Deaver U748 & Camburg shackles

Just wondering if I did something wrong here or if others found the fit off by about 1/8 on the Camburg shackles to Deaver U748 springs? See pic for reference. Bushings are from Deaver as well, c-clamped them with the metal sleeve…maybe Total Chaos shackles would be a better fit or a different set of bushings? Or some other method to get these to fit? Thanks

 

I been looking into getting these deavers as well, i think when I talked to the shop they said they use total chaos shackles like you said, probably for this reason. It looks like you go the bushings in all the way but maybe you can squeeze together alittle more? If there is grease between the 2 halfs of the bushings its possible they could stop them from compressing in all the way?

 

I ran into the same problem. I was in a rush so I ground the metal pin down a little in length.

 

Deaver recommends TC shackles.

 

The camburg shackles have been known to run a little tight, even for those wanting to run them on OE leafs with OE bushings, it even states that you may have to grind down the serrations on the OE metal sleeve to make it fit. Most people use the T/C,MCM,SDHQ ones as they're 2-piece design, similar to the OE shackles and can easily accommodate the width tolerances.

Also, what are you plans for the brake lines and shock package?

-JS

 

Thanks everyone, making sure I didn't screw up somehow other than lack of knowledge before buying! . Don't want to pinch things or feel like modifying the sleeve and bushings so I went ahead ordered some TC shackles.

 

Elka shocks, front and rear

 

One of the things to be leery of it the increased amount of rear down-travel aka "droop" that comes with modifying the rear (new leafs, oe leafs w/ shackles, oe leafs w/blocks etc, oe w/AAL) is the limited amount of droop that is allowed before things get screwy. We'll skip up travel discussion for now.

Example:

Crudely superimposed images of @5.7TRDProm 's results... blue represent "OE" replacement shock from king and Red represents the newly relocated shock. Both are on the same 748 leaf pack. The delta between the two is significant.





The "OE" bolt in replacement shocks, with the exception IVD RXT shocks (to an extent), image below....



the shocks will "top-out" long before the full suspension droop is achieved, which:
1) limiting performance capability from an articulation perspective
2) more importantly the possibility that the entire unsprung weight (rear axle assembly, wheels/tires and leafs) can try to pull the shaft assembly out of the shock body, causing serious and sometimes catastrophic damage to the shocks themselves. Think of a syringe, when you pull back on the plunger and you go too far and separate the two. that is what we're trying to avoid here.

How to correct this:
different shock package to compensate for this:

Camburg or T/C make a relocation kit to accommodate a longer shock.

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension...a-tundra-07-performance-rear-shock-mount-kit/

or adding limit straps to limit droop from placing tension on the shock when drooped out.

End of unscientific and fragmented rant. Multi-tasking fail on my part. Let me know if you have any questions.

-Jason

 

also watch out brake lines at full droop. You can start with brackets relocation first and if not enough upgrade to longer lines.
Put the truck on a lift and check slowly see where the limits are. I also had to cut the exhaust pipe, the leaf pack was sitting on the pipe at full droop.
(ads bypasses + deavers + TC shackles here)

 

yup, forgot to put that in my word vomit essay…

i mentioned it briefly in post 5. But didn’t carry it down.

lol