Diff drop

Some of you know I’m having a time with the shop that done my lift. ( I know I should have just done it myself but I don’t have time). Here’s the pics of the diff drop they installed. Driver side sitting good but the pass side is not sitting right. Anyone know what is causing this? Any ideas on how I can correct this?

 

Have you backed it out then retightened it yet? Was it misthreaded? Any debris blocking it? I see small rocks and stuff.

 

The small rocks are probably due to driving around since I had the lift put on. I haven’t had time to check it out myself but I’ve had it back at the shop about 3 times and they keep saying nothings wrong, some sit like that. I know that’s BS. Just asking around to see if anyone has ran into something like this. Personally I think they tried to pull the diff up by the bolt instead of trying jack it back up.

 

You might want to get a second opinion from another shop.

 

Looks like something is slightly bent and not seated properly. Looks like the arm is bent slightly back and to the left. Unless it’s the truck angle.

 

I have an appt with another shop on the 18th. Hoping someone has ran into this before and can give advice. I sure don’t want to have to tear that entire side down

 

Lord I hope not lol I only have 11,000 miles on the truck

 

Is this a crack or extra rubber?

 

Just rubber shavings lol

 

I think it’s funny how they’re telling you, “no no some just sit really stupid like that”! They might as well just tell you, no no it’s supposed to be wrong LMFAO

 

Is that shaving or another closer to the bolt be causing the seat issue? If it causing a gap right there then that could be it. Just mentioning everything possible.

 

My diff drop looked like that when I first installed it. I just pulled it out. Then I had my gears done a few months later and re-installed the drop after. It sat much better. The diff seemed to have more range of motion when unbolted for whatever reason. I’ve since just pulled it out again because my RCI skid wouldnt work with my NFab skid with the drop in.

 

It probably had a better range of motion because the bushing was skewed for so long that it kind of wore it out a little, made it more maliable.

 

Yea, on the first install, it wouldn't really "drop". Seemed like the rear mounts were somehow keeping the whole diff in place. Had to pry a bit to get the spacers in. I'm guessing when the gears were done, undoing the rear mounts restored normal range of motion. @Jebell4747 maybe loosening the rear mounts a bit would help get the front seated?

 

It sounds like the key to getting it done right is loosening all the mounts when installing the diff drop. Then tightening them all up together. Similar to loosening the cam eccentrics on the lower control arm if you’re lifting your truck, then tightening them once the truck is back on the ground so it’s not up in a bind.

 

I think this^^^^ will be your solution, but I would first check the bolts to see if they were tightened all the way. Check out YT for some how-to vids, and note how best to get a wrench above the cross member to hold the nut in place when tightening the bolt!

IF it's not tightened, try that first...without going crazy and stripping it.
(***I'm assuming you went with a quality kit that came with some grade 8/ hardened bolts???)

IF it's already tight, then try to loosen and retighten the mounting bolts.
Get a good jack. Loosen all the mounts. Back the bolts out slightly where the diff spacers are. Loosen the rear mounts, then re-tighten...starting with the bolts with spacers, then back and forth with the rears, evenly.
Good luck!

 

@Jebell4747
Another question and thot....
What size lift do you have?? (sorry if I missed it somewhere).

Just judging by the pics, doesn't seem like anything to high??

IMO, a diff drop is not needed for anything under 3" lift. Even then, if you have OEM suspension, a 3/4" spacer is enough. For 3-5ish" lifts, I'd def recommend doing the drop. Also, with any aftermarket suspension (coilovers, uca's) you might be better using a 1" spacer, which is what it looks like you currently have.

 

What the hell am I looking at?

 

Well welcome to the party. Diff arm not seating properly when tightened fully.

 

Thanks guys. I have another shop that’s going to take a look but it’s going to be the 18th before they can check it. I was going to take off and donut myself but I can’t get off until 27th..

 

That looks like more than 1" to me. I just did this on my '19 Platinum with a 3" lift up front and my 1" spacers sit square on the diff. Can you measure the spacer to see how thick it is? My guess is that if it's thicker it just won't sit square.

 

It’s 1”. Measureb last night. I had the same thought.

 

Well I took off work tomorrow and plan on tearing into it. I’m going to jack it up, loosen the UCA, sway bar/ diff drop and let the truck down and retighten the bolts. I’m almost 100-% positive it’s happening with the spring compresses just a little. I’m open to any advice !

 

Loosen the rear bolt if it doesn’t sit right. I watched a couple videos because I still need to do mine. It’s on hold though because I had back surgery. But a few guys had to loosen that rear bolt to get the spacers to tighten correctly.

 

Thanks!!!! I’m not sure if that’s causing my popping sound coming from the same side but I’m gonna find out that too lol

 

Well I think I found my “popping “ also. The pass diff drop moved about 1/4” with the jack under if before the truck did. Bolt is tight as hell though. I know the bushing will give some but not 1/4”.

 

It doesnt look like it but I still had weight on the truck so the bolt might have been in a bind. I’m about to put it on jack stands and drop the diff. I hope they didn’t because there’s no where to get another bolt around here

 

Guys should there be a large flat washer on the bottom of these diff bolts? I think that’s why the bolts are tight and it’s still sagging. They didn’t put the large flat washers back on and the bushings are being mashed.