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Change my plugs today at 60k.

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Joe333x, Oct 6, 2024.

  1. Oct 6, 2024 at 8:10 PM
    #1
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    I didnt want to wait til 120k to change my plugs so I did them today at 60k. My reason for changing them wasn't due to thinking the plugs wouldn't last til 120k, its that they could be hard to get out at 120k. The threads on mine had already started to get some corrosion on them so I'm glad I did. The job wasnt too bad. the driver side plugs are pretty easy to access. The passenger side I just removed the top of the airbox and the intake tube going to the engine. A couple extensions and a ujoint socket adapter can get the job done. I found it easier to not use a spark plug socket to put the plugs back in simply because my plug socket sticks so good that the extension pulls right out of it when the plug is being held in. I used OEM plugs part number 90919-01191 they are Denso SK20HR11. Be sure when buying plugs to buy them from a dealer, online or in person, not from eBay or Amazon, there are a lot of counterfeit plugs out there.

    20241006_184402.jpg
    20241006_184417.jpg
     
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    #1
    Jackstraw, ionnaeus, sonofdad and 7 others like this.
  2. Oct 6, 2024 at 9:47 PM
    #2
    ZappBrannigan

    ZappBrannigan The mind is willing but the flesh is weak

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    I’m surprised they look that good after 60k honestly. Either way, good job.
     
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  3. Oct 6, 2024 at 10:18 PM
    #3
    ZPhilip

    ZPhilip Custom title here

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    Use anti-seize or no?
     
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  4. Oct 6, 2024 at 10:37 PM
    #4
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    I've always gone by the plug manufacturer suggestion of no anti-seize and the plugs from factory didnt have anti-seize on them. That said I kind of wish I did put a little on them after seeing the crud on the threads.
     
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  5. Oct 6, 2024 at 11:07 PM
    #5
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Master Procrastinator

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    I'll use antisieze to reinstall old plugs. Very top of the threads where moisture can reach. Extra confidence since aluminum heads require less patriarchy, and you just give up early.

    also, i use kopperkote & a dap on the top bulb of the sparkplug aint never hurt nothing if your frugal.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2024
  6. Oct 6, 2024 at 11:25 PM
    #6
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    Yeah Im thinking I may pull these new ones out again in maybe 10k, and then apply a light coating. Then check them again in 20k. Definitely would never go 120k without touching them though. Not sure why Toyota specs such long intervals on things, Subaru uses iridium's as well and specs 60k on them. It's probably environment dependent but I think if I waited another 60k the threads would have had some real bad corrosion, especially the front two. The rear two actually had some oil on the threads.

    20241006_200337.jpg
     
  7. Oct 6, 2024 at 11:36 PM
    #7
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Master Procrastinator

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    Oh, they have long maintenance schedules because 'hooligans' dont own toyotas.

    tweak the gap.
     
  8. Oct 6, 2024 at 11:45 PM
    #8
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    I gotta say, I've never adjusted the gap on plugs and have never had an issue. I know it's what you're supposed to though.
     
  9. Oct 7, 2024 at 12:07 AM
    #9
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Master Procrastinator

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    But the system is happiest at the proper gap & plug.
     
  10. Oct 7, 2024 at 12:10 AM
    #10
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    I'm sure you're right but I figure by buying OEM plugs that they should be good to go. Engine starts and runs just fine though.
     
  11. Oct 8, 2024 at 4:33 AM
    #11
    Stumpjumper

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    Have to be careful changing gap on iridium plugs. I use a feeler gauge on iridiums to check gap. If you wait 100k+ to change just do like Ford boys use to do with the 5.4s and soak in penetrating oil overnight.
     
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  12. Oct 8, 2024 at 4:39 AM
    #12
    vtl

    vtl New Member

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    It's not corrosion, it's cooked oil.

    Old plugs look like they can do another 60k miles easily.
     
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  13. Oct 8, 2024 at 4:40 AM
    #13
    vtl

    vtl New Member

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    Hard no. No nothing on spark plugs threads.
     
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  14. Oct 8, 2024 at 4:42 AM
    #14
    vtl

    vtl New Member

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    "kopper" says it has copper, which will be highly electrically corrosive due to dissimilar metals. Copper antiseize on aluminum is the worst thing you can do.
     
  15. Oct 8, 2024 at 4:50 AM
    #15
    BrandonL812

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    Another option of avoiding counterfeit is get them from your local auto parts store. Get the plug park number, not toyota part number, and the people at the part store can bring it out to you. Ngk or denso will both work.
     
  16. Oct 8, 2024 at 5:00 AM
    #16
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Master Procrastinator

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    I never really thought about galvanic corrosion, but its never given me any trouble on lawnmowers or weedwackers. Something i picked up from dad.
     
  17. Oct 8, 2024 at 5:01 AM
    #17
    737fixer

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    Unfortunately, both AutoZone and O'Reilly's have been nailed for this.
     
  18. Oct 8, 2024 at 5:10 AM
    #18
    Stumpjumper

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    At 1 time I thought it was safe to order from Rock Auto but I have heard of people getting counterfeit plugs from them.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2024
  19. Oct 8, 2024 at 5:20 AM
    #19
    vtl

    vtl New Member

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    I had a very bad corrosion that lead to no threads in just two winters. That's how I learned.
     
  20. Oct 8, 2024 at 12:23 PM
    #20
    BrandonL812

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  21. Oct 8, 2024 at 12:38 PM
    #21
    BIGUGLY

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    Regarding the 60k interval on Subaru, it's a forced induction engine. Anything with turbos eats plugs faster. 3.5 Ford also suggests 60k on plugs and 3.4 in tundras is 40 or 45k
     
  22. Oct 8, 2024 at 3:49 PM
    #22
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    My Subarus are not turbos, still 60k intervals.
     
  23. Oct 8, 2024 at 5:08 PM
    #23
    Funnyguy713

    Funnyguy713 I can't get Jiggy with this Sh!t

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    I would never wait 120k to change spark plugs. I also change oil every 3k. I like clean oil and plugs in my truck.:burnrubber:
     
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  24. Oct 13, 2024 at 9:35 PM
    #24
    tundras00

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    Copper coatings were only used in O2 sensors I thought. Not sure why anyone would use any coatings on plugs. I believe they tell you on the warnings not to apply anything also, as it messes up the torque values, or how tight you tighten it.
     
  25. Oct 14, 2024 at 1:52 AM
    #25
    Yodagan

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    I have a 2016 SR5 DC Tundra.
    I am at roughly 62,200 miles.
    I have scheduled to have my transmission fluid and both differentials fluid changed.
    Should I go ahead and have the spark plugs changed?
    I have a 4.6L engine.
     
  26. Oct 14, 2024 at 6:58 AM
    #26
    BIGUGLY

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    I would notChange plugs yet unless your having a issue
     
  27. Oct 14, 2024 at 7:53 AM
    #27
    Joe333x

    Joe333x [OP] Member

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    Totally your call, i do all my own maintenance so it's just a part cost for me, I'm sure they'd hit you with another hour of labor. My plugs were operating just fine I was just worried they would be hard to get out at 120k and I was right about a couple of them that were a little stuck from burnt oil. Ill be sticking with 60k intervals on the plugs, for me thats like 5 years anyways so not a big deal to me.
     
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  28. Oct 16, 2024 at 5:48 AM
    #28
    Gene_in_FL

    Gene_in_FL SUPER genius

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    I did my plugs for the first time at 209K. They still looked brand new.

    I'm at 265K now. I'll probably do them again at 400K just to be extra careful. :)
     
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  29. Nov 3, 2024 at 2:19 PM
    #29
    tjacob95

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    did you notice a big difference in performance? acceleration?? curious if this is what my truck needs seems like mine is a little slow compared to others i have rode in...i have 140k miles on mine and my 0-60 time is in the 9 second range ive been told it should be in the 7 second range...what do you think...
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2024
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  30. Nov 3, 2024 at 2:29 PM
    #30
    d33pt

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    Why not the transfer case fluid too at the same time?
     

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