Coilovers removal...suggestions

Anyone have any recommendations for how to remove coilovers? I have removed the bolts connecting the rotor/caliper assembly to the lower control arm. All that is left is the tie rod end. I have read to either hit the cast knuckle with a hammer that holds the tie rod end or use a tie rod puller. If I understand correctly, once this rotor/caliper assembly is free from the tie rod, I should be able to swing it out of the way to have access to the coilover. I have removed the bolts from the upper and lower parts of the coilover assembly, so all that is holding it in place is the upward pressure the lower control arm is exerting on it. I have also removed the bolt holding the sway bar in place. How much downward pressure will need to be exerted on the lower control arm to relieve the pressure it is pushing on the coilover keeping it in place? Recommendations for how to perform this last step??

 

Mark the current position of and loosen the cam bolt that connects your lower control arm. Support it with a jack and let it lower enough to pop the bottom of the shock out of the connection point.

 

What @Backslider said.

 

Yep...no need to remove the tie rods. The lower control arm needs to be really loose and it will drop down. You can mark the cams as a reference point but it won't matter much since you will need an alignment anyway.

 

Do you have a diagram or picture you could show me which exact bolt you are referencing...first time doing this so want to be completely sure.

 

Still, you'll want to put everything together as close as possible. It's a good idea to drive 20-30 miles after installing new suspension and before getting an alignment to allow it to settle. During that time having a close-to-good alignment will be nice.

 

It's the eccentric/cam bolt that connects the lower "A" arm at the bottom points of the "A"

It has etch marks to show the cam rotation angle.

 

I took the tie rod loose. I did not need to loosen the lower control arm bolts.
Did it this way on both my Tundra and buddy’s Tacoma. No issues.

Have a couple double cheese burgers for lunch and step on the lower control arm it will go down enough to remove old and install the new coil over
https://youtu.be/q4ns2l_LHqQ

 

Are referencing the bolt that i have already removed in the picture?

 

I just did mine over the weekend. We pulled the bolt attaching the UCA, didn't pull the tie rod end bolt. Getting the 3" new coils in was a bit of a bear, but a 6' stick of GRC to lever down the LCA and a guy standing on it while I tapped the lower into the pocket worked pretty well. Just make sure to tie up your axle to the UCA so you don't put too much pressure on the brake lines, etc. And yes, these pictures are of opposite sides, to not confuse anyone, we did not put the UCAs in backwards...

 

No. That's not it. Looks like this one....far right.

 

I'm assuming you're installing a different height coilover? In that case it's best to break the LCA bolts loose so that they can be torqued with the truck back on the ground on it's own weight with the suspension at new static ride height. Other than that just smack that knuckle where the tie rod nut is already loosened at you're there!

When I pull out coilovers for servicing to go back in at same lift height I don't loosen the LCA bolts, but step down on the LCA at the lower ball joint bracket.

 

No.

 

I am doing a direct stock replacement (same height). When you say "smack that knuckle where the tie rod nut is" what are you using to smack with and how hard are you smacking?? Any concern about damaging the cast knuckle? I gave it a few hits with a hammer and nothing happened...

 

No offense but I'm really wondering if you should be messing with suspension components. You can get seriously hurt if you aren't familiar with what you are doing. I'm all for someone learning how to do something on their own but research first. Even people with experience smash the fingers from time to time if something happens or shifts.

 

Your new stock coilover might not be as settled as your old stock BUT probably close enough. Not like you're adding 2-3" of lift. You'll at least want to spray the lower control arm bolts/nuts (the cam shaped adjusters) with PB blaster or other penetrating oil to make sure they can break free for the alignment guy. You will need an alignment after this exchange.

Spray a little PB blaster down the threads then smack the knuckle here on the side, where there's a weird flat spot that looks prime for smacking. I like to leave the nut on a few threads like you have it so that when the tie rod falls out it doesn't make a spectacular swing into your knee cap. Call me a hack but I use a framing hammer on mine. A deadblow just never seems to break them loose like steel on steel.

As mentioned, watch your fingers, torque to spec, check after 100 miles, wrench at your own risk, etc. etc. props for learning!

 

Watch the video I posted earlier it walks you through step by step.

 

Thanks for the advice and recommendations! I will try this out.

 

Also do you happen to have the torque numbers for all these bolts and fasteners? Or know where to find them?

 

Watch the video I linked way back at the beginning it walks you through the process step by step and includes all the fastener sizes and torque specs.
Yes, it is for the Falcon kit so a couple things will be slightly different but not enough to make a difference.

 

I would consult the factory service manual for your year to confirm all torque specs. I've found them online in the past, but they can be hard to find. The video posted by @Black seems like a good resource too although I can't ensure it's 100% correct for your application.

 

There is a thread, but here they are anyway. I would second looking in the factory service manual to confirm.

Tie rod end: 51 ft lbs
Top coilover bolts: 33 ft lbs
Bottom coilover bolt: 144 ft lbs
Upper control arm ball joint: 81 ft lbs
Steering knuckle: 81 ft lbs
Sway bar bolt: 89 ft lbs
Top stabilizer bolt: 111 ft lbs
Lower control arm ball joint attachment(2 bolts): 221 ft lbs
Lower ball joint: 123 ft lbs
Control sensor wire A: 10 ft lbs on UCA
Control sensor wire B: 21 ft lbs on spindle
Sway bar brackets bracket (4 bolts): 51 ft lbs
UCA through bolt for Total Chaos UCA: 173 ft lbs
Total Chaos Uniball: 100 ft lbs

 

Thanks for this...looking to finish it this weekend. Appreciate the help.