Engine noise

Good morning Tundra Nation, I recently brought a 2016 sr5 tundra and I noticed this noise coming from the engine area as the truck warms up wondering if anyone had this issue. I’ll leave a link to the video down below.thank you.

 

Pretty sure your link is broken

 

What link would that be Benwales

 

This one?

 

Sorry, https://youtu.be/FUv0vOUG7mE

 

Sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold. Do you hear a ticking noise when you’re driving past a barrier?

 

Never paid to much attention while driving, as the truck warms up that noise comes and goes. When the truck is at it’s operated temps that noise is completely gone. But I’ll definitely look into that when I’m driving

 

Not an exhaust leak.
It’s a faulty timing chain tensioner on the drivers side.
Actually a common issue. I’m dealing with it right now.

 

A lot of our Valve train parts on this engine are operated by oil pressure. I’m assuming your noise goes away instantly with a few extra rpms? You could try a hot oil flush (toyota offers a kit) and bump it up to 5w20 oil.

If the sound still persists the next step, if this is really bothering you, is to open up the engine and inspect timing chain, chain guide, vvti and cam chain tensioner. I haven’t done this on mine yet, for a experienced tech to do this it’s about a 12-14 hour job... but from what I’ve been told 9/10 times it’s the tensioner.

 

Thanks nate, yes it goes away also as the truck warms up it comes and goes until fully warm. Is this kit offered at Toyota dealerships? The noise is more so embarrassing, waking up at 0500 in Kentucky where temperatures are pretty chilly I’m sure my neighbors hate me.

 

If it's the chain tensioners I'd see if the powertrain warranty covers it.

 

This.

unfortunately for me, my truck is at 120k (kilometres) so I couldn’t take it in under warranty

 

It's worth'a shot, toyota has been pretty good to a lot of the members on the board, thy're very proud of the 5.7. Powertrain warranty on 20 is 5 years 60k miles/5 100 km. It never hurts to ask.

 

I've got a 2016 and have the exact same issues. Find it very embarrassing at times. Same thing, loud as hell when the engine is cold but goes away after a mile or two down the road. My mechanic thought it was a heat shield but the noise returned the next day. I just read a reply that mentioned its the timing chain tensioner. I'm glad to finally get a direction on this problem and hopefully the dealership will cover it. I just hit 50k but have been driving with this issue since I hit about 35k.

 

Glad to help! Let us know how it goes at the dealer

 

I'm having a different type of noise. 2017 CMOR 4x4. 70k miles. Like a whirring noise. Don't hear it higher RPMs, just idling.

 

I have a 2010 Tundra 5.7L with 180K and it made that same sound during startups with Mobile1 5W-20 oil. I found out that the tensioner noise is due to a low oil pressure/cold temperatures issue found by changing to a higher flow Mobile1 oil filter and lower viscosity oil from Toyota 0W-20 which they use on all of their new Tundra's with 5.7L. Two years later and 10K more miles with no hearing of that sound of the chain tensioner. Hope this helps someone. God, bless all of you. Hope it works in your case, as it did in mine.

 

So what was the fix? Different oil?

 

The fix was for my Tundra was Synthetic 0W-20 oil from Toyota and Mobile1 oil filter. If this does not work you will need to replace the timing chain and tensioners as soon as possible before engine damage happens.

The links below are for a 2010 Tundra with 5.7L gas engine. Please make sure this works for your model/year/trim.

• Here is a link to the oil filter I used: Mobil1 Oil Filter M1C-453 (autozone.com)
• The 0W-20 oil was purchased directly from Toyota parts department.

May God Bless you with your journey.

 

Thanks, what I did was use heavier oil. It cured he problem and the check engine light went off. Switched to mobile one 5-20. Also when I changed the oil I noticed that the filter had bent over and been a bit crushed. I don't know how that happens as I am careful, but it has happened the last two changes.

 

Does anyone check their PCV valves? I checked mine last week and it was stuck open. I cleaned it with gasoline and was able to get all of the carbon out. I used gasoline because of the plastic would have melted if I had used carb cleaner, because of the acetone. Here is a link to show where the PCV valve is located. 2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 PCV Valve replacement - YouTube

Hope this helps.

 

I will check mine today.

 

Common.
Tried Toyota full syn
Tried Mobile 1 full syn
Tried some of the other tricks you’ll find mentioned on the site.
None worked

Started using this.







Hasn’t done it for close to a 1000 miles.
Wish I would have done this 80,000 miles ago.

 

I just got done changing the timing chains and tensioners and have learned a lot about how these engines operate. I also had the rattle sound before and the Cam tower leak. I used the Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, you can also use the Three Bond 1207B or equivalent for the sealant, this stuff dries very fast 3 min application time and 10-15min torque of all nuts and bolts. I used an Alldata account, to obtain Toyota dealer instruction manuals. I learned during the chain disassembly that the only time it jumps time is if the tensioner is removed or the teeth on the cam gear or drive shaft gear are worn. All of which can be inspected from removing the oil filler cap from the Bank 1 (Driver side engine). Bore scopes are useful to inspect gear ware. I observed that the tensioners are completely reliant on the oil supply for chain vibration dampening. The tensioners have spring force with cam locks that incrementally lock as the chain wares. I found that you can provide more force with your hands than the tensioner spring provides. I think we also have a problem with Bank 1 tensioner more often due to the tensioner mounted location half way down the slipper for the drive shaft chain, resulting in higher force applied on the tensioner. Bank 2 (Passenger side of engine) is mounted at the top end of the slipper. I found out about this because they only have one gasket for the Bank 1 tensioner to increase oil pressure to the tensioner.

Findings after 193,000 miles and 11years of service I found a cracking dry rotted oil supply O-ring from the oil pump to the block. The O-rings for the VVT solenoids were on there way out, they still had some flex left. The injectors O-rings were as hard as rocks and were leaking. The spark plug seals were shot and leaking oil into the spark plug tubes. Just an FYI during spark plug changes check for oil in the spark plug tubes and remove it before removing plugs to stop from a possible hydro lock condition when starting engine later. If you decide to replace the tensioner I recommend replacing gaskets and O-rings also and inspecting everything the dealer manual suggests.

After all of this work the chain rattle is gone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The message below reflects my journey I went through when I was repairing the truck.
“Trust in the Lord with all your heart, and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge Him, and He shall direct your paths .” (Proverbs 3:5)

I hope this helps, God Bless all of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also, thanks for the Amsoil suggestion Hightide. I will try that after I use up the Toyota oil I purchased.

 

My 2020 with 14,000 miles sounded like a diesel. Even after warming up fully, I would go through a drive through and hear the engine noise bounce off the buildings wall. After a 2700 mile trip from Fl to TN I decided to do a oil change since it needed it anyways. The 5.7 originally came with 5w-30 from factory. Also the 5.7 in other parts of the world still come with 5w-30. So I switched. Now the engine sounds normal other than some injector/VVT sounds. Diesel sound is gone. One thing I noticed also was oil pressure. With the 0w-20, factory oil mind you because it has been done at the dealer, the oil pressure at start up and operating temp is lower with the 0w-20 than the 5w-30. Cruising at 2k the needle would be just below the half way mark on the pressure gauge. The top of the needle would touch the bottom of the half way mark on the gauge. Now with 5w-30 at 1100 the needle sits even with the half way mark on the pressure gauge. At 2k it’s above the 1/2 mark. I did some research and I think Toyota is doing a disservice just to meet CAFE standards. He’s a cold start up video. The diesel noise is gone. By the way, I heard my wife’s 2020 Lexus NX300 start up the other day. That thing sounded like it was going to blow up or something. It also uses 0w-20 and my god does that engine make noise on start up.
https://youtu.be/vM-0lqUzEx4