will turn on when it receives a speaker signal.
Make sure your polarity is correct, you can find that in the wiring diagram (mentioned below).



If you need a wiring diagram to know which wire is which on the OEM amp, you can find it here.

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

This is your rear doors, pay no attention to rear NO 2, that is the tweeter for the crewmax.
Your DC rear speaker should be full range.






If all else fails, get a decent LOC and connect it to the rear speaker outputs.
Then you can use your remote wire and RCA cable low-level inputs.
It may prevent any speaker 'popping' when powering up with speaker-level inputs.

Good luck..

 

I'm assuming it's a safe mode bc it kills the factory amp when my high level input is plugged into my new amp, and works fine if it's unplugged.

I tapped into the front speakers after the amp.

Wondering if I should try pre amp?

Also will have to remove the remote wire to see if it makes any difference. Hopefully my problem...

Thanks for the info.

 

Removing the remote wire might remedy the issue, hard to say. The instructions do say:



Try removing the remote and putting the AUTO ON switch in the ON position.

Also worth checking, when the Rockville is hooked up and kills the factory amp, does the second led on the Rockville illuminate indicating protection mode?



Theoretically tapping into the high level inputs or using a LOC to get low level inputs shouldn't make a difference in functionality (although it could potentially affect sound quality in the way of hum, buzzing, clipping etc.).
The only thing I can think of is like 1lowlife pointed out, verify all of your power and ground connections, remove the remote, set the AUTO ON switch to ON, and verify you've tapped the correct signal wires and have your polarities correct. If you can drop some pictures of how you have everything wired up it might be helpful in troubleshooting.

 

Got it figured!

Removed the remote wire, no difference.

Had the correct wires, correct polarity, hooked the wires to a speaker and they played, but hooked them to the new amp and sub, nothing... used loc for rca... nothing.

Decided to re-wire with the rear speaker pre-amp side to rca without a loc. Did that and it all works perfectly.

No idea why it wasn't working before. But I guess pre amp is the way to go.

Thanks for the input!

 

Glad to hear you got it figured out! I'm wondering if there's protection circuitry in the factory amp and tapping into the signal post amp affected the voltage/amperage enough to trip said circuitry. In any case, rock on!