Bypass Air Injection Switching Vavle

I bypassed the air injection switching valve using the instructions from this thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/air-pump-bypassed.50260/

Doesnt look like it worked. I was getting a P2441 ai valve stuck closed bank 1. Installed the bypass with the relay and resistor but still getting same error. Tested the relay, its fine. Tested to make sure I was getting power from the ST relay from the truck, its working as well. To double check, I closed off the valve in bank 2 with a shut off plate. It threw the error p2443, so I know the truck is still running the air pump on cold starts. Any ideas? I hear if the ecm has been flashed, the bypass won't work...if so...what does flashing the ecm do.

 

Hi. Can you post exactly what parts you used? Pics?

I recently did this about six months ago and no problems since.

 

Bought this relay and resistors from Amazon. I tested both relay and resistor to make sure they weren't defective.

 

Sooo... you may have already seen this thread. But these are the instructions I used. Except, I took apart the fuse box for an Oem look... https://www.tundras.com/threads/aip-bypass-help.26552/

Specifically the link in this post:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/aip-bypass-help.26552/#post-1011124


Here is a picture of my relay...

 

@DangTundra I think you have a 4.7 ohm resistor and need a 4.7K ohm resistor.

The resistor mimics the temperature to trick the computer into thinking the temp is below 41 degrees F. So a 4.7 ohm resistor will be telling it is about 4100 degrees (I really don’t know if that’s right, but it will be way off the chart). A 4.7K ohm will be about 40 degrees.

Here is a chart for reference:
http://www.tcorolla.net/circuit_description-549.html

 

Oh man, good catch! Yep, that is my problem. I was to quick on the trigger when ordering on Amazon. Thanks for the help. I'll report back once I get the correct resistor.

 

@Dalandshark You were right on the money! After using the correct 4.7k ohms resistor, the truck did not run the air injection pump on a cold start. Ambient temperature was about 70 degrees, so it should have ran but didn't. Thanks again for the help.

 

You’re welcome, just want to help as others have done for me!

 

Side note for any one searching this thread in the future....prior to posting this thread for help, I had ordered an OEM air switching valve for a 5.7L tundra...turns out, you take it apart and use the reed valves and the top with the use of a harness extension (in one of my photo, you can see that the orignal harness is to short for bank 1). Reason for the extension is because the 4.7L motor uses the same valve with different brackets. it was a little over $200 for the 5.7L double valves...while it was about $200 per valve for the 4.7L motor. You just have to reuse the base of the old air switching valve.