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Dual battery

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Delta57, Apr 19, 2024.

  1. Apr 19, 2024 at 12:45 PM
    #1
    Delta57

    Delta57 [OP] New Member

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    Just kinda looking around found some forums and read them but I didn't see any good diy options for a dual battery setup in the hood of the 1st gens without spending hundreds on a bracket...looking for some other options before I go and decide to do the battery box route in the bed of the truck
     
  2. Apr 19, 2024 at 1:01 PM
    #2
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba Black Sneks Matter

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  3. Apr 19, 2024 at 1:03 PM
    #3
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba Black Sneks Matter

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  4. Apr 19, 2024 at 1:07 PM
    #4
    Delta57

    Delta57 [OP] New Member

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  5. Apr 19, 2024 at 1:09 PM
    #5
    Delta57

    Delta57 [OP] New Member

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  6. Apr 19, 2024 at 5:09 PM
    #6
    JEVE615

    JEVE615 Old Yota Enthusiast

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    Excuse my ignorance, but what is the purpose of having two batteries?
     
  7. Apr 19, 2024 at 5:24 PM
    #7
    Delta57

    Delta57 [OP] New Member

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    Extra power to run auxiliary for fridges, winches, ac/heaters whatever without killing your starting battery pretty much necessity for overlanding or you could go solar generator route like jackery but they are pretty pricey too
     
  8. Apr 19, 2024 at 5:30 PM
    #8
    JEVE615

    JEVE615 Old Yota Enthusiast

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    Ahh that makes sense. Right on.
     
  9. Apr 19, 2024 at 9:00 PM
    #9
    Burgmane

    Burgmane New Member

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  10. Apr 19, 2024 at 10:16 PM
    #10
    whodatschrome

    whodatschrome New Member

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    ABS was optional on the 2000-2002 Tundras. If you don't have ABS (or have deleted your ABS), then a second battery can fit where the ABS pump/module would normally have been mounted.
     
    The Black Mamba likes this.
  11. May 9, 2024 at 5:00 PM
    #11
    Sailor95

    Sailor95 New Member

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    Can anyone post a setup of their duals on the passenger side engine bay and what was needed? Or maybe a step by step? Thanks!
     
    evanhmn likes this.
  12. May 12, 2024 at 10:57 AM
    #12
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    I avoid dual battery setups, they always seem to have issues when it’s the worst time.

    I run a goal zero yeti, it’s portable, charges quick with solar or 12v. And if it fails it doesn’t leave you stranded.

    An Odyssey group 31 has a huge reserve capacity. I personally try to keep my battery system simple.
     
    HBTundra and JakeJake like this.
  13. May 12, 2024 at 3:30 PM
    #13
    evanhmn

    evanhmn mmm chicken pot pie

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    Thanks for liking the setup. I've seen some more questions about fitting a battery into the engine bay so thought I'd provide some more pictures. I've also attached a relatively detailed writeup on how I went about setting it all up. I'm no @shifty so excuse me if my writeup is lackluster. Hope this can help someone:

    As far as what you need to do the actual wiring and whatnot, I would read through this article and follow the directions/materials used and go from there. I used the diagram in that writeup and followed it to a tee, so I'm not gonna walk you through what you need to buy and stuff. If you're still confused on what to get, lmk and I can help you out then.

    The hardest part of the whole setup wasn't the wiring at all(I'm pretty novice to electrical work), but rather finding a battery tray and battery that works for you. I opted for an Interstate Deep-Cycle RV/Marine Battery, but that's mainly just because I'm a Costco member and it was a cheap $80 battery. You can research RV batteries to use and determine how much amperage you need. This can be done by just adding up all the power use of the devices you plan on running(fridge, lights, charging station, etc.) and then checking that the battery you'll be using can run those goodies for a decent amount of hours without the truck being turned on. I'd emphasize googling and looking around at how to determine how large of a battery you'll need, as detailing how to do that in writing is challenging for my small brain to do. This is a good article.
    Now for the actual setup of the battery in the engine bay. What I did was disconnect my power steering fluid reservoir and ziptied it to my valve cover to get it out of the way. Make sure it is tied up somewhere and not just dangling. I then arranged my battery tray as tight as I could in the rectangular space, making sure there is enough room for the actual battery to fit, as well as making sure the connectors on the battery don't stop the hood from closing. This is where a tape measure is a vital tool. Then, I drilled 3 holes in a triangular pattern through the tray and through the wheel well, stuck three bolts through, and locknutted those bolts on the other side along with some threadlock for safe keeping. I then dropped my battery in, arranged it how I liked it, and mounted it to the tray. At this point all I had left to do was arrange my power steering and fab up a little metal piece to hold it upright in a good position, and not too close to where any high heat might melt any hoses. All I did to mount the fluid reservoir was cut two tiny triangular pieces of steel, bolted one to the other, and then bolted the whole thing to the battery tray.

    I've had this setup for a few months now and It has served me very well. I wired up a 12V Car charger with an outlet to the battery and ran it into the back of my truckbed where I sleep. I've also put up 4 LED light strips back there too. I've charged my phone and laptop, had those lights running, and even ran a milk frother off it with no issue. The simple to follow wiring diagram gave me assurance I wouldn't kill my main battery, which was the biggest risk of all. I recall my first time charging freely and using the power I was dead set on having to jump myself in the morning, but that has yet to happen, and likely will not ever happen.

    My main "warning" to you or I guess word of advice that I think you'll probably know is that because you're jerry-rigging your own battery tray and setup it's likely gonna be a PITA. I ordered the wrong size tray and isolator and had to return it which extended my project by a few days. I also can't tell you how sore my back was after lifting and setting down that battery trying to test fit everything again and again while kneeling on my radiator and headlight :D Then having to cut off these tiny pieces of metal and drill holes through em to get it all to fit... It was a pain at the time, but like with every project on our trucks, once you've got it finished it's such a good feeling to know you made something and learned something.

    Links to the tray and isolator I used:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DL1GK8N?ie=UTF8&th=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085WRQW72?ie=UTF8

    The other items you need like wiring, cable ends, etc. are all pretty general so just get what's in your budget. I provided you with the tray because I know it fits on my truck, as well as the isolator just because it's something I F'ed up on ordering the first time.

    I'd also keep in mind, at least for me bc I live in CA(not sure of other states or countries), that if you go and buy a second car battery and it doesn't fit you can not return it - so make sure you're a little anal about measuring that battery!

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    IMG_2027.HEIC.jpg
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    IMG_2029.HEIC.jpg
     
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