Dies on 1st crank, starts on second

My symptoms are, Dies on first crank starts on second. Will also , buck/ hesitate/ sputter when I give it lots of pedal. Otherwise, it runs really good. Idle is fine. I just took it on a 30 mile trip through town and on the freeway. And back home. The bucking and sputtering happened twice …both times while accelerating to get on the freeway. The first Crank Die second crank start is consistent. The code that it is sending me is for MAF. And a few things for my heater. I will send photo of printout as soon as I get home.
This last week I have put in new Spark plugs. New coil overs. New air filter. Re manufactured OEM MAF sensor from Napa. Only one I could find…I also installed a new thermostat. I will be picking up my crankshaft position sensor DENSO from Napa tomorrow. The fuse panel driver side interior looks dry and in good condition. Fuses in the engine compartment look fine. . My ECM behind glove compartment Looks dry and in good condition. Everything else seems to be plugged in and hosed up properly… but I will know more tomorrow when I dig in to the crankshaft position sensor.

a few oddball things that may or may not be related. I found my driver side turn signal wires were either touching metal or getting wet? Not sure which. I noticed this when my blinkers and hazards went out three days ago and had a blown fuse, then immediately blew the new fuse. When I found and taped up the connector completely ..blinkers and hazards work fine no more problems. Now let’s go back two years ago. I hit a deer and pretty much thought. I got lucky with only body damage because engine has ran fine since the collision. I mentioned the deer because it might play into the situation somehow?? I’ve gone back and read through a lot of old posts learned how to link videos and know how to send photos if needed so I figured I’d start a new thread and try to figure this out. The only other things that I could think of would be O2 sensor upstream downstream/replacing a fuel pump? I have no idea which way to turn so a little help would be appreciated

 

Have you scanned the truck for codes?

 

I have. Didn’t even notice the heater issues

 

Btw. Thanks to all you who know this forum in & out… I’m trying to be accurate and post things In The correct place… I noticed I just jumped in a completely inappropriate feed to puke my problem in a panic… I took some time to figure out what’s up here and looks like an amazing tool for guys like me with limited mechanical experience.

 

You get these codes before or after you replaced the MAF? Looks like you needed a new MAF sensor and O2 sensors.

 

Noting post you made in the "What have you done" thread that may or not be related....
Mar 2
found my negative battery terminal was literally fried / corroded completely thru... maybe a clue?
Oh yeah I forgot.. also replaced MAF sensor after it showed a code
Spent lots of $ on OE parts

From the video you posted back on Mar 2, do you feel you got the neg batt terminal fixed properly?
Looking at video you posted, is that short neg cable from battery to body secured and still hooked up ?

As for the O2 sensor and MAF codes(100,135,141,155,161) they are all related in that they deal with open or short in power circuit. I also believe the "heater" problem you mentioned is codes dealing with the O2 sensor heater circuit.

As for the P0101, anytime it is logged, the ECU puts engine control in "Fail Safe" mode(Ignition timing is fixed at 5° BTDC), which is probably your "buck/ hesitate/ sputter"

The power feed for all 5 items(4 O2's and MAF) is the EFI NO. 2 fuse. Even tho you said fuses looked good, I suggest you re-check that EFI NO. 2 fuse located in Engine bay.

If the fuse is indeed good, follow the check below if you have a volt ohm meter(VOM). The pin 3 wire is red in color and middle pin as noted below. Note the check is made with key in IGN ON only, no engine start.



After all is said and done, I suggest you consider an actual OEM MAF sensor, not a NAPA. According to how tests check out, your original MAF may still be good. Clean it with actual CRC MAF cleaner and re-use, especially if the problem all along has been a blown fuse.

 

This just means your O2 sensors have lost their preheat function. Would probably be a good time to go ahead and replace all 4 sensors.

Can you go more in depth on this? Didnt know they remanufactured MAF sensors. Have a pic or a part number or anything?

If you dont have your own code reader this would be a great time to get a hold of one. The basic $20-$30 ones will do.

 

Worth noting, I would be insanely skeptical if all four AFR/O2 sensors had a heater circuit failure simultaneously. It would be super unusual for even two of them to have heater circuit failures at the same time. Three would be wild to me. Four seems unthinkable and points more to a circuit/harness/ground failure.

 

I'd say it's totally possible if the check engine light has been on for years and been totally ignored.

Pretty sure my father in laws 2000 has at least 3 heater codes. Been waiting on a guy to "finish painting it" for the last 3.5 years. Maybe one day I'll see it again.

 

I hear you, but all 4 is weird.

And as Bubba mentions:

It's the most logical solution IMO.

 

Makes sense, I must have glossed over this. That'd be a great starting point

 

As noted in above post, the "heater circuit" of all 4 sensors and the MAF sensor are on same power circuit, which is why all codes, except 101, are related to power circuit issues.

 

The check engine light has been on for approximately 8 months… it started on and off for awhile then just stayed permanently about 6 months ago.. I also ran the truck for a year now with a defective? Wrong thermostat..My water pump went out last year and I took it into a shop who then replaced my water pump timing belt and I remember them putting in a new thermostat. I’d have to dig up the receipt. After the shop visit the truck temperature ran cooler than I remembered. And yes, it took me a whole year to realize that was not good and I needed a new thermostat. So I ran that truck at too low temperature for a whole year.

 

And I did buy a code reader a couple days ago

 

Do you guys think 02 sensors would cause these symptoms? I am supposed to pick up a Denso crankshaft position sensor and replace it today

 

Did you pull this fuse and check it with a multimeter?

 

EFI #2 fuse in Engine Bay..! Got it….

now I mentioned this earlier in the wrong forum. Before I started all this work earlier this week. I went to disconnect the negative battery cable. And I noticed it has been completely burnt through the fairly new post that I put on a while ago. I think I saved the damaged post in case you need to see a photo of it. I also had the dead blinker hazard light situation all at about the same time. My signal light driver side wire was either touching metal or getting blasted by water from the road and tire and just hanging there blowing its fuse. I wrapped it all up with . I also had the dead blinker hazard light situation all at about the same time. My signal light driver side wire was either touching metal or getting blasted by water from the road and tire and just hanging there blowing it’s fuse. I wrapped it all up with electrical tape and no more problems with the signal lights or their fuse

 

Shit man I’m sorry…. Still learning..

 

I did not but I will…. I’ll have to be schooled on a multi meter tho.

 

Okay I’m picking up a decent multi meter…. BUT… found my gramps meter with original box…

 

oooohh....a Radio Shack Micronta, that's definetly an old one. I'd make sure the AA battery is not corroded as fudge.

Check page 4 of that owners manual for DC measurements....pdf copy attached if needed.

• Turn black knob to 25 DCV
• Leads in place where noted
• Should read somewhere between 10 - 15 vdc when measuring for 12vdc

 

So cool… thank you

 

My reading on the relay was 71.3

 

71.3 what

 

Ohms

 

I thought you would like to guess..?

 

Did you test the relay to see if it delivers 12V when triggered?

 

What relay are you speaking of ?
Have you checked to see if the EFI NO. 2 fuse is good ?
Have you checked the MAF sensor following the procedure below ?

 

I have not. But I will and let you know. I did change the crankshaft position sensor…. I had already ordered it and figured… but no real difference… same problem. I’ll sit down and learn more about what you are telling me and definitely get back to you…. I’ve noticed some HORRIBLE fuel mileage…. Damn..!

there isn’t a fuse in EFI #2 spot or am I reading this wrong?