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Door check repair kit warning

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by RUSTYNUTS, May 14, 2022.

  1. May 14, 2022 at 6:59 PM
    #1
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    To all those that have used, or plan to use, the door check repair kit (formerly known as the mutha Russia kit). I bought the kit and used it to repair my failed door checks about a year ago. The kit is awesome and I highly recommend it to anyone even considering it. Such an improvement and one less annoyance of everyday life.
    That being said, my door checks (not door hinges) recently developed a ‘creak’ sound when opening and closing, and was getting progressively worse. Dry graphite lube is ideal and I believe is what the kit came with. I didn't have any, or couldn’t locate it if I did, so I had planned on picking some up. However, before that happened, I had a bad day, was short tempered, and hearing that door creak was too much.
    (Here’s where I fukt up)
    I had a can of PB Blaster all purpose lube in the truck, and soaked the door check down and deep inside quite generously. Immediately after that, the creak turned to a squeak, and the door closed as if I had taken the door check out completely. Zero resistance. Door check- compromised. You ever get so aggravated that you just stop and laugh?
    Anyways, I’m not sure if cleaning them out, then using graphite, would bring them back to life, but the way it swings so freely, I highly doubt it.
    The point of this post is to warn against using any type of lube on the door checks other than dry graphite, especially with the repair kit installed.
    Thankfully, the kit comes with enough bits to do 4 doors, and I only did the front 2. I do have to do the repair again, but at least I don’t have to buy the parts again as well.
    Hope this helps at least one person avoid the same headache
     
  2. May 14, 2022 at 8:37 PM
    #2
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    I'd try spraying them out with carb cleaner before I replaced them completely.

    I have the same kit, and yeah, it was cheap and easy. Probably not available anymore although I have not checked.
     
    NewImprovedRon and RUSTYNUTS[OP] like this.
  3. May 14, 2022 at 10:12 PM
    #3
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    The Dorman part worked out great for me DC rear door.
     
  4. May 14, 2022 at 10:18 PM
    #4
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    As long as you use dry lube they’ll probably last forever. What’s the Dorman part? Just the plastic inserts or the entire door check?
     
  5. May 14, 2022 at 10:41 PM
    #5
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    Dorman Products 924-963 - Its actually a Nissan Altima part per Dorman website. Someone else around here used it and I decided to give it a go as well. The leg that attaches to the cab is shorter so its a matter of taking it apart and replacing it with the leg from the factory check. The door is nice and tight throughout the swing and stays in place in any open position.


    Here is the link that I saw it on.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-dc-daily-driver-2wd-to-4wd-conversion.48447/page-3#post-2379172
     
    bmf4069, hammeron and FrenchToasty like this.
  6. May 16, 2022 at 9:43 AM
    #6
    Teutonics

    Teutonics New Member

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    RUSTYNUTS[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  7. May 16, 2022 at 10:41 AM
    #7
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    Hmm…. I would think that would’ve worked, but the stuff I was talking about usually comes in a tube (similar to loctite thread locker) and ‘poofs’ out in a powder form. I may have found the stuff that came with my kit, when I get back to it, I’ll post a pic. Thanx for the info on the spray, I almost bought a can of that.
    Actually, I’m remembering now that the original line that came with the kit was in a small bottle with a brush, similar to nail polish.
     
  8. May 16, 2022 at 11:34 AM
    #8
    Teutonics

    Teutonics New Member

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    That's what I thought too, so thought the slip plate would be a good substitute. Maybe I didn't put enough, or it was still too wet before assembling/using. I'd spray more, but the problem with that stuff is it goes EVERYWHERE and the overspray is about as hard to get off as black spray paint. :-/ I guess I'll start looking for the paste stuff.
     
    RUSTYNUTS[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  9. May 16, 2022 at 12:57 PM
    #9
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    Okay this is what came with the kit I bought, back when they were still coming from Russia. Evidently it’s PTFE + graphite + MoS2. Not sure what MoS2 is.
    C4E7100D-60D8-46AE-9B16-B4AFDAE7C1F0.jpg
    you are correct that it WAS a paste. I dropped the ball and left it cracked open so it’s all dried out. Not sure what I could even mix into it to bring it back if that were possible.

    6CABAAE0-1697-4450-8E0D-D53B18FC8E1D.jpg This is what I’m left with
     
    Teutonics[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. May 16, 2022 at 1:04 PM
    #10
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    The dry graphite that comes in a small tube and ‘poofs’ out as a dry powder I believe would work just the same as this paste. However, being in paste form with a brush keeps it contained better. More control, less mess. The only time I’ve actually used the poofy pow in the past is for lock and key mechanisms.
    That’s all I’ve got.
     
  11. May 17, 2022 at 6:14 AM
    #11
    Teutonics

    Teutonics New Member

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    Thanks for this, VERY helpful!

    MoS2 = molybdenum disulfide, more commonly referred to as "moly"

    This helps with finding a suitable replacement. I found these two... I think either one should be a good substitute:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8IF1Q/
    https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL33011-Synthetic-Caliper-Grease/dp/B000CPAWOM/
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2022
    RUSTYNUTS[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  12. May 17, 2022 at 6:16 AM
    #12
    Teutonics

    Teutonics New Member

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    I just noticed the first one is supposed to be a six pack... if I do indeed get six, I'll have some to share, LOL!
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2022
  13. May 17, 2022 at 12:35 PM
    #13
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    Brake grease huh? Interesting.
     
  14. Jun 3, 2022 at 3:35 AM
    #14
    Crickle

    Crickle New Member

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    When I was working on my BMW 750 drive shaft splines (motorcycle), the wisdom was to use a moly grease, but only to use the Honda grease.
    It's dark gray, and sticks like crazy. I used my wifes toothbrush, and it worked great!
    I've heard it is very hard to find.
    I got mine at a Honda car dealership.
     
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  15. Jun 3, 2022 at 3:38 AM
    #15
    Crickle

    Crickle New Member

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    When I lube my brakes, I usually use a copper anti-seize from 3M.
     
    RUSTYNUTS[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  16. Jun 3, 2022 at 4:01 AM
    #16
    NHPig

    NHPig Toyota For Life

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    So with this said, can some break down what came in this kit, in addition to the moly? Steps taken? My internet sleuthing has not turn up much, perhaps I have not had enough coffee...
     
  17. Jun 3, 2022 at 6:19 AM
    #17
    Teutonics

    Teutonics New Member

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    There were a couple of different kits. The one that I got had four sets of the plastic replacement "pads" and some spacer shims (I didn't need them). Really not much to it for the price, but if you need it, you need it.

    Steps to replace are to remove the door check/stops, drill out the spot welds to remove old pads, insert new pads, and reinstall back in the truck. The welds aren't necessary since bolting back into the door holds everything together. Pretty simple really.

    One thing on the grease, what came with the kit was designed to dry after application. What I suggested above does not dry, so not a perfect replacement after all. However, I have not been able to find any other similar single-solution product anywhere, so will probably use three different dry lube products in combination: graphite (Slip Plate), PTFE (Dupont dry lube or something similar), and Moly (have yet to find one).
     
    NHPig[QUOTED] and RUSTYNUTS[OP] like this.
  18. Jun 3, 2022 at 1:54 PM
    #18
    RUSTYNUTS

    RUSTYNUTS [OP] Diagnosed: incurable

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    to be continued...
    The decision to use the wife’s toothbrush is amusing. Not the type of product you could clean out of a toothbrush and hope she doesn’t notice.
    “Hun, where’s my toothbrush?”
    “I dunno”
    “Well it’s gone, what happened to it?”
    “I dunno”
    Just make sure to throw that bad boy in the trash before she spots it in the garage, eh?
     
  19. Jun 7, 2022 at 7:48 PM
    #19
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    Reminds me of Speedkar99 on Youtube. Always using his brother's toothbrush or socks or underwear or shirts. LOL

    https://youtu.be/l6WXqdaiuKo
     
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  20. Apr 30, 2023 at 11:07 AM
    #20
    ZFORCE

    ZFORCE New Member

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    2003 Green Tundra Access Cab 2wd
    Hey does anyone have a source for the check strap rebuild kit? My 2003 Rav4 rear door check straps are totally gone end they shut by themselves and it’s totally annoying! I’ve looked everywhere and the only source is OEM Toyota but they want close to $200 for the pair! Thanks!
     
  21. Apr 30, 2023 at 12:51 PM
    #21
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #21
  22. Nov 2, 2023 at 11:49 AM
    #22
    dirtnsmores

    dirtnsmores New Member

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    What door check kit do you guys recommend for the first gen Tundra? Both of my rear doors are closing even on level ground
     
  23. Nov 2, 2023 at 12:03 PM
    #23
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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  24. Feb 3, 2024 at 12:30 PM
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    Balancepnt

    Balancepnt New Member

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    I can design and make (3d print) the plastic wear parts for the door check. I did this for my 2000 Toyota Camry. It works like new now.
    If anyone needs this done for their vehicle (any make/model), let me know. Just take apart your old door check and send me the worn plastic latch(es). I will 3d model and print them for you.

    Attached is a picture of the one I made for the '00 Camry. The left one is the worn latch. The right one is the new one I made, showing the distinct "hump" that sits in the valleys of the door check arm to hold the door open. As you can see, the plastic just wears away over time and leaves a flat surface that no longer "catches" to hold the door open.

    20240124_131051.jpg
     
    Acatlin96 likes this.
  25. Feb 3, 2024 at 12:59 PM
    #25
    shifty`

    shifty` Our private little trip to hell

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    (see signature for truck info)
    What's the catch? (or cost)
     
  26. Feb 3, 2024 at 3:54 PM
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    Balancepnt

    Balancepnt New Member

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    I would just ask you to cover the shipping and cost of filament to print it. I would print 8 pieces so you can fix all 4 doors. Maybe $1 each piece and about $5-7 for shipping, depending on where you live.
     
  27. Feb 3, 2024 at 7:52 PM
    #27
    chunk

    chunk New Member

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    I use Guard Dog moly on my beemer k-75, the Honda moly is good too, although I think they are both discontinued now. Ted Porter at the Beemer shop has a good replacement moly if you ever have a need. Off topic I know, sorry, but I love talking motorcycles, especially older BMWs. Carry on.
     

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