Check Eng./ Maint Req'd Lights at the same time . . . need asst

2006 DC w/ only 67K .
Check Engine / Maintenance Required light's came on at the same time.
What's the 'Go-To' for a decent Coder Reader for the Layman. or 'Lame-Man'. LOL
TIA.

 

Hey stranger.
Go to local auto parts store.
They scan for free and give a print out in most cases.
Then focus on getting your own later.

 

Oil change reminder, and probably the gas cap……
Hit me up if your in the south west soon!

 

A lot of members here like the scanguage 2 which also provides mpg in addition to the code along with some custom PIDs from toyota. $

The wireless bluetooth OBD2 adapter is another one where you can run the Torque app on your andriod phone is also popular. $

Myself, I have an Actron CPxxx that can take multiple data points over time and later import it into excel. More $$$

 

Maint reqd comes on every 5k miles as far as I know. Check engine light could be checked at a parts store or just get a basic $20 code reader.

 

Thanks guys.
I re-set the maint-reqd, and that went away . . . it was due.
Check engine still on . . . will report back.
Appreciate the 411.

 

If engine is running fine and gas cap is torqued on, and this came out of the blue, I'm going with something emissions related, O2 or maybe EVAP.

But I've been wrong many times before.

 

Haven't had a chance to get the code(s) yet, will do this afternoon.
Gas cap is tight, and 'Maint Reqd' light still off.
Check Engine light still on.
On a cold start this morning it made an unusual sound for about 5-10 seconds . . . hard to describe , but almost sounded like when those cars with the air suspension start up and you hear that that low-tone air compressor / pump sound. It went away quickly.
Truck runs fine, nothing changed since light(s) came on. Gauges all read normal.
Thanks again and I'll report back soon.

 

Hmmm... SAIP? But most people describe that as more of a whine/whistle than anything. You do have an '06, so it would definitely have SAIP. Truck would otherwise run fine, with noise at startup, when SAIP fires up.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDzNfW7Ti5g

 

DAMNIT !
I'm in CA, so the By-Pass kit is a no-go for Me.
So what's the deal, ? . . . can I run it for a while till I can pony up the dough to have it fixed ? . . . or will it take a crap on me and leave me stranded ?
Thanks for all the help Peeps.

 

Shouldn't leave you stranded. Someone else on here lives in CA and used the bypass, I thought. As long as you don't have visual inspections? The unit just mimics the input/output you'd see w/SAIP running.

 

Even with a visual, I was able to hide it decently, although I’m not sure how well the look over the engine bay

 

What they said. Run it in CA.

 

Interesting . . . thanks for all the good feedback.
Guess I've got some homework to do.
Start by seeing if Hewitt will even sell / ship it to a CA resident.
May have to enlist the help of some of my AZ friends.

 

In California, at least my county, they do a pretty thorough visual inspection. I guess it depends on how easy it is to hide the bypass, and how clued in the inspector is.

 

The guy I've taken my trucks too isn't that thorough, heck I don't even know if he even pops the hood LOL.
If I get dinged, I guess I'll have to pony up the dough, but the bypass kit should get me through for a while, I don't wanna burn out the air pressure sensor(s) in there or deal with the 'Limp Mode' fiasco.
My registrations isn't due till December and hopefully they won't require a smog cert this time around.

 

It's pretty easy to make it look like a factory install. Unless the inspector is specifically looking for the bypass I think they'd have a hard time seeing it.

 

I spoke with the person at Hewitt earlier, he was saying that he's sold these kits to customers who've replaced their entire SAIS system 2 or 3 times, and were fed up with it. It's a shame Toyota didn't fix the problem, or at least upgrade the materials used in the failing parts. Seems like a whole lot of nonsense just to pre-heat the cat for 30 seconds.

 

Also
Slyfox on t4r.org makes a similar kit for cheaper, that’s who my bypass is done thru

 

This will 100% leave you stranded and in limp mode.

Until you fix it, always have a code reader and be prepared to clear the code when it enters limp mode.

My Sequoia has gone into limp mode even with the Hewitt, but that was when it was below freezing out.

I’ll link my thread, one sec.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/stranded-in-san-diego-no-power-aip-help.98061/

 

My plan to pass smog, is make sure the vehicle is warm before taking it in, then Disconnecting the Hewitt. It only uses the SAIP when the engine is cold. I’ll have to test this out in January when it’s do for smog.

 

I think "leave you stranded" is arguable here.

If you find yourself in limp mode, in theory, you should be able to pop the neg cable off for 10 mins, fire up and go, or if you've a reader, clear codes as you mentioned. Delayed by 15 minutes, yes. Stranded, no.

I'm open to being wrong about that with 1GT trucks, but the "poor bastard ECU reset" has served me well with other vehicles in the past.

 

Well, I ordered the Gen 2 kit from Hewitt and it will be here Friday.
Sounds like taking off the front wheels/tires gives a bit more access to install the blocking plates.
I'm a little sketched on removing the glove box as I suck at removing interior trim stuff.
Probably gonna have my buddy come over and make sure I'm tapping into the right wire(s) at the ECM, along with my bad vision, I'm color blind as well, and with my luck I'll splice into the wrong wire and cause even more problems. LOL.
Soldering is no problem, it's the soldering of the RIGHT WIRE that gets me.

 

I haven't watched the video in a while, but I didn't have solder anything or remove the glove box.

 

According to their website installation instructions, the 'Gen 2 Version' requires tapping into the ECM.
It doesn't tie into into the starter relay or MAF like the other model for our Gen 1 trucks.
It's a little different set up where you remove the Air Injection Driver (AID) and replace it with their module.
It also ties into the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) on the passenger side near the intake manifold.
Then you run the loom through the firewall and splice into 3 specific wires at the ECM.

I guess the Gen 2 version emulates the operation of the SAIS and will also show it as 'complete / ready' when on a scanner.

This is all new to me, just been reading up and trying to understand all this SAIS mess a bit more.

 

I hear you, but road trip, no tools, The 405. Can’t get over 25mph at 11pm.

That’s pretty stranded lol.

 

Oh, you're not wrong! My wife liked Death Cab for Cutie way back, before they ditched their lo-fi sound for over-produced polished garbage sound. I always chuckled at how much contempt they have for the freeways over there, with a couple of pretty pointed jabs at the 405 specifically. "Garbage cans comprise the medians of freeways, always creeping ... Even when the population's sleeping..." and so on.

I'm fortunate my time in CA was limited to a 2-year stint in San Diego during the late 80s, and occasional trips to El Segundo before we closed our site there, and SFO/MTV for two sites we've got there. I Uber/Lyft while there. As much as people make fun of ATL traffic, CA is 10x worse to me, and SFO is a skid mark in the Bay Area's trousers.

 

The worst stretch of the 405 in Southern Calif., I think, might be the piece over the Sepulveda pass between the SFV and Westwood. I had a G/F who lived in Westwood and went to UCLA some years ago, I would take a motorcycle to see her so I could split lanes. It's congested pretty much any time or day of the week. Motorcycles and e bikes are a great way to navigate the traffic here.

 

. . . alright, ( Disclaimer 5 beers deep post Hewitt install so don't nail me to the cross over my sloppy re-cap).
Everything went well, the plug & play portion was a no brainer.
Pushing the 3 wires through the firewall was a challenge.
I enlisted help / took the passenger side kick-panel off, and what worked best was to take a semi-rigged piece of stainless steel wire to push in from the motor bay to the inside where I could see it . . . . then we bent the stainless wire, and taped the 3 Hewlitt wires to it and used it as a 'fish tape' .
Worked perfectly.
Pulling the plug on the factory harness was easy, so was slightly scoring the electrical tape to reveal the wires . . . . stripping a 'running section' of the wire is, shall I say 'delicate' at the very least. . . identifying the correct colored wire etc. semi sketchy (especially being color blind) . . . . then soldering into them with the Hewlitt kit was standard.
I put liquid electrical tape after the solder, then electrical tape over that, and bundled it all up.

The block-off plates on mine were fairly easy on the passenger side. I sprayed the connection prior with WD 40 and was able to crack them with some monkeying around. The drivers side was a PITA . . . I ended up taking off the front tire/wheel and removing that rubber curtain to get at it.

Button'd everything up, fired it up, and she lit off like a roman candle without codes !
Took her for a spin and clipped 90 MPH on PCH, just to say 'F-It' !!!!
Hell Yeah !