Engine misfire post starter swap

Just swapped the OG starter (made it 345k) with a remanufactured OEM from Toyota. The ol tundy roars with the startup first click but then begins to misfire. Started running smoother when I bleed the fuel line but when parked at idling it misfires until it just about dies then kicks back up. Has died a few times now.
I’m sure removing the fuel injectors had something to do with this but after re-checking to see if they’re lined up in good position and everyone plugged in everything checks out. Thinking it may just need more time to get primed up.
Was considering getting new fuel injectors down the line but might bump it up on the list if need be.
I’d rather play the patient route but i like being able to drive.

 

I'm thinking vacuum leak. New intake gaskets? all lines hooked back up?

 

I would use a reader and check the codes, see what errors are firing

 

Same old intake gaskets, everything’s connected. Unfortunately though all the hoses are quite aged unlike fine wine

 

Recommended to replace the intake gaskets. One time use. Once you crush em down, that's it.

 

Might as well replace the PCV valve on the drivers side valve cover. Gasket is likely toast on it.

 

Word makes sense. Now I’m thinking about swapping those out along with all the crusty vacuum lines.
Anything else you’d recommend before go back in?

 

Did you lightly coat all the injector o-rings with Vasoline before installing them to help them seat without pinching? If not, it's possible that an o-ring was pinched when seating an injector and that could account for the issue you're now having. Any fuel smell or sign of fuel leak at an injector(s)? Typically shows as a dark brown stain at injector seat due to heat.

 

Any reason nobody is suggesting coils in this case? @Splashbrother13 can you scan the codes to see if a cylinder misfire is reported, and also, have you ever changed the coil packs during your truck's 345k miles? If not, I can't imagine they're not cracked, and pulling/reseating them while doing the starter install could've totally caused tube cracks or rubber disintegration.

 

Because the symptoms don't logically point to the coils based on his description of when the running issue occurs. Bad/cracked coils wouldn't malfunction only at idle then smooth out. There would typically also be a "cracking-up" or inability to accelerate smoothly and the issue would be always present. Can't hurt to check them though.

 

Good point. Not looking to make excuses, but I was hungover this AM when I posted that reply. I still feel like garbage almost 12 hours later. Last night was a rough one. I still need to go back through other posts to see what I wrote on here after 8pm, make sure I didn't say anything stupid. Happy to see I wasn't banned for anything (at least not yet)

 

Yeah, just based on the OP's description and a little reading between the lines would lead me to check the fuel delivery system again. The usual suspects: pressure at the rail, bleed-off rate, codes and then go from there.

As you pointed out, with most of these vehicles having very high mileage and age many of the components are brittle and fragile and susceptible to damage and breakage very easily if not handled carefully. I would probably even check the connectors and pins for the injectors as these could have become broken or dislodged from their seats and just getting a poor connection.