Mechanics Special 05 DC Refresh

If I were you I would give the mechanic you bought it from some choices, none of which he will like:

Pay for ALL repairs and damages now, and for the next several years OR (no ideal)

Take the truck back and give a full refund (I would demand this one, because what else did he screw up?!) Let him know you no longer feel safe driving the vehicle and want ALL of your money back!!

OR take him to court to accomplish the latter, let him know if you get injured or killed driving this thing in the next few years of ownership you will make sure your family knows he might be responsible due to his incompetent handy work!

I would also fire your "trusted" mechanic if you had him inspect the truck and he missed this!

Sorry OP that you got screwed!!

-T

 

Back when we asked about frame pics, I wish you would have sent them prior to purchase. These are not great. But we’re past all that now. That frame needs cleaning, wire wheeling and rust converter treatment. Whatever he “coated” it with is peeling off everywhere cause paint don’t stick to rust.

 

It looks like a factory tow package hitch, minus the receiver, might have to be fully removed to install an aftermarket hitch.

 

Thanks for the info guys…bumper support is my next order

pulled diff breather today and cleaned it up, was stuck closed reaaaaal bad. Ran a bunch of brake clean through it and it’s moving well now. New part is ordered but threw it on to spin around block

success…2 pin holes now showing clearly on top half of the cover. Pin holes are above the fill, making obvious why it wasn’t leaking while parked. Still no leaks from pinion seal or front gasket seal.

JB Weld project tomorrow afternoon, in front of the TV this afternoon to watch the tide roll

 

Had some help this afternoon from my little man and threw some JB Weld at the pinholes.

Also pulled the power steering breather valve and it had the telltale LKQ pick a part blue paint lol, wonder why that was bad? Replaced with new part and threw some new spring clamps on for good measure.

Will drain and fill the rear diff tomorrow to ensure proper level and throw the new muffler on. Then possibly do the level kit depending how much time I have left.

 

It may take a couple of ignition cycles for the smoke to fully clear at startup. Give it a little time for any oil that made its way up to the intake to clear. These trucks use ATF for power steering fluid, so ... pretty fine stuff.

 

Appreciate the info shifty, so far no smoke and the power steering fluid is remaining level

got tied up with several other things around the house today so was only able to install the muffler. Relatively painless, took me about 2 hours mostly because I always do projects slowly and never lay shit/my tools out properly ahead of time. It’s the DNA Motorsports resonator-back system on Amazon, I think I spent like $175. For less than 200 bucks I’m happy with it.

no leaks and honestly sounds pretty great. If anything it’s almost too quiet, sounds close to stock at idle but has some grunt when you are on the pedal hard. The hangers on the muffler should have been a bit longer and it’s a pretty tight fit up by the upper mount for the rear shock, but there’s about 3/4” of room for movement there.

 

No smoke today on start and PS remaining level. Good news. I also did a drain and fill on the rear diff fluid and I'm glad I did, it was DEFINITELY low. Shouldn't be a problem for a while. 7590 full synthetic in there now all the way up to the fill (about 3.5qts for me).

I spent a couple hours this morning wrestling with driver front suspension and I lost. My intention was to install a standard 2" spacer level and a leveling shim on drivers side to account for ToyoLean. Got my ass handed to me. All bolts came out relatively easily, but absolutely could not for the life of me get the spacer'd strut back in. I loosened all 4 LBJ bolts and disconnected the tie rod, but didn't remove anything else. Big fuckin pry/crowbar barely got the lower part of the shock within 3" of the lower mount, and I was LEANING on it. Had to wave the white flag and removed the level spacer, but left the .5" shim on the tower to account for the lean. Was able to bolt everything back up but still feel like the shim barely did anything to fix the lean.

It's probably for the best because upon removal of the tire it's clear theres a cheap aftermarket strut in there, actually still has a sticker tag on it from 2017. I feel like this is a sign from above to do it right and order shocks/struts for all 4 corners, but if I get 5100s or the like I have no idea how I'm going to get them in the truck. I'm guessing I might need to remove the whole knuckle or something to get the clearance I need? Just don't understand because most of the discussion here and on youtube is that getting a 2" level on this truck one way or another shouldn't be THAT difficult...?

My other problem is this truck is definitely NOT intended to be an offroad machine or anything other than a cheaper project truck for tinkering around with. The idea of dropping upwards of $2K on suspension isn't really the intention here. Hell the whole truck cost me 7 grand, taxes, headaches, and all.

 

common issue getting a lifted length strut back in. My winning technique is a ratchet strap across the lower shock body from the frame in front of and behind to pull it in and hold it. Then prybar for fine tuning position to get the bolt back in.

 

I tried running spring compressors down on my springs and putting them back in but there wasn't enough clearance for me to have the compressors on and get it back in the tower effectively.

Ratchet strap was my next move but I was running out of time and had to make a decision on what to do to get the thing back driveable again lol. I think I'll try that trick, but the decision I'm wrestling with now is to do it with the suspension parts on the truck now or buy 4600s or something similar. Also unsure if the springs on the truck are stock or came with whatever aftermarket shocks are in there now, so worry that I might NEED to buy full coilover struts.

I was so close but so far away today. My fault for trying this in a time crunch. Leaving for a hunt tomorrow and won't be messing with this until next week earliest.

 

This is your problem. Sway bar endlinks need to be disconnected and the lower control arm alignment bolts loose. Both sides in the air.

 

I'd argue just the swaybar links need to be unbolted on one side. I managed my entire lift w/o touching anything on the LCA other than the links.

I think it's pretty silly to try replacing the struts on these trucks without detaching the swaybar. Basically shackling yourself significantly.

 

I misspoke. Did zip off sway bar end link. Did not mess with any LCA alignment bolts. Did not disconnect tie rod end

Truck was pulling right after all the banging around on it yesterday, and frankly was doing so before yesterday too so it's getting an alignment now.

I know this is a useless statement without pics, which I will get some later, but I feel like something is wonky with the driver side suspension regardless. My lean was significant and my UCA on that side is basically either flat level or has an upward rake when the truck is on the ground. Shock has no leaks. IDK. Has me thinking more and more it's the wrong/aftermarket spring or something.

Pics of lean when purchased for reference.

 

Judging by the rust, you may be in for the dreaded seized cam bolts in the lower control arms. Their design basically makes them become one with the lower control arm bushings after it has had time to corrode, and prevents any adjustment at the lower control arm.

If you need to replace them, bite the bullet and get OEM cam bolts. And what ever you do, stay away from SPC cam bolts with the plastic sleeve, they cause more issues than they solve.

 

And also may be in for some fun looking cab mounts. Ask @Jack McCarthy about that one.

 

Just landed at my hotel in LA (lower Alabama) after 400 miles today. Alignment was a huge improvement, smooth sailing the whole way.

Shop said one adjustment point was frozen @OverSquareEng so you nailed it. Shop said it was close enough that it won't effect tire wear but "may want to look in to replacing LCAs at some point"

Not sure about my cab mounts and don't want to look lol, ignorance is bliss for now. After the alignment and this drive this is the first time I've felt good/at peace with the truck...don't want to get comfortable enough to jinx myself though

 

Some work on the Tundra last couple days. I had the factory tow package and bumper reinforcement on my truck, but the actual hitch part was either removed or rotted off before I took ownership. PO had a ball on the bumper. Reinforcement was rusted out and would not have happily towed like that, so I set out to do the similar mod as @shoe07 detailed here https://www.tundras.com/threads/factory-hitch-rusting.93531/

The bumper and reinforcement was a beast to get off. Mounting bolt threads were all gunked up with rust converter paint and who knows what else. Lots of blaster and tedious work with a breaker bar got it off.





New bumper got a $30 rattle can paint and clear job. Not real pretty and clear but from 10' away it looks great. Bolted up reverse lights but ran out of time to wire them, another day.





Spending a lot of time under the truck I continue to be pleasantly surprised how un-horrible the rust situation is. Don't get me wrong, there's definitely some there, but the frame is very solid and intact. Most of the weird flaking in my pictures is a combination of paint and new hampshire dirt/mud caked on all over the place. I bought a $20 Amazon undercarriage pressure washer attachment to clean it out and knocked a bunch of old crud off.

Similar to @shoe07 my $280 replacement ebay bumper came with a reinforcement and replacement arms, covers, and lights already. I ordered this stuff last fall and stupidly ALSO ordered the OEM non tow reinforcement bar from my dealer, so I wound up with two of them. If someone in around the Tampa area needs a reinforcement I will give it to you free of charge. Consider it sunk cost for all the help this forum has given me.

Curt hitch comes in the mail tomorrow, will bolt that up soon.

 

Almost forgot, while the tailgate was off I installed the hopkins easylift. By myself. They aren't kidding when they say get one or two helpers, it was NO JOKE doing it solo. It's not quite as good as the old gas assist shock I had on my 2014 F150, but it's a significant improvement from no assist and well worth the $40 and effort IMO.

$37 Hopkins EASYLIFTB/25 Tailgate Easylift

Easylift bar

If you have another set of hands, you should be able to knock it out in <30 mins.

Also seriously starting to consider a suspension refresh. The leafs are tired and I am going to start asking this truck to tow a bit. The shocks all need to be done and I'm still somewhat convinced I either have a blown out aftermarket spring on my front driver side or its seriously tired OEM. The amount of toyolean I have seems excessive.

 

10' rule is the best rule

 

I think if you laid a couple more coats of clear on that, let it cure, then wetsand and compound it'd look pro as hell. I mean, hell, you may be able to wetsand and compound and make it look pro as-is. Orange peel is almost inevitable with any paint, it's the final steps of cut and polish that make the job.

 

I do plan on running the polisher all over the truck at some point in the next week or two. It needs a good bath in a bad way...will hit the bumper to see if I can get it to shine a bit. Appreciate it

 

Sorry joining this late. Read through everything you've gone through. Glad to see the progress. BTW @shifty` is synthetic not preferred here... at least if LSD? IIRC there is a TSB on using dino with friction modifier at least for some years?

 

Might be able to identify what springs you have as start to diagnosing by referring to this (color codes)...assuming they weren't painted over...

For instance here's OEM 2003 AC 4x4 V8

 

Avoid synthetic with LSD, like the plague. Dino, no friction modifier. Lucas 80w90 or Motul 90w is what others have had 100% success with unless their clutches are already worn.

 

Ok. I knew no synth (seal leak issues too IIRC) but thought modifier was called for with LSD and had been told service center might use this. Have some Super Tech 80-90w GL-5 and a little bottle of the modifier ready to go for next swap (IIRC PF showed ST is good but not trying to start up another oil brand thread.)

 

I and many others have used Lucas 80w90 conventional/dino, and no chatter, no need for modifier. You should experience the same, as long as your clutch packs aren't worn.

I don't shop at O'reillys (nothing but problems), but Auto Zone and Advance both sell the CRC-owned "Trans-X" slip additive/modifier, which another member used when he got chatter even with the correct dino fluid. It works well.

Basically though, I wouldn't use any slip additive unless you get chatter. And rather than using slip additive as a band-aid to the problem, I'd recommend just using kown-working gear oil from the getgo, rather than fixing the shortcomings of your fluid choice.

 

THIS ^^

I repainted a bunch of small spots on my truck, and without the good clear it would’ve looked really bad. This clearcoat works phenomenally:

$40 Moshify Spraymax 2K Clear Coat Aerosol Spray Can - High Gloss for Automotive Car Repair and New Paint Jobs - Two Stage Clear Coat - Bundled Spray Can Trigger

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJYRY3D

(use a respirator!!) Two or three coats, half a half hour of wet sanding, and a few minutes with the polisher made my painting job look extremely pro. I feel like some more clear and a sand/polish might be worth your time.

 

Can't stress this enough with that specific paint, and I'm glad you mentioned it.

It's not your typical rattle can, it's essentially on-par with what your local paint and body shop is shooting.

 

Drivers front looks OEM
Passenger front does NOT look OEM, that is like a 1.5" lift
Maybe that is a standard 2wd left front and 4wd TRD OR right front I am not sure.
Nice work on all the upgrades, have you done any rust converter under the vehicle yet? I used QUROX made by Certified Labs, and i have also used the sprayable rust converter from "the rust store"
Qurox goes on thicker and converts the rust into a hard black shell, they call it a primer. It works absolutely amazingly well. The rust store brand chemical rust converter that is sprayable is thinner and will take a few coats but it also works well, even if you brush it on. I have used it on Jeep frames, metal working projects, ect. When i got my truck i bought one of the small 2 quart hand held pump up sprayers and sprayed the whole frame twice, all suspension parts, everything top to bottom and let it soak. My frame wasnt bad, my rear pumpkin had some scale like yours, but regardless the rust converter is the way to go. Passengers side, above the axle, inside of your frame is a pretty big bare spot. Would be nice to know what the frame brace under the back of the cab looks like. I would be spraying it with rust converter top to bottom and then do a good sealer over it if you havent already.
Side note, looks like you are doing everything in your garage or driveway, the rust converter makes a mess, would recommend going to harbor freight and getting one of their tarps, if you watch you can get their 10x10 tarp on sale sometimes like $9, get two of them and overlap them and park on top of them. This is the cheapest easy way for clean-up after spraying everything on the frame. The drips stick to the concrete and make a mess, the tarp is easy clean-up.

 

But aren't the tape measurements only like .5" difference? @Burgmane can you post pics of the front suspension or did you replace already?