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Control Arms overhaul or replace?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by cardiac, Apr 4, 2022.

  1. Apr 4, 2022 at 9:29 AM
    #1
    cardiac

    cardiac [OP] New Member

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    My 2003 SR5 passed the 250K mileage mark and I thought it was time to give it the once over as I bought it when it was 6 months old and I intend to keep it for another 20 years!!
    Just this weekend I put in Bilstein 4600's all round and 2884 springs to level it, 16 inch rims and 265/75/16 Michelin LTX tires (for S Florida highway driving), PowerStop calipers and R1 Concept Rear drum kit and stainless hoses. I put steering bushes and a new sway bar, bushes and linkages in about 1 year ago too.

    So anyhow after all this there is still a bit of a creaking noise coming from the front, I thought it was the old shocks that were ovaled at the bottom, the skid plate is removed, now I am thinking it's the control arm bushings but the TiresPlus mechanic that put the tires on for me and did the alignment couldn't find any play on anything.

    What do you guys think? Is it likely the top or bottom or something else I should be looking for?

    Then the question arises if it is control arms which bushes to use? Off roaders seem to like the Poly ones but for a highway driving I suspect they will make the ride harder so should I got for rubber? The 4600's have hardened up the ride already for me but I am happy with them.

    Regarding the bushes there seems to be a lot of different manufacturers to choose from and some get terrible reviews.
    I have watched the videos and I can probably tackle the pressing out and in of the bushes but would prefer not to have to so I see moog doing complete bottom control arms for $108 each. I could start with these maybe? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274542030481

    Any thoughts will be appreciated.
     
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    #1
  2. Apr 4, 2022 at 10:03 AM
    #2
    Nowhereman

    Nowhereman New Member

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    Real simple to isolate.
    Get some lithium dry lube spray and start squirting all the bushing locations at all suspension points in the front end.
    If it doesn't quiet the squeak, it's not the bushings.
    Take a look at all frame to body mount locations to see if some are loose.
    Just tighten em up if found.
     
  3. Apr 4, 2022 at 10:15 AM
    #3
    cardiac

    cardiac [OP] New Member

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    That sounds a lot easier than pulling bushes from control arms, I will follow this path first - THANK YOU
     
    alb1k likes this.
  4. Apr 5, 2022 at 4:04 PM
    #4
    cardiac

    cardiac [OP] New Member

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    I found the culprit, the 4 bolts that hold the tranny mount to the crossmember were missing!!
    I popped in 2 for now, the creaking is gone.

     
  5. Apr 5, 2022 at 4:49 PM
    #5
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Dang! Didn't see that one coming. Good thing you didn't replace the control arms. Nice catch.
     
    des2mtn, FirstGenVol and FrenchToasty like this.
  6. Apr 5, 2022 at 5:19 PM
    #6
    cardiac

    cardiac [OP] New Member

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    Im going to replace them anyway, there 1/4 million miles on them, I had a close look when I was under her tonight and the rubber looks like crap, all cracked and crumbling.
    I ordered the moog arms for like $90 each. I'll keep the OEMs and rebush them next time.
     
    Darkness, bmf4069 and FrenchToasty like this.
  7. Apr 5, 2022 at 5:41 PM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` Bohannon Bohannon Bohannon Bohannon

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    Hey @cardiac there's actually a TSB for this if your truck is 2WD. More info in my reply (2nd reply in the thread) over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/driveline-clunk-found.104760/

    Simply reinstalling the bolts and/or re-torque isn't seen as a "fix" at Toyota.
     
    abcinv likes this.
  8. Apr 5, 2022 at 7:47 PM
    #8
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    Someone bought the 'updated' TSB crossmember, mount and bolts. Iirc the crossmember (and maybe mount) appeared identical.

    I bought the updated bolts for mine but haven't put them in. The old ones with blue locktite are still there. Mine were all loose originally.
     
    FrenchToasty and shifty`[QUOTED] like this.
  9. Apr 5, 2022 at 7:48 PM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` Bohannon Bohannon Bohannon Bohannon

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    Maybe a naive assessment on my part, but I'm assuming while they may appear the same, there are material differences.

    I have my suspicions whatever the substrate is they used on the original mount has lower longevity, and that was the cause of the full xmember replacement. But w/o seeing with my own eyes....
     
  10. Apr 5, 2022 at 11:02 PM
    #10
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    4600's aren't made for lift I don't think. I'm no suspension expert but that may cause you some issues at some point. You now have a longer spring and you need the shock to be able to travel greater distance.
    Hopefully someone will chime in but I thought for lift/level to only go 5100's.
     
    bmf4069 likes this.
  11. Apr 6, 2022 at 4:11 AM
    #11
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    That is correct.
     
  12. Apr 6, 2022 at 6:15 AM
    #12
    cardiac

    cardiac [OP] New Member

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    Turns out I had put Monroe shocks in the front at some point and those springs are a different diameter at the bottom and would not fit on the 4600's so I had called Josh at 1stgenoffroad.com looking for standard springs which he didnt have but he reckoned the 2884's would be fine that's how I ended up with them.
     
  13. Apr 6, 2022 at 7:09 PM
    #13
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    If it works it works I guess. You're going to severely limit your suspension travel. 5100's would be best. If it suits your needs then I guess roll with it though.
     

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